315/30/19 Front Fitment Question

[luc]

Yoi said that before, but a lot of guys with GTs put 305s on 11s and run square setups. Its not even hard. You just need camber plates and a ~26 offset. Theres more space down there if you go looking for it.

camber plates do two things, they move the strut inboard giving you more total space and they tilt the wheel which helps the outside tuck under the fender. Camber bolts are not the same thing. Those give you the tilt but not the extra space. The rest is just getting the right offset, which is well documented and tested for 305s.

Classic and easy fitment
305 square with the same wheels all around to rotate, camber plate, 1” front spacer and ford racing hubs with extended studs

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[JAJ]

Bs, the brand or model of car is irrelevant to the correct/best tire width for a given wheel size… and 315 on a 10.5 is far to be the optimum combination for handling
So a bunch of useful posts that are relevant regardless of what you drive
Now obviously if the op is more interested in look than maximum handling, what is optimal is pretty much irrelevant

The tire and wheel combination determines the required offset so the sidewall is 5mm or more away from the strut. That's the easy bit.

The more important issue is whether the wheel assembly will fit inside the wheel well under all possible variations of steering input and suspension extension or compression. The GT350 has wider front fenders with spacious fender liners and it'll take larger front wheel-tire assemblies than regular S550's. Another variant of the S550 might need a lot of negative camber to get a 315/30 inside the fender, but a GT350 doesn't, and, again on the GT350, you get more consistent tire temperatures with the front camber in the 2.2 to 2.5 degree range.

The situation at the rear is similar. Same fenders as other S550's, but the fender liner, the wiring and shock mounts and so on are positioned to create more room for wide tires. I've run Pirelli Trofeo R 325/30's back there on mine (they're spectacularly wide) and they fit fine with a small spacer. Those were the rears that I ran 315/30 MPSC2's up front with. No rubbing, bumping or any issues at either end.

 

[luc]

The tire and wheel combination determines the required offset so the sidewall is 5mm or more away from the strut. That's the easy bit.

The more important issue is whether the wheel assembly will fit inside the wheel well under all possible variations of steering input and suspension extension or compression. The GT350 has wider front fenders with spacious fender liners and it'll take larger front wheel-tire assemblies than regular S550's. Another variant of the S550 might need a lot of negative camber to get a 315/30 inside the fender, but a GT350 doesn't, and, again on the GT350, you get more consistent tire temperatures with the front camber in the 2.2 to 2.5 degree range.

The situation at the rear is similar. Same fenders as other S550's, but the fender liner, the wiring and shock mounts and so on are positioned to create more room for wide tires. I've run Pirelli Trofeo R 325/30's back there on mine (they're spectacularly wide) and they fit fine with a small spacer. Those were the rears that I ran 315/30 MPSC2's up front with. No rubbing, bumping or any issues at either end.

I don’t disagree with you. My point was addressing the poor choice of tire and wheel sizes combination as far that optimum handling is concerned

 

[JAJ]

I don’t disagree with you. My point was addressing the poor choice of tire and wheel sizes combination as far that optimum handling is concerned

Yeah, I hear you. It's tough to say what's what - the Michelin MPSC2 spec sheet that I downloaded in 2017 says you can run the 315/30 on 10.5's, so Michelin's ok with it. Would I do it? Probably not. I run mine on 11" OEM rims. But then again, in the early days, I ran 305/30's on my 10.5" front rims and I ran the 325/30 Trofeo's on 11" rims, which in both cases puts them on the minimum width shown on their spec sheets. And, of course, they were fine. Could they have been better? Probably, but the mods to run wider rims took time and money, so they came later.

 

[17MagMetal]

Classic and easy fitment
305 square with the same wheels all around to rotate, camber plate, 1” front spacer and ford racing hubs with extended studs

You guys blew my mind, props! I’m familiar with the extra clearance granted by camber plates (i’ve enjoyed this), I didn’t realize you could squeeze 305s into it without getting an offset/thinner strut body. I have little to no space to squeeze more rubber down there with 295s and -~1.6 deg of camber.

 

[17MagMetal]

You said that before, but a lot of guys with GTs put 305s on 11s and run square setups. Its not even hard. You just need camber plates and a ~26 offset. Theres more space down there if you go looking for it.

camber plates do two things, they move the strut inboard giving you more total space and they tilt the wheel which helps the outside tuck under the fender. Camber bolts are not the same thing. Those give you the tilt but not the extra space. The rest is just getting the right offset, which is well documented and tested for 305s.

Definitely familiar with that fact, I’m running plates. I’m pretty mind blown that there’s room to run another half inch of wheel and tire with the experience I’ve had installing/aligning my GT.

I see it’s possible though per the other post, props to you all.

 

[MoneyPit#53]

Sorry for not being able to reply to everyone till now.

I’ll try to shine a little more light on why I made this thread.

My current setup is 325/30 4S rears and 295/35 4S fronts. Tires current tread depth is somewhere around 2.5-3/32.

While changing my oil last week I noticed some considerable inner camber wear on one of the fronts. So bad that the belts are showing.

My reason for the 315/30 square setup isn’t a great one but it’s because of the situation I’m currently in.

I plan on going FI early next year. I need new tires as it is with the belt showing on one of the fronts. As everyone already knows, tire choices that fit the stock GT350 wheels are pretty limited and pricey at that.

I found a decent set of budget tires that would get me through the rest of this year and not be a waste of money until it’s time to get a proper wheel/tire setup for when boost goes on.

The budget tire I’m looking at is a Kenda Vesda in 315/30/19.

I don’t competitively track my car but I do drive spiritedly on these Tennessee backroads every chance I can get.

basically just looking for a quick fix and not looking to drop $1600-1800 on tires that I’ll only be using for 6 months or so.

The Kenda Vesda’s are only $850 shipped for a set of 4 so it’s literally half the price.

 

[luc]

Sorry for not being able to reply to everyone till now.

I’ll try to shine a little more light on why I made this thread.

My current setup is 325/30 4S rears and 295/35 4S fronts. Tires current tread depth is somewhere around 2.5-3/32.

While changing my oil last week I noticed some considerable inner camber wear on one of the fronts. So bad that the belts are showing.

My reason for the 315/30 square setup isn’t a great one but it’s because of the situation I’m currently in.

I plan on going FI early next year. I need new tires as it is with the belt showing on one of the fronts. As everyone already knows, tire choices that fit the stock GT350 wheels are pretty limited and pricey at that.

I found a decent set of budget tires that would get me through the rest of this year and not be a waste of money until it’s time to get a proper wheel/tire setup for when boost goes on.

The budget tire I’m looking at is a Kenda Vesda in 315/30/19.

I don’t competitively track my car but I do drive spiritedly on these Tennessee backroads every chance I can get.

basically just looking for a quick fix and not looking to drop $1600-1800 on tires that I’ll only be using for 6 months or so.

The Kenda Vesda’s are only $850 shipped for a set of 4 so it’s literally half the price.

I bet you that your inner wear is not camber but rather toe. Aim for zero toe
I run -2.8 and drive my car to and from the track. Zero wear on the insides

 

[JAJ]

I bet you that your inner wear is not camber but rather toe. Aim for zero toe
I run -2.8 and drive my car to and from the track. Zero wear on the insides

I agree.

As for the cheap tires, they won't likely be great for traction but other than that they'll probably be fine.

 

[Brisvegas]

I agree.

As for the cheap tires, they won't likely be great for traction but other than that they'll probably be fine.

Cheap tyres can create accidents that high Quality tyres wont have , each to their own but grippy tyres are the best insurance bang for buck and something i will never scrimp on . Poor man buys twice

 

[MoneyPit#53]

Cheap tyres can create accidents that high Quality tyres wont have , each to their own but grippy tyres are the best insurance bang for buck and something i will never scrimp on . Poor man buys twice

I’m buying twice regardless. It’s either pay $2K now for Michelin’s and then a proper setup when boost goes on this winter or spend $900 now and then the proper setup this .

Any FYI I’m not poor. If you judge people solely by their financial status in life, you’re nothing short of a fool…

 

[MoneyPit#53]

I bet you that your inner wear is not camber but rather toe. Aim for zero toe
I run -2.8 and drive my car to and from the track. Zero wear on the insides

You’re probably spot on with that

 

[NightmareMoon]

Kenda whats? Yeah no thanks. Good luck.

 

[Brisvegas]

I’m buying twice regardless. It’s either pay $2K now for Michelin’s and then a proper setup when boost goes on this winter or spend $900 now and then the proper setup this .

Any FYI I’m not poor. If you judge people solely by their financial status in life, you’re nothing short of a fool…

THe second buy might be an entire car or scraping some one out of the car . Geez u got a bit but hurt over that one . Hi Po cars with chinesium tyres . Carry on buddy , dont take it so personal . Some people put safety down the list and thats fine as long as you dont hit my things .

 

[kz]

I’m buying twice regardless. It’s either pay $2K now for Michelin’s and then a proper setup when boost goes on this winter or spend $900 now and then the proper setup this .

Any FYI I’m not poor. If you judge people solely by their financial status in life, you’re nothing short of a fool…

Why do you think you'll need to change tires after installing FI ? What's a proper setup and whatever it is, why not run proper setup now ? FI has little to do with it.

Buying cheap tires - especially for not very logical reasons is not very logical, to put it mildly.

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