18+ GT Performance Tune Pac

[NeedForGreen]

Fueling is not changed with the tune over stock, they both run the same exact lambda. The formula is stoich (14.08) * lambda, so at full throttle you should be in the mid to high 11s AFR.

Have you logged it throughout a WOT run to see that it doesn't go into power enrich? It takes a bit of time to get into it, it's not instant and it's only at full throttle eg. 90%. If you're not quite at full throttle, it won't go into power enrich and you'll see near stoich values.

Also during cruise it will fluctuate more, 15.1 is nothing to be concerned about. But if you're WOT at high rpm and it doesn't get into the 12s or less then you have some issues. Although at that point you would throw lean codes and/or other sensor codes like MAF or WB etc.

Good information. I'll have to run some more tests tomorrow. How do I log it with the procal4? I haven't touched it much since install. I figure if its not throwing codes I guess I shouldn't worry much. Just odd seeing different number than I usually do.

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[EFI]

How do I log it with the procal4?

There's an option to log in the menu, I don't use it much since I have HPTuners but I did see it in there.

You can also just watch the gauge in the dash.

 

[NeedForGreen]

There's an option to log in the menu, I don't use it much since I have HPTuners but I did see it in there.

You can also just watch the gauge in the dash.

Went out today and lowest it goes is 13:1 on wot. Before I saw like 12's, but not high 11's ever. I noticed sometimes when letting off the gas instead of going up to 20 it drops to low 12's. I'm taking it in Friday for an oil change. I'll let them know about everything. I'm noticing some power loss.

 

[EFI]

I noticed sometimes when letting off the gas instead of going up to 20 it drops to low 12's.

That's completely normal, it goes into fuel shutoff mode when you coast, then as it comes back on it tends to go rich before settling back at stoich.

The 13.1 is an issue, make sure your throttle opens all the way. It could be getting stuck and you think you're WOT but the bad throttle could not be opening all the way. And check your O2 sensors.

 

[NeedForGreen]

That's completely normal, it goes into fuel shutoff mode when you coast, then as it comes back on it tends to go rich before settling back at stoich.

The 13.1 is an issue, make sure your throttle opens all the way. It could be getting stuck and you think you're WOT but the bad throttle could not be opening all the way. And check your O2 sensors.

I've honestly never seen it do that before. Its always shot up to 20 when letting off the gas then back to normal. Never dropped when letting off the gas. I have been questioning the throttle body itself. I noticed after starting the car the other day the rpms stayed instead of dropping some until I tapped the gas. I'll see if I can get anywhere Friday. Highly doubt it, but worth a shot.

 

[NeedForGreen]

Just a quick update. Had my car looked at today. They ran diagnostics and checked some stuff over 2 and a half hours. Found nothing. So basically run the car until a code pops up or worse. They did document everything single thing I mentioned.

 

[LevittownFordParts]

Sorry to hear this. Did they do a smoke test to check for vacuum leaks?

- Benny

 

[NeedForGreen]

Sorry to hear this. Did they do a smoke test to check for vacuum leaks?

- Benny

I believe they did. My vaccum gauges don't show any hints at leaks. I honestly think the throttle body itself is the issue, but I'll have to buy a new one to see. I did clean it. No difference. They are slightly over $200 from what I see and would hate to throw that money away if it isnt, but at this point I'm going to have to work down the line. I tried to see if Ford Performance sells them at a discount since I already have the kit. No one got back to me. I dont think they pulled any spark plugs or fuel injectors out so I might do that too. 02 sensors were good to go as is the MAF. No exhaust leaks either.

 

[Beetlejuice]

Is the inlet tube on this pac the same exact ones that were used in the 2017 GT 350s or are there minor differences? Looks exactly the same to me, but curious.

 

[LevittownFordParts]

I believe they did. My vaccum gauges don't show any hints at leaks. I honestly think the throttle body itself is the issue, but I'll have to buy a new one to see. I did clean it. No difference. They are slightly over $200 from what I see and would hate to throw that money away if it isnt, but at this point I'm going to have to work down the line. I tried to see if Ford Performance sells them at a discount since I already have the kit. No one got back to me. I dont think they pulled any spark plugs or fuel injectors out so I might do that too. 02 sensors were good to go as is the MAF. No exhaust leaks either.

I think you need to log the TB TPS to ensure its operating throughout the full sweep then go from there. I am sorry but I am not sure if the pro cal can do this or not, If it cant there are other ways using a universal OBDII dongle and free app.

- Benny

 

[NeedForGreen]

I think you need to log the TB TPS to ensure its operating throughout the full sweep then go from there. I am sorry but I am not sure if the pro cal can do this or not, If it cant there are other ways using a universal OBDII dongle and free app.

- Benny

Benny, I sent you a pm.

 

[Seanuf99]

I have been struggling with whether to buy this or not, and the reason being is the Ford dealers keep telling me that unless I buy if from them directly, they won't do any warranty work on it. Basically if this causes an issue with the car, they are saying I would need to pay in full for all repairs and then submit a claim to where I purchased it from . FP seems to disagree with that when I contact them.

I was wondering if anyone had any issues with warranty repairs on this? If I buy it from Levittown and have it installed by private ASE shop-- Total expense is about $1400 ($1067 parts and $325 labor) . If I have the dealer do it, all in I am just over $2k ($1315 part and $450-600 labor+tax).

 

[NeedForGreen]

I have been struggling with whether to buy this or not, and the reason being is the Ford dealers keep telling me that unless I buy if from them directly, they won't do any warranty work on it. Basically if this causes an issue with the car, they are saying I would need to pay in full for all repairs and then submit a claim to where I purchased it from . FP seems to disagree with that when I contact them.

I was wondering if anyone had any issues with warranty repairs on this? If I buy it from Levittown and have it installed by private ASE shop-- Total expense is about $1400 ($1067 parts and $325 labor) . If I have the dealer do it, all in I am just over $2k ($1315 part and $450-600 labor+tax).

Your dealership is 100% wrong. Ford Performance gives you a 3 year 36k warranty on the kit/parts and anything else is still covered under Ford's warranty. As long as you do have it installed by an ASE mechanic you're covered. If they refuse work at anytime I would put up a huge stink or simply go to another dealership. You can print out the install/waranty terms from Ford Performance and show them. Honestly they are already BS'ing you so I wouldn't even bother with them. I've taking my car in for warranty work and havent had any issues because I have the calibration on it. Your dealership is simply trying to get you to buy it from them for profit.

 

[Seanuf99]

Mr. Green, or is it Mr. ForGreen? I appreciate the reply-- it is helping to tip me in to the 'go for it' side of the scale.

 

[Superspirit]

Well, since I don't trust dealers or other shops. I had several emails with ford performance. I went and renewed 2 expired ase certifications and installed it myself. Ford performance wouldn't accept my expired ase master status(i'm retired) so I renewed 2 and installed it and registered with ford performance. As @NeedForGreen stated. Your dealer is lying!

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