I notched the strut tower hole instead of using hole saw (many pics)

[GTP]

Although I had on hand the Steeda Strut Tower Hole Saw, I instead decided to cut in a notch just sufficient to clear the strut shaft. This turned out to be more work than using the hole saw instead. But I like how it looks.

First check was with loose plates for any clearance issues under the shock tower. NPF

Mockup shown for loose, uninstalled camber plates. M14-2.0 bolt and nut purchased as aid to simulate the strut shaft and to locate center of the notch. M10-1.5 plain hex nuts used for convenience over Nyloc nuts.

Plate secured to tower, adjusted to positive camber limit. Note the bolt is a bit outboard of the hole center. I measured +0.6° camber from OEM (at tower hole center).

Plate adjusted to negative until bolt touches the tower hole.

Marking profile of notch.

Using Dremel cutoff wheel to remove some of the notch.

Breaking out the little triangle piece.

Holding the Dremel tool cutoff wheel at an angle to effectively remove more material and with a round profile.

5/8” round file for smoothing out the notch.

All seems well with this result.

I use a 10mm deep socket on a nutdriver handle to change camber. This photo shows that the notch clears the nutdriver. However, the car is jacked up and the wheels straight ahead.

Once the car is lowered and steering operated lock-to-lock, I discovered that the strut shaft wanders around a larger area than was provided by this initial notch size.

Ultimately, I had to re-mark with the car on the ground and steering operated lock-to-lock to determine a slightly different notch center and size. Much more filing and checking ensued. This is when I reconsidered the option of the hole saw.

Final result: smooth and painted notch, properly located and sized. <2 photos>

Old drawing circle template helped with marking. <photo >

Up next: Additional information unique to Steeda camber plates

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[mavisky]

I suppose this works for plates like the Steeda plates that are camber adjustable only.

 

[Dallas J]

Small cut for if you're only doing small mods. That works. But drilling a bigger opening has no downside and is needed for accessing camber plate adjustment.
I didnt buy a kit anywhere, just bought a 2 7/8 hole saw off amazon and 3d printed an adapter to align the hole and saw. Still need to buy some touchup paint to protect the exposed metal.

 

[mavisky]

Small cut for if you're only doing small mods. That works. But drilling a bigger opening has no downside and is needed for accessing camber plate adjustment.
I didnt buy a kit anywhere, just bought a 2 7/8 hole saw off amazon and 3d printed an adapter to align the hole and saw. Still need to buy some touchup paint to protect the exposed metal.

Same. 3D printed alignment tool works great and the singular larger hole looks less "aftermarket" and takes far less effort than the notch.

 

[GTP]

I have learned that the true purpose of my life is to serve as a warning to others.

 

[mavisky]

You said yourself you had the tools on hand to do it correctly already, but decided not to.

What are your alignment settings? Is your caster the same from left to right? That was one of the reasons I ditched the Steeda plates, there was no way to set the caster the same from left to right with their camber only plates.

 

[VictorH]

Another vote for round-hole approach. It's probably less labor intensive than notching too.

 

[Mach 307]

OP I think your idea looks cool and you executed very well. Seeing others that cut the entire thing larger, I wonder why Ford would have not just done that on cars that come with the factory camber plates? (350R, Mach 1 HP)

 

[Brigadir]

In case of having access to the plate bolts you might just bent the allen wrench:

 

[GTP]

OP I think your idea looks cool and you executed very well. Seeing others that cut the entire thing larger, I wonder why Ford would have not just done that on cars that come with the factory camber plates? (350R, Mach 1 HP)

Thanks.

The last thing Ford wants to change at the factory is the main unibody. They can change all sorts of other things, but they all basically install onto the stock unibody.

Imagine this photo without the doors, front fenders, or hood.

 

[Dallas J]

OP I think your idea looks cool and you executed very well. Seeing others that cut the entire thing larger, I wonder why Ford would have not just done that on cars that come with the factory camber plates? (350R, Mach 1 HP)

In engineering sometimes inconsequential areas dont have much effort in thought. Needed a hole, added a hole big enough for the need.

 

[WItoTX]

GTP, did you cut it big enough to accommodate the figure 8 that strut bolt moves in through turns?

Looks really good!

 

[GTP]

GTP, did you cut it big enough to accommodate the figure 8 that strut bolt moves in through turns?

Looks really good!

Hopefully. We shall see.

I realized that the notch was not large enough once I put the car on the ground and steered lock-to-lock. So I have simulated full steering and full suspension droop but not suspension compression.

 

[jay_larold]

Small cut for if you're only doing small mods. That works. But drilling a bigger opening has no downside and is needed for accessing camber plate adjustment.
I didnt buy a kit anywhere, just bought a 2 7/8 hole saw off amazon and 3d printed an adapter to align the hole and saw. Still need to buy some touchup paint to protect the exposed metal.

Since this is something I'll eventually get around to: Any chance you have a pic of your 3d printed adapter? Trying to visualize how it would be used/secured.

 

[Dallas J]

Since this is something I'll eventually get around to: Any chance you have a pic of your 3d printed adapter? Trying to visualize how it would be used/secured.

Just a super simple model, uploaded the STL for it here. This was fit to this hole saw,

amazon.com/dp/B0CG92PLX2

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