2015 EcoBoost Engine Replacement

[UnluckiestDriver]

Was driving the other night, heard my turbo blow off, then a loud crack, then what sounded like something dragging on the ground, and then my engine shut off completely and wouldnt turn on.

My guy hasnt taken ithe engine out yet, but says after his first run of initial tests that its most likely Im gonna need to replace the engine.

Anybody have any experience in that regard? Advice, pricing, timing, engine recommendations? Would love to hear experiences

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[Cobra Jet]

What is his findings in his initial tests??

I mean, if it was catastrophic engine failure as you experienced and a rod came through the pan or block, it needs an engine.

Is it at a Ford dealer or an independent shop?

You have 2 options:
Buy used
Buy New

If buying used, yes you can find inexpensive deals on some low mileage engines but with limited warranties (or none). This site seems to have some used units, but I don’t know anything mkre than what is seen in the link

Prestige Mustang is located in GA and is well known for years for being a Mustang specific salvage facility - you can try them:
https://prestigemustang.com/

Delk Performance is also another well known facility for salvage Mustang parts for many years:
http://www.delkperformance.com/Salvage.html

Car-Part is another reliable salvage source and you can select by state:
https://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm

Midway Mustang is another well known and reliable source: https://midwaymustang.com/

Another member was looking here:
https://enginespro.com/store/ford/m...0f5f9d36fa2829a1bacf11ac9c&prod=EC259436885KP

—————

If buying new, you can get a complete long block with a good length of warranty. I don’t know how accurate the pricing is, but here’s a brand new Ford long block supposedly:
https://www.autozone.com/powertrain...ng-block-engine-fr3z6006f/707530_956844_11266

Then you have to figure in labor if you’re not able to do the job yourself, which could be maybe another $1k-$2k depending on shop rates and other necessary supplies, parts, fluids, taxes etc.

 

[UnluckiestDriver]

What is his findings in his initial tests??

I mean, if it was catastrophic engine failure as you experienced and a rod came through the pan or block, it needs an engine.

Is it at a Ford dealer or an independent shop?

You have 2 options:
Buy used
Buy New

If buying used, yes you can find inexpensive deals on some low mileage engines but with limited warranties (or none). This site seems to have some used units, but I don’t know anything mkre than what is seen in the link

Prestige Mustang is located in GA and is well known for years for being a Mustang specific salvage facility - you can try them:
https://prestigemustang.com/

Delk Performance is also another well known facility for salvage Mustang parts for many years:
http://www.delkperformance.com/Salvage.html

Car-Part is another reliable salvage source and you can select by state:
https://www.car-part.com/mobile/index.htm

Midway Mustang is another well known and reliable source: https://midwaymustang.com/

Another member was looking here:
https://enginespro.com/store/ford/m...0f5f9d36fa2829a1bacf11ac9c&prod=EC259436885KP

—————

If buying new, you can get a complete long block with a good length of warranty. I don’t know how accurate the pricing is, but here’s a brand new Ford long block supposedly:
https://www.autozone.com/powertrain...ng-block-engine-fr3z6006f/707530_956844_11266

Then you have to figure in labor if you’re not able to do the job yourself, which could be maybe another $1k-$2k depending on shop rates and other necessary supplies, parts, fluids, taxes etc.

He said the word "catastrophic" pretty early on in our conversation, everything else was like a blur after that. Thabks for these sites, I'll be sure to check them out!

 

[ORRadtech]

I'd be curious to know some particulars on the car.
Model year?
Milage?
Any mods?
Diligent on routine maintenance?

Since my EB is my first turbo car I've been a little concerned about its longevity and have thought about what I would do. I've decided that I'll go with a used engine and do the swap myself. I've already set aside a fair amount of money as insurance in case...
Maybe nothing will happen and I can use that cash for a new model in a few years.

 

[UnluckiestDriver]

I'd be curious to know some particulars on the car.
Model year?
Milage?
Any mods?
Diligent on routine maintenance?

Since my EB is my first turbo car I've been a little concerned about its longevity and have thought about what I would do. I've decided that I'll go with a used engine and do the swap myself. I've already set aside a fair amount of money as insurance in case...
Maybe nothing will happen and I can use that cash for a new model in a few years.

Yeah mine's a 2015 that I bought used with about 47k miles and it had an MMR air intake kit and was tuned up a bit. Thats probably the genesis of my problem was not doing enough background on how it was tuned before I got it.

Anyway, put on about 6k miles on it since I bought it ~6 months ago, and then this happened. I had just gotten it serviced and threw on some new brakes too -- but no idea how well maintained it was before I bought it.

Definitely enjoyed some fun with her, some revving here and there, some hard accelerations but i wasnt pushing the redline or anything. Will probably take it a little easier now though. :/

 

[ORRadtech]

Mine is an '18 with right at 66k now. Completely stock but I can't say that it hasn't seen redline a time or 3... Still runs like a top though and I do have cash put back in case.
Good luck with yours, ut sucks that you are going through this but my guess is it's well worth repairing.

 

[NoVaGT]

Yeah mine's a 2015 that I bought used with about 47k miles and it had an MMR air intake kit and was tuned up a bit. Thats probably the genesis of my problem was not doing enough background on how it was tuned before I got it.

Anyway, put on about 6k miles on it since I bought it ~6 months ago, and then this happened. I had just gotten it serviced and threw on some new brakes too -- but no idea how well maintained it was before I bought it.

Definitely enjoyed some fun with her, some revving here and there, some hard accelerations but i wasnt pushing the redline or anything. Will probably take it a little easier now though. :/

What gasoline were you using? What octane?

 

[FreePenguin]

Question
I see a ton of mint 18 engines w 11k miles for sale
No 17’s much.

Can I drop 18 into 17 no issues?

If my current engine has fp, do I just make sure to keep current pcm etc hooked up or is there anything needed changing with a new engine drop in

 

[ORRadtech]

Question
I see a ton of mint 18 engines w 11k miles for sale
No 17’s much.

Can I drop 18 into 17 no issues?

If my current engine has fp, do I just make sure to keep current pcm etc hooked up or is there anything needed changing with a new engine drop in

Good question, I'd be interested in the answers as well.
I do know something changed with the '18 + EB because there was a HP bump and it went to the A10 as well. A physical change to how the engine bolts up seems unlikely to me but I could see computer/software changes.

 

[FreePenguin]

Good question, I'd be interested in the answers as well.
I do know something changed with the '18 + EB because there was a HP bump and it went to the A10 as well. A physical change to how the engine bolts up seems unlikely to me but I could see computer/software changes.

But if you retain all the ecm pcm stuff off 17. It shouldn’t know any difference in blocks. I’d think

 

[ORRadtech]

But if you retain all the ecm pcm stuff off 17. It shouldn’t know any difference in blocks. I’d think

Right, I agree it shouldn't but that extra 10 or so HP comes from somewhere and I don't know where. If it's just a software/tune thing it shouldn't matter at all but if it's a hardware thing like heads, turbos, etc then would the '17 ecm know to take advantage of that or maybe run poorly because of the difference? IDK. Hoping someone might.

 

[FreePenguin]

Right, I agree it shouldn't but that extra 10 or so HP comes from somewhere and I don't know where. If it's just a software/tune thing it shouldn't matter at all but if it's a hardware thing like heads, turbos, etc then would the '17 ecm know to take advantage of that or maybe run poorly because of the difference? IDK. Hoping someone might.

It’s the tune, so if we use our ecm stuff on 17 it would put down thev17 numbers

Or my ford tune numbers.

I think 15-17 eb stock is 18 psi
18-20 stock is 20

Ford perf 15-21 is 22 psi
Ford hpp is 22 psi

 

[speedfrk]

I would not assume you can use the electronics off the 15-17 on 18 and newer. A dealer can tell you if the part # are interchangeable but I wouldn't assume it...

 

[FreePenguin]

It’s the same engine
Same connections
Same clips

 

[BTDUBS]

Having been in the VW and Mini world, I can say that tunes absolutely can and sometimes do cause premature turbocharger failure. Usually it just results in a new turbo, but if the impeller or impeller shaft get sucked into the engine, it can cause a catastrophic failure. Usually it isn't just the tune, but the way it was driven too. Whenever you are taking the engine outside of factory spec, issues become more frequent.

That said, I have had turbo engines go 100k+ miles without needing more than a rebuilding of the turbo, when they fail at high miles, it usually isn't catastrophic, just a slow decline in boost.

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