2015 GT Oil Pan removal.

Djervin

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I posted this is the DIY section as well, but wanted to also try here. Does anyone know what it takes to remove the oil pan from a 2015 GT? Long story short- I did OPG's over the weekend and actually replaced the entire oil pump with the pump from Boundary. After taking apart my stock pump to look at the gears I realized the o-ring for the pick up tube was still attached the oil pump that was removed. So there is no o-ring on between the pick up tube and pump right now.

I'm thinking it will be easier to just drop the oil pan, remove the (2) bolts from the pick up tube, install the o-ring and reinstall the pan.

Any thought's or advise is appreciated.

 

TGGT

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Not sure about the 15, but the pan on my 19 wasn’t too bad. Had to drop the back of the sub frame a good amount to get it out , but that’s pretty much standard on any newer car. I would definitely do that before pulling the front of the motor apart again. It would also be worth while to just replace the oil pan gasket at the same time
 
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Djervin

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Thanks for the response. I wonder how similar the 2015 would be.... I'm definitely thinking I want to go this route. My car is Procharged with the stage 2 system, so there is additional things that have to come off vs. some of the other power adders.

Thanks for the recommendation on the oil pan gasket. I ordered the opg gasket install kit and it includes the gasket and windage tray (if I can even get the tray in). So I have those parts ready to go.

I'm half considering the Steeda K Member, that way it makes doing this worth it!!
 

TGGT

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I’m also stg 2 Procharger, so I hear you on pulling additional parts to get to the cover. Pulling your pan might be easier though I’m not sure. The 18& up have the pick up built in to the pan so it’s probably a little different but very similar at the same time. Steeda k member would be cool and it would definitely be a great time to do it.
 
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Djervin

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Nice. I love the Procharger. I might start digging into it just to see if I can get lucky enough to reach in there and get to the bolts with the pan dropped a little. Honestly, the pick up tube bolts were kind of a PITA from the front with the pan attached so I kind of think reaching them with the pan slightly dropped might not be too bad compared to going in from the front.
 


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Djervin

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Thanks for the suggestion, I'll look into it!!
 

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Thanks for the response. I wonder how similar the 2015 would be.... I'm definitely thinking I want to go this route. My car is Procharged with the stage 2 system, so there is additional things that have to come off vs. some of the other power adders.

Thanks for the recommendation on the oil pan gasket. I ordered the opg gasket install kit and it includes the gasket and windage tray (if I can even get the tray in). So I have those parts ready to go.

I'm half considering the Steeda K Member, that way it makes doing this worth it!!
Perfect time to install the Steeda kmember! Just takes a few hours and will make your o-ring replacement a breeze.
 

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Thanks for the suggestion, I'll look into it!!
It’s an approximate 6 hour job to drop the pan per the labor guides. Requires a way to keep the engine supported while the subframe is out, so you’d need some engine support brackets to do it safely/right. Keep in mind subframe bolts are supposed to be one time use, though I’m sure most people don’t follow that.
 

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Will post procedure. Nothing else to do currently.
 
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Djervin

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Great information, thank you. After getting under the car to access everything further, does anyone know if you can remove the transmission to get the oil pan out? I could potentially do a clutch instead of a K Member.

I'm just looking for a way to make this worth it. Any way I dice it, it's going to be the most expensive o-ring job....
 

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Tried to be helpful but when I uploaded them it put them all in a random order.
 

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Great information, thank you. After getting under the car to access everything further, does anyone know if you can remove the transmission to get the oil pan out? I could potentially do a clutch instead of a K Member.

I'm just looking for a way to make this worth it. Any way I dice it, it's going to be the most expensive o-ring job....
Removing trans wouldn’t be required but might help with it being out of the way if you were gonna go in there for clutch work at the same time. Otherwise probably not worth the extra work.
 
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Djervin

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Thanks for uploading the pics. Even in random order they're helpful.

My question on the trans would be- can you remove the trans and get the oil pan out without removing the K Member? It looks like that might work, but I'm not sure if you actually have to "drop" the oil pan vs. sliding it backwards.
 

 
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