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About to set my car on fire... a finger in the right direction would be very appreciated.

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BreckinHardin

BreckinHardin

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Gotcha. You’d see that in a lack of phaser response in detailed logging. I think at least some of these folks are having different and varied, but related issues.
Yeah man. My phasers work fine until high rpm.. then they slowlly creep down to 0 for desired and actual angle and then it defaults to 0. Im missing around 100 whp due to these issues.
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HKusp

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My timing on the passenger side exhaust cam was apparently off by a tooth. We followed the procedure outlined by Alldata I started the car afterwards an it was quieter and sounded more harmonious if that makes sense. Before the car sounded angry and when I would let off the gas, it would crackle a bunch. I let it idle for about 20 mins then drove it only about a mile and a half because we finished around 11:30pm last night and it was raining. No crackling and it seemd smoother. We did the work at a friend of @HAVOC_5.0 's house and he (Havoc) lives 1.5 miles away. I didn't want to drive it home in the rain, having just had the supercharger, half the fuel system, and all the coolant lines off the car. The idea of being on fire, 20+ miles away from home, on the side of the road, in the rain after midnight, didn't appeal to me. I must be getting older and wiser...lol. So I left it at his house last night. I'll run and grab it tomorrow am and take it for a shakedown run and report back.

Below is a picture of where the timing mark was versus where it should have been.

20240929_131334.jpg
 

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SheepDog

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My timing on the passenger side exhaust cam was apparently off by a tooth. We followed the procedure outlined by Alldata I started the car afterwards an it was quieter and sounded more harmonious if that makes sense. Before the car sounded angry and when I would let off the gas, it would crackle a bunch. I let it idle for about 20 mins then drove it only about a mile and a half because we finished around 11:30pm last night and it was raining. No crackling and it seemd smoother. We did the work at a friend of @HAVOC_5.0 's house and he (Havoc) lives 1.5 miles away. I didn't want to drive it home in the rain, having just had the supercharger, half the fuel system, and all the coolant lines off the car. The idea of being on fire, 20+ miles away from home, on the side of the road, in the rain after midnight, didn't appeal to me. I must be getting older and wiser...lol. So I left it at his house last night. I'll run and grab it tomorrow am and take it for a shakedown run and report back.

Below is a picture of where the timing mark was versus where it should have been.

20240929_131334.jpg
Any time you need the Ford shop manual procedures, diagrams, etc. just hit me up. Back when I was a tech, we used to call AllData - "No Data". Many discrepancies can be found there.
 

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HKusp

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Any time you need the Ford shop manual procedures, diagrams, etc. just hit me up. Back when I was a tech, we used to call AllData - "No Data". Many discrepancies can be found there.
Thank you, brutha!! I appreciate it.
 

baevid

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So @andrewtac ended up being a broken timing chain and @HKusp was most likely a from being a tooth off?
 

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andrewtac

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So @andrewtac ended up being a broken timing chain and @HKusp was most likely a from being a tooth off?
That only explains the permeant zero, not the high rpm zero. Hopefully back together soon and will continue the hunt.
 

HKusp

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So @andrewtac ended up being a broken timing chain and @HKusp was most likely a from being a tooth off?
We THINK my P0016 was from being a tooth off. I cleared the code after re-timing the car. So far it has only idled for about 20 minutes and been driven for less than 2 miles. I am about to go pick it up and drive it home today, which is 22 miles. I will take it to my office today as well which is 17 miles each way. Hopefully P0016 does not return.

The original issue of P0394 and P0390 was from the drivers side cam solenoid which had a TSB on it for 2018's and early 2019's. Since doing that TSB, those 2 codes haven't been back.
 

HKusp

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I now have a P0017 Crankshaft Position -Camshaft Position Correlation Back 1 Sensor B. So Now it's the same basic code but different sensor....
 

WildHorse

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You aligned the cams in a unfavorable manner.
Like I said ...

Now the other one needs to be done, and for the love of all that's good, follow the factory procedure, double / quadruple check, and it'll be right as rain.
 

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baevid

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at the very least I think we've found the cause of the bus like clattering at idle speeds
Is that a bad tensioner or what's going on?
 

raptor17GT

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Is that a bad tensioner or what's going on?
We believe a bad tensioner causing the loud clattering at idle and the cam timing p0024 error. I feel the OPs pain and really want to torch this blessed thing of mine but it is not in my garage it's in and it's too heavy to push out to the parking lot to then set fire to it
 

engineermike

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at the very least I think we've found the cause of the bus like clattering at idle speeds

I have a freshly built, un-primed coyote with all new tensioners in my shop. The secondary tensioners compress easily like the first one in your video.
 

K4fxd

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I have a freshly built, un-primed coyote with all new tensioners in my shop. The secondary tensioners compress easily like the first one in your video.
Is there a check valve to slow the leakage at low oil volumes?
 

raptor17GT

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I have a freshly built, un-primed coyote with all new tensioners in my shop. The secondary tensioners compress easily like the first one in your video.
I understand how a fresh engine would do this but mine is 45k used though had been sitting for a while. Would oil drain from these tensioners if the car was left sitting for 4wks?
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