2015 GT Oil Pan removal.

[TGGT]

Thanks for uploading the pics. Even in random order they're helpful.

My question on the trans would be- can you remove the trans and get the oil pan out without removing the K Member? It looks like that might work, but I'm not sure if you actually have to "drop" the oil pan vs. sliding it backwards.

Definitely not. Also it’s much easier to drop the sub frame. It doesn’t have to come all the way out but the rear portion does have to hang quite a bit. Also as previously mentioned you will need a engine support brace.

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[zero_chance]

Thanks for uploading the pics. Even in random order they're helpful.

My question on the trans would be- can you remove the trans and get the oil pan out without removing the K Member? It looks like that might work, but I'm not sure if you actually have to "drop" the oil pan vs. sliding it backwards.

Has to drop down below the pickup tube at least. Whether you can lower it enough in the back to access the pickup and then be good... honestly don’t know.

 

[Djervin]

Thanks for the input. Very much appreciated. If anyone else can come up with anything, please let me know. Otherwise I'll post up what I decide to do and how it goes.

 

[sigintel]

Thanks for the input. Very much appreciated. If anyone else can come up with anything, please let me know. Otherwise I'll post up what I decide to do and how it goes.

Hope this helps.
I put harbor freight 5x7 moving blanks over each fender first.
soft cedar 2x2 screwed into 4x4 or 6x6 pieces
(dont try and lift engine too far or risk busting bell housing or block flanges).
lay a 2x9 or 2x12 across that at an angle with drivers side forward.
I used hardware store long eye bolts with 3x3" backing plates:
Drill hole above front left head hoist hole cyl 1 ish location?
Drill hole above psgr side firewall rear head lift point.
The greased long eyebolt go up thru 2x12.
load plates doubled up w grease between and a greased washer and nut.
Chains from eye bolt to block mount bolts.
Found metric block mounting bolts at hardware store too (sry cant remember thread pitch)
Tighten eye bolt nuts to suck the eye (and motor) upwards.
You can drop sub frame then (undo motor mounts first lol)
I used another set of chains to take some load from the sub frame if it dropped too far and in case my geto rig failed.
Nothing difficult or expensive. Rigs still in the garage if you need it in Austin.
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/media/img_1927.17469/

 

[Djervin]

Thanks for the info!! Looks like a good value engineered solution.

For you guys taking the route of supporting the engine and only letting the subframe down enough to access the oil pan- did you have to disconnect any of the steering or suspension parts? I'm guessing not, but figured I'd ask.

 

[sigintel]

Its one bolt to disconnect the steering so I did. It avoids tweaking any of the collapsible sections.
lol "value".. Id say outright impatient to wait for $$ fancy tools.

 

[SheepDog]

Great information, thank you. After getting under the car to access everything further, does anyone know if you can remove the transmission to get the oil pan out? I could potentially do a clutch instead of a K Member.

I'm just looking for a way to make this worth it. Any way I dice it, it's going to be the most expensive o-ring job....

I just had my transmission out a few weeks ago, and I don't think you're going to be able to get the pan down low enough to clear the pickup tube without lowering the subframe. (even with the trans out). Dropping the subframe a few inches is easier than removing the transmission.

 

[DAVECS1]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ag-racing-k-member.114790/page-5#post-2506217

 

[TGGT]

Thanks for the info!! Looks like a good value engineered solution.

For you guys taking the route of supporting the engine and only letting the subframe down enough to access the oil pan- did you have to disconnect any of the steering or suspension parts? I'm guessing not, but figured I'd ask.

Definitely disconnect the steering shaft. Just make sure not to move the steering wheel. If you can put a ratchet strap around it so it doesn’t accidentally get moved

 

[Djervin]

Thanks again for everyone's advice. I dropped the front sub frame about 4" or so in the rear after removing all the fasteners but leaving the sub frame in place and was able to remove the oil pan. I ended up making an engine support out of 4x4's which worked very well. I used one jack to support the trans, one jack to support the sub frame and two jack stands near the forward most mounting points right under the radiator/ A/C condenser. This worked perfectly. It was a little tight under the car, but I felt this was the safest way to do this myself.

So the OPG's are done!! Put about ~150 miles on the car yesterday shifting at 7,500 all day long. Fuel system is sitting in the garage ready to go in. I'll be going to E85 and from 11 lbs. to 13 lbs next (stage 2 Procharger).

Thanks again!!

 

[Djervin]

Pics in case anyone is interested:

 

[TGGT]

Looks good man! Glad to hear you got it handled. Enjoy the car

 

[sigintel]

Hell yea Op!
Lol, I came across some gear to post pics but OP already got er done.
Below images from when I changed to GT350 pump n pan on the 2015.
Found the metric bolts w one still in bag w thread note.
The bolt hangers are fixe rap rings climbing gear.
On the cheap eye bolts I used, I doubled up the nuts to spread the load out across more threads to avoid a loaded stripped nut (nasty).
I loosened the engine mount retainer bolt each side to lightly lift engine about 1”, but you can prolly just drop the member without raising engine and get enough clearance.
I also used climbing hangers to the four bolt holes in the valley fore/aft when mounting a load balancer on picker/hoist for motor swaps.

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