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Looks like you are on the Westcoast, maybe even near Pat Bay on the island from the pictures. I am in Sidney. Wicked set up. If my investment comes through I could come knocking. Ha, I see BC plates and I know exactly where you took those pics. Funny I have never seen your car on the road...

Personally I don't care for the McLeod dual clutch. That said, if you are only street use with occasional "spririted" driving, the RST should be good. I really liked the light pedal feel. For me, it couldn't take the thrashing of a road course. Excedy Mach 500 is in my car now and I have...

Me too. Must just be luck of the draw.

Curious what RPM you shift at on the track? On average I guess.

I am looking to get rid of my 15 GT that has been great both on the street and the road courses. I need more get up and go. Always wanted a GT350, as they just sound awesome passing me under WOT on the straights. Of course now they are no longer in production. Still kicking myself for not...

Somewhere on here that was asked and the answer seemed to come back no, they are not compatible. Doesn't surprise me.

Stock clutch is crap in the 15-17. Mine lost it at a high RPM shift at only 20k KMS on it. At that point of the clutch's life, it had no track days and only spirited street use. I didn't even do any hard burnouts, didn't want to roast my tires. Well actually it had one lap on a track, at its...

I've said it on here several times that the RST is no good for track use and people all say "you can't drive a standard". PFFF, what ever. Excedy Mach 500 with lightened billet steel flywheel and haven't looked back. I've beat the crap out of the clutch on the track and zero issues.

Yes, limp mode but only on the track. Not going to dealer, not under warranty. They will never figure it out. I can hear them now "unable to recreate the issue".

I swapped TB and it made no difference.

Crazy. Makes sense though.

I get this same code and fail safe mode when on the track, driving me nuts. I have a Bamma tune and I have the limiter set at 7400. Maybe I need to lower the redline? Always seemed to kick in on a down shift with a throttle blip and the car in a very slight drift. Usually going from 4th to...

I still can't understand how a clutch replacement could affect the crank trigger or what ever it is that goes wonky. I miss old school!

You won't do any damage with the wrench light. The crank relearn is pretty strange, you need to be at temp and hold the revs to like 4000 for a while. Mine was misfiring and throwing codes. I had my clutch replaced while on a road trip and had my tuner with me so I did the crank relearn...

Yup, need to do crank relearn, happened to me too.

I was thinking that could be it. No check engine light though, I would have thought the O2 sensors would pick up on that.

Bringing back an old thread. My Corsa sport exhaust when new had a higher pitch sound to it. Years later and several hot track days it is way different. Louder, deeper and more raspy sound. It is 97db at the local track, borderline getting kicked off due to volume. So there is no doubt...

Been there done that. Separates the men from the boys!

To add to my last post. I would snug up bolts and then jiggle the trans up and down and side to side and I bet the bolt can be easily snugged up more and then repeat.

I would suggest if you are up to the dowels and the transmission is square to the block use bolts to evenly pull it in. How difficult was it to remove? If the bolts get tight at all I would stop and remove to look over. It doesn't take much torque on a bolt to get a lot of force.