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Upgrading P1X to…

Angrey

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Hey, all I know is, you're not trapping 175 mph on a 3900 lb car + driver with normal P1X limited.

A crude calculator assuming the driver is 100 lb female would mean a 3975 lb car + driver to trap 175 mph in the 1/4 mile would need nearly 1500 rwhp.

Procharger's own literature rates the P1X max CFM to be 1275 cfm and a max of 950 horsepower.

Something is fishy here. I'm not questioning that the car could trap 175. But either A) it weighs less than 3875 or B) It's making way more steam than a "normal" P1X that you and I could buy makes (maybe both).

If this keeps up, I'm going to start putting Procharger in the same camp as the ESS exaggerists.

I'm open to the idea of wild outcomes, but something isn't adding up here.
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Hey, all I know is, you're not trapping 175 mph on a 3900 lb car + driver with normal P1X limited.

A crude calculator assuming the driver is 100 lb female would mean a 3975 lb car + driver to trap 175 mph in the 1/4 mile would need nearly 1500 rwhp.

Procharger's own literature rates the P1X max CFM to be 1275 cfm and a max of 950 horsepower.

Something is fishy here. I'm not questioning that the car could trap 175. But either A) it weighs less than 3875 or B) It's making way more steam than a "normal" P1X that you and I could buy makes (maybe both).

If this keeps up, I'm going to start putting Procharger in the same camp as the ESS exaggerists.

I'm open to the idea of wild outcomes, but something isn't adding up here.
It makes some steam obviously. Blowers are measured to ensure impeller and exducer diameters are in spec. The engine they run is a big money piece. Race tricks, testing etc. What you are saying can be applied to any blower running at the front. If you do what they do and have the hardware they have, then you run what they run. Don't get stuck on the advertisement chart of impeller speed, cfm and max power. That's just for normal folks.

For reference my car weighs 3835 and only in the 1200hp range, traps 173 in the heat.
 
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KKell83

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Not sure why everyone is caught up on "over spinning it". Do what it takes to go fast, period. Limited street is 3650lbs for coyote and p1x. She holds the record, so believe they weighed it, tested fuel and likely tore the engine down.
I always think if it’s over its max range that heat would be crazy stupid.
 
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KKell83

KKell83

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Hey, all I know is, you're not trapping 175 mph on a 3900 lb car + driver with normal P1X limited.

A crude calculator assuming the driver is 100 lb female would mean a 3975 lb car + driver to trap 175 mph in the 1/4 mile would need nearly 1500 rwhp.

Procharger's own literature rates the P1X max CFM to be 1275 cfm and a max of 950 horsepower.

Something is fishy here. I'm not questioning that the car could trap 175. But either A) it weighs less than 3875 or B) It's making way more steam than a "normal" P1X that you and I could buy makes (maybe both).

If this keeps up, I'm going to start putting Procharger in the same camp as the ESS exaggerists.

I'm open to the idea of wild outcomes, but something isn't adding up here.
any limitations to running nitrous in these events?
 

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80FoxCoupe

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any limitations to running nitrous in these events?
You can't spray enough nitrous on a coyote to be competitive with boosted combos. Nitrous gets a weigh break down to 3050lbs or so. With that said you're in a fox body. Nitrous is limited to a single stage plate or fogger. Direct port at around a .032 jet, so about 300hp or a touch more. Nitrous doesn't make sense on a coyote, but would be better suited on a Widsor as you can go up to 365cid. Keep in mind when heads up racing, a tenth and a half off puts you at the back.
 
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KKell83

KKell83

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You can't spray enough nitrous on a coyote to be competitive with boosted combos. Nitrous gets a weigh break down to 3050lbs or so. With that said you're in a fox body. Nitrous is limited to a single stage plate or fogger. Direct port at around a .032 jet, so about 300hp or a touch more. Nitrous doesn't make sense on a coyote, but would be better suited on a Widsor as you can go up to 365cid. Keep in mind when heads up racing, a tenth and a half off puts you at the back.
Thanks! Never knew that.
 
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Rulebook states upper and lower pulley spec for 4.11 step up procharger. They spin the engine to get the performance they are looking for. 8k, 9k, 10k rpm who knows. You are still stuck on max impeller rpm and I'm not sure why. They weigh the car at tech and after each pass. So it meets the rules. What else u got?
This entire conversation was based around the topic of "can a P1X make 1,000 WHP". So I guess the answer is, it depends. Sure, if you have a race built forged motor, fancy cams, 9,500 RPM, 110 octane fuel, etc. etc. Then I guess it can. If in the context of other people here wondering if their bone stock Coyote with an off the shelf bolt on kit can make 1,000 wheel - no, it can't. at least not without overspinning it considerably. Right? This thread is about upgrading from a P1X to a D1X, or whatever is necessary to make 1,000 wheel without having to over-work the P1X.
 

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This entire conversation was based around the topic of "can a P1X make 1,000 WHP". So I guess the answer is, it depends. Sure, if you have a race built forged motor, fancy cams, 9,500 RPM, 110 octane fuel, etc. etc. Then I guess it can. If in the context of other people here wondering if their bone stock Coyote with an off the shelf bolt on kit can make 1,000 wheel - no, it can't. at least not without overspinning it considerably. Right? This thread is about upgrading from a P1X to a D1X, or whatever is necessary to make 1,000 wheel without having to over-work the P1X.
Agreed. I do think the OP should pulley down on the p1x first. Cost is just a pulley and he may be really happy with the performance. Or not LOL.
 

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This entire conversation was based around the topic of "can a P1X make 1,000 WHP". So I guess the answer is, it depends. Sure, if you have a race built forged motor, fancy cams, 9,500 RPM, 110 octane fuel, etc. etc. Then I guess it can. If in the context of other people here wondering if their bone stock Coyote with an off the shelf bolt on kit can make 1,000 wheel - no, it can't. at least not without overspinning it considerably. Right? This thread is about upgrading from a P1X to a D1X, or whatever is necessary to make 1,000 wheel without having to over-work the P1X.
Agreed, then someone chimed in that it's possible to trap 175 mph on a full weight P1X car, which I find HIGHLY HIGHLY dubious.
 

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KKell83

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Agreed. I do think the OP should pulley down on the p1x first. Cost is just a pulley and he may be really happy with the performance. Or not LOL.
You’re right. I have a spicier pulley already just haven’t added it on. It’s a Griptec 3.25” (again I have a passenger mounted version) which shows at 7800rpms I’ll be slightly over spinning which is okay by me, I just don’t want to over spin it excessively.

IMG_3900.webp
 

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Agreed, then someone chimed in that it's possible to trap 175 mph on a full weight P1X car, which I find HIGHLY HIGHLY dubious.
Exactly. No Fuggin way. That car is making 1300 Wheel
 

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You’re right. I have a spicier pulley already just haven’t added it on. It’s a Griptec 3.25” (again I have a passenger mounted version) which shows at 7800rpms I’ll be slightly over spinning which is okay by me, I just don’t want to over spin it excessively.

IMG_3900.jpeg
I made 718 Wheel on my 2017 with the 3.25" pulley, stock balancer, (stage 1 HO, not the stage 2 with the bolt on crank pulley addition) E85, headers, manual trans. Your results may vary....
 
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KKell83

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This entire conversation was based around the topic of "can a P1X make 1,000 WHP". So I guess the answer is, it depends. Sure, if you have a race built forged motor, fancy cams, 9,500 RPM, 110 octane fuel, etc. etc. Then I guess it can. If in the context of other people here wondering if their bone stock Coyote with an off the shelf bolt on kit can make 1,000 wheel - no, it can't. at least not without overspinning it considerably. Right? This thread is about upgrading from a P1X to a D1X, or whatever is necessary to make 1,000 wheel without having to over-work the P1X.
Thank you for pulling this thread back to the original topic. Still had quality discussions but yes back to the original question:

Would I need to upgrade my P1X to a D1X (or go bigger) for a solid 850-900w everyday street car with the abilities of pulleying down, loading a more aggressive tune -if needed- and hitting that magic 1000w mark while running some low times in the 1/4 without the need of additional work; just solely on cfm. At least thats what the original intention was.

Now with some great incite and individuals who have already managed this task, the consensus is… no. At least, not without diving into more engine work to help multiply the outcome - I.E., head porting, increased valve size, cams, compression, to even RPMs, etc. So the truth on the matter is the P1X CAN push high horsepower figures but only if it has additional help…

With that, it does seem like a D1X could be better but it wouldn’t be a ‘night and day’ difference aside form “possibly” at max s/c rpm (as my engine sits, with no internal work done), see 1000w but then it’s out of steam. Of course, like above, if I start touching engine parts it would only perform better and hit my goal(s), plus some.
 
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KKell83

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I made 718 Wheel on my 2017 with the 3.25" pulley, stock balancer, (stage 1 HO, not the stage 2 with the bolt on crank pulley addition) E85, headers, manual trans. Your results may vary....
I was at 724w with a 3.6” pulley, a 2018+ manifold, Kook LTs and stock crank (serpentine belt). Not sure what I am pushing atm.
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