You don't need to keep it under 7000. We've got 30k on one of our test cars and 20k on the other, both have massive abuse, near rent a car status lol and no issues. Shelby tracks most of there cars, never an issue. We have thousands of customers running, no issues. Roush also revs to the same rpm, no issues.
I wouldn't offer something that I wouldn't run on my own car and we wouldn't offer a warranty if we felt poorly about it.
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No problem, just want you to enjoy it to the max, in fact with flight control you can go to 7800 as we did further testing and feel this is safe for racing applications. I would keep daily drivers at 7500 but if you go to the track, take it to 7800.
11-14's were more problematic, but the 15+ doesn't have an issue. Now if your going to build a race car, built motor, then it's no question a good choice but it's just not needed for daily drivers and stock engines.
We have well over 1000 of them out there running, not one failure that we are aware of. Including many race versions.
Also passed durability testing at 200+mph during the calibration phase. If it passes through the testing we put on these and it passed Roush/Ford Racing durability testing at same RPM, I'm confident that it will not be an issue for DD.
You're thinking of the timing chain sprocket. That one is supposedly smaller for 15+The stock ones may absolutely never ever break. But it only takes ONE failure to destroy the engine. I know there were a decent amount of failures in the 11-14's. And although I have never personally physically compared the 11-14 gears to the 15+ gears.. my understanding is that the 15+ gears have less substance to them. That is just what I have "heard" tho. And is based 0% on my own personal knowledge.
Thank you for the clarification sir!You're thinking of the timing chain sprocket. That one is supposedly smaller for 15+
TruthIn the end I think we are all still saying the same thing. It is not a "need" per'say... but it's certainly not a bad idea. Different vendors and different members have differing opinions. Beefcake tends to do them. As they said.. "if you have the $$ and means, not a bad idea". I think those are the perfect words for the situation. While I 100% have full faith in Whipple SC (Dustin) and the advice he gives.. he isn't going to replace my engine if I have an OPG failure. Just sayin.
There is a specific 2015 procedure.
Follow this and you will be fine. I had the same issue when I tried the old whiteout method. Just follow this to a "T". Pun intended.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?p=953063#post953063
Rod bolts? Valve train? I really don't know internal to the engine. Some of these 1500rwhp glory runs get you thinking what is next. Those are on corn though.If the OPG is replaced, what is next to go?