2015 Mustang Water Pump

[accel]

Sorry to hear, hopefully it didn’t leave you stranded. Good news is a trip to Autozone, $150 bucks, and about four hours takes care of it (did mine this morning).



I suspect Ford and the aftermarket corrected this failure. My 2016 OEM pump had a plastic impeller (grenaded impeller is farthest in below photo); the replacement part is all metal (in photo; nearest):

I bet the metal design will go longer than 30k miles or 5 years. I also used liquid gasket along with the provided real gasket as insurance.



I’m not sure, but I suspect 18+ MYs have the good metal impeller.

Do you know your part #? I can see BR3Z-8501-R sold at AM for $85, but I also see one ending with S repacing onevwith R. .

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[Roadway 5.0]

Do you know your part #? I can see BR3Z-8501-R sold at AM for $85, but I also see one ending with S repacing onevwith R. .

I was in a serious pinch, so I got whatever the local Autozone had in stock. Turns out to be a really nice piece ($139 a bit steep though):

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...-pump/p/duralast-water-pump-us8116/797589_0_0

Duralast Water Pump US8116
Part #US8116
SKU #797589

This looks very similar to the Ford Performance pump I saw on big parts sites.

— Mike

 

[accel]

I was in a serious pinch, so I got whatever the local Autozone had in stock. Turns out to be a really nice piece ($139 a bit steep though):

https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...-pump/p/duralast-water-pump-us8116/797589_0_0

Duralast Water Pump US8116
Part #US8116
SKU #797589

This looks very similar to the Ford Performance pump I saw on big parts sites.

— Mike

I'd rather buy a metal part for more than plastic for less... So yours is not OEM so here comes aftermarket.

Anyone knows if oem is plastic?

 

[jt021119]

Let’s hope so, and good point on the bearing.



I’m sadly just out of the warranty. 5.5yrs and 28.5k miles.

Same here. 6 years and 30K on the dot

 

[accel]

Based on googling I could conclude the issue is not very widespread, but people do get issues with bearings and impellers. I found more info for 150 than a mustang.

I'm close to 30 kmiles and even though I'm under extended warranty - it does not save you from a failure at the freeway with high risk of overheating. I plan on buying aftermarket unit with metal impeller and diy it.

Youtube diy guides are pretty straightforward although I wish they were beter presented and more detailed.

To those who did it I have a question - is there a way to drain coolant with no mess? Also, couldn't find any specific info on how to fill in the coolant afterwards. Anything special?

P.S. f150 guys suggest Gates pumps although it is not clear whether they have metal impellers. I guess I'll get duralast item bought by @Roadway 5.0 unless there will be some more info on various pumps.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Youtube diy guides are pretty straightforward although I wish they were beter presented and more detailed.

Pretty easy install overall, just consider the following:

Have adjustable pliers, needle nose pliers, and a flathead screwdriver to disconnect hoses. Make sure you have plenty of 10mm sockets! An extension (~4”) to reach the pump bolts is helpful. 8mm are also used for the t-stat housing, and a 15mm (I believe) is the belt tensioner bolt size. A shop light is very useful too.

There are only 4 bolts attaching the pump to the block (all four on the impeller housing); no need to remove the three or four similar 10mm bolts in the vicinity, nor detach the thermostat housing while on the car (do this later if you retain the original t-stat and housing).

I did these steps: 1) remove plastic engine cover (pops off with force; no bolts) 2) remove complete air intake from the box to the throttle body for clearance (many hoses to disconnect here); remove coolant overflow tank for clearance; remove upper radiator hose for clearance; remove pump serpentine belt; remove pump pulley (3 x 10mm bolts); remove water pump; swap t-stat and housing from old pump to new pump (unless you get new bits); place new gasket in pump housing along with liquid gasket; install pump to block; install pump pulley; install new belt; reassemble all other bits; pour-in new coolant; test run to temperature; pour-in more coolant; done.

To those who did it I have a question - is there a way to drain coolant with no mess?

My coolant involuntarily dispersed on the road, so I didn’t explore if a drain plug of sorts exists on the radiator or wherever. Worst case you can buy a pump.

Also, couldn't find any specific info on how to fill in the coolant afterwards. Anything special

Fill from the top of the overflow tank. Be sure to run the car to temperature then reinspect. You’ll likely have to put more coolant in once or twice more.

 

[Whitedevil95]

I had a shop do OPG and crank sprocket on my car back when it had 29k miles. They said my water pump was leaking from the weep hole and we replaced it.

 

[accel]

Here's the video on how to drain coolant. Not too bad.

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2017_Ford_Mustang_GT_5.0L_V8/coolant_antifreeze/flush_coolant

At this point the question is - what is the best waterpump? Metal impellel and very good bearing quality?

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Here's the video on how to drain coolant. Not too bad.

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2017_Ford_Mustang_GT_5.0L_V8/coolant_antifreeze/flush_coolant

At this point the question is - what is the best waterpump? Metal impellel and very good bearing quality?

Looking back, I think bearing quality is most important. I suspect my bearing failed and caused the plastic impeller to contact the pump housing, leading to the catastrophic failure.

This said, I think a good preventative maintenance inspection of the bearing (see if it wiggles) can save folks from being stranded on the side of the road.

 

[ice445]

Plastic water pump impellers = cost savings to vehicle manufacturer and = royal PIA to vehicle owners when they don't last past 20k-30k miles.

The metal impeller design should last life of vehicle ownership - until the water pump bearing fails anyhow...

Powertrain Warranty is 5yr/60k, which ever comes first. I think a failed water pump is covered but depending on when you bought your S550 (if original owner), you may be past the 5-year mark.

Composite impellers can actually be superior to metal ones, IF they're made properly. Never have to worry about corrosion with a plastic.

If you don't believe me, I have a practical example. In the Ford Taurus DOHC engine (early Duratec 30) from about 1996 to 2003, they used an early composite impeller that was essentially immortal. They would outlast the car, pretty much guaranteed. 200K plus and you might have to change one because the bearing would be worn out.

 

[Ebm]

My water pump went out at 59k miles. I think that's pretty early. But this isn't just S550 related. Water pump failures have been happening since Gen 1 of the Coyote. Water pumps seem to die fast on all 2011+ Coyotes. Probably the high revving nature of the engine being hard on them.

 

[accel]

Composite impellers can actually be superior to metal ones, IF they're made properly. Never have to worry about corrosion with a plastic.

If you don't believe me, I have a practical example. In the Ford Taurus DOHC engine (early Duratec 30) from about 1996 to 2003, they used an early composite impeller that was essentially immortal. They would outlast the car, pretty much guaranteed. 200K plus and you might have to change one because the bearing would be worn out.

I wonder if composite means lightweight alloy?

Oreily has several pumps with impeller material being mentioned as plastic or composite.

Composite might be a plastic or some sort of alloy. Go figure.

I know bmw had a plastic impeller which was a well known issue and needed to be replaced for a metal one.

 

[accel]

My water pump went out at 59k miles. I think that's pretty early. But this isn't just S550 related. Water pump failures have been happening since Gen 1 of the Coyote. Water pumps seem to die fast on all 2011+ Coyotes. Probably the high revving nature of the engine being hard on them.

I was browsing different pumps and reading reviews. Vast majority of reviewers were f150 guys.

 

[accel]

Looking back, I think bearing quality is most important. I suspect my bearing failed and caused the plastic impeller to contact the pump housing, leading to the catastrophic failure.

This said, I think a good preventative maintenance inspection of the bearing (see if it wiggles) can save folks from being stranded on the side of the road.

Good point. This should be possible with some breaker bar to relieve the belt and then just try the pulley for any play.

 

[ScottsGT]

Mine went out at something like 54K miles and had me waiting on a tow truck and a $100 towing bill. Got 75K on it now, going to just swap it again at 100K for sanity's sake. I commute 100 miles a day. It's an easy swap.

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