SCCA CAM-C Thread

[CobaltFilly]

Look at the strut top, from above. It might be maxxed in the sense that it will hit because the strut hole has not been opened up.

drivers side

Passenger side

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[WItoTX]

That's where I'd expect it to be. I think you need to find a better shop, or loosen the bolts yourself, max out the camber, then tighten up and have someone adjust toe. Front and rear, especially if you have a lift.

 

[CobaltFilly]

That's where I'd expect it to be. I think you need to find a better shop, or loosen the bolts yourself, max out the camber, then tighten up and have someone adjust toe. Front and rear, especially if you have a lift.

What are your thoughts on the bolt areas? From the pic it looks like there might have been a little drilling in the bolt hole, but I don't know for sure and will have to take it apart or ask the performance shop I am traveling to tomorrow.

The original aligners couldn't have hurt anything correct?


I tend to be a bit of a worry wart as this build is my baby.

 

[kz]

What are your thoughts on the bolt areas? From the pic it looks like there might have been a little drilling in the bolt hole, but I don't know for sure and will have to take it apart or ask the performance shop I am traveling to tomorrow.

The original aligners couldn't have hurt anything correct?


I tend to be a bit of a worry wart as this build is my baby.

He likely slotted the strut hole because this is what Ford's manual says to do for camber adjustment. Don't take these bolts apart because you're going to mess up alignment (not much probably).

Your plates have some room for more negative camber. Probably at least a degree. For reference, with maxed out Steeda plates I have -3.5 front camber.

 

[CobaltFilly]

He likely slotted the strut hole because this is what Ford's manual says to do for camber adjustment. Don't take these bolts apart because you're going to mess up alignment (not much probably).

Your plates have some room for more negative camber. Probably at least a degree. For reference, with maxed out Steeda plates I have -3.5 front camber.

My list of mods are in my box below, I should be able to hit the -2.8 easily right?

 

[CobaltFilly]

He likely slotted the strut hole because this is what Ford's manual says to do for camber adjustment. Don't take these bolts apart because you're going to mess up alignment (not much probably).

Your plates have some room for more negative camber. Probably at least a degree. For reference, with maxed out Steeda plates I have -3.5 front camber.

Thanks for easing my worry!

 

[kz]

My list of mods are in my box below, I should be able to hit the -2.8 easily right?

The mods in your sig don't really have anything to do with alignment but yes - -2.8 with Steeda Plates should be doable. However - as TeeLew pointed out - you sort of wasted money on that alignment you just had done.

 

[CobaltFilly]

The mods in your sig don't really have anything to do with alignment but yes - -2.8 with Steeda Plates should be doable. However - as TeeLew pointed out - you sort of wasted money on that alignment you just had done.

Yup.

Lessons learned, not returning there. I appreciate your time!

 

[CobaltFilly]

Gentlemen, I am pleased to inform you the operation was a success. We have wheely big wheels now.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Gentlemen, I am pleased to inform you the operation was a success. We have wheely big wheels now.

Step 1 complete, wheels mounted. Step 2 - learn to drive the wheels off.

 

[CobaltFilly]

Step 1 complete, wheels mounted. Step 2 - learn to drive the wheels off.

Yessir!

 

[CobaltFilly]

That's where I'd expect it to be. I think you need to find a better shop, or loosen the bolts yourself, max out the camber, then tighten up and have someone adjust toe. Front and rear, especially if you have a lift.

Upon your recommendation found a GREAT professional shop nearby who took a full half hour of their time to explain many things to me and their history with some REAL race cars. They are going to be taking care of the Cobalt Filly next week with some good camber to help these thicks last long on track!

@NightmareMoon Thanks for all the advice these are godly. Getting 6-10 events worth of seat time in this year and I am going to daily the 19x11s (only about 3 miles a day to my work) for a bit to get a feel for them. Cali is finally sunny and above 55*.

 

[kz]

I've ended up doing DriveAutoX event mostly because it was on our local lot 15 minutes away from my house and because of work travel I'll miss some of my local regular events.
It's $150 but no work, 12ish runs on Saturday, 6ish run on Sunday and best 8 (best sat + best sun counts) in class (their own classing) goes to shootout.

I treated that as expensive T&T since I completely failed at all my winter plans (daily session with iRacing, building reasonable chassis mounted splitter - only bought a Milwaukee jigsaw - that's how much I've done), swapping rear springs to softer ones - which I had for 4 months and which are very easy to change since they're coilover ones and few other things. No alignment since August last year.

I signed up on Thursday, dragged last year's Yoks I dumped in the basement (meant to bag them but of course was too lazy) out, changed oil, put back on the trunk with wing and off I went.

Ended up winning the entire thing, including the shootout - which is interesting. Playoff style bracket, cars line up at the opposite sides of the course (which is modified into a loop), first one back to the start wins. No timing, cone hit is an elimination.

Video below of one of the runs - against an upcoming Nats west course designer, he already said there will no be slalom on it (last year's course had 168 cone slalom basically)

Overall a pretty decent event, courses were simple but not straighforward and left line choice and options to figure out (all slaloms were optional and one of the was on a curve).
Unfortunately had no in-car video since I didn't even think about taking my GoPro or Solostorm (which would have been useful with that many runs), neither I took tire blankets (morning temps were in the low 40s and Yoks work great when cold but need at least a bit of heat / warmth to work)

 

[CobaltFilly]

Alright getting that track alginment done today by PROFESSIONALS per your recommendations.

this car is amazing now on these new tires. Like a new ballgame.

I am planning on doing brake fluid and a coolant flush next as both are very dirty.
Suggestions for street/track brake fluid? I heard ATE 200 from someone but figured I would ask the pros here.

Countdown to track day #1: 14 days
Countdown to CAMC #3: 1 month-ish

 

[mavisky]

You won't need anything major for autocross. If your brakes are getting overheated in autocross you're probably doing something wrong or I need to come to your region to experience some of these crazy courses.

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