Heat soak is when after a few spirited runs on a positive displacement blower, the fluid in the intercooler gets so hot from back to back runs, that the ecu starts pulling timing because the air temperatures post intercooler is too hot.
Sorry to hear about the totalling of the car. I know the feeling. It's quite the kick in the sack.
If a chiller system is properly installed it will not effect cabin ac. Myself and Sumit Goyal own IC Chiller and I have personally installed our system on a 2020 Mustang with a stage 2 Roush on it. The person I did it for lives south of me in Oregon state and ran his car in high heat mid summer at the drag strip. He knocked 2 tenths of a second off his 1/4 mile time with no tuning. His cabin AC is nice and cold when not running the car in drag mode too. Dan (DF19RS3) also has our system on his car in Michigan and saw really good results as well. I will have to disagree on Ethanol eliminating the heat soak issue. I am not a fuel expert by any means but I do know running ethanol yes it is a cooler fuel but when you start pushing boost higher it can only do so much. Any vehicles I know pushing 15 psi or higher struggle in the heat even if they are running E90. Of course every blower type and vehicle application the amount of boost that starts to cause significant heat soak where timing is being pulled can very.
To be clear Dan we are bypassing your heat exchanger when the chiller is running. It is still in line in the system but is being bypassed by our bypass valve option. Its there to be used in colder weather when the AC doesnt function with just the flip of the red rocker switch. Typically below 60 degrees ambient weather. Its also available to be used on an above 60 degree day if you dont want to have your AC going. I doubt you will ever use it but as Angrey was pointing out if you completly eliminate your factory or aftermarket liquid to air heat exchanger you have no back up if you ever did have an issue with your AC system. That is a big reason why we offer that option in our packages. The majority of our customers drive their vehicles on the street more than the drag strip. Its a nice option to have unless you are using your vehicle as strictly a drag race vehicle.
It will still help and isn't as drastic of a swap as the interchiller. I clearly wrote to try it and see if it improved it enough for his liking. I also kept my HE, but the mouting and routing was more involved and custom and it's setup in series now which is less effective at absolute lowest IAT's initially but better for long sustained use. The owner of IC was adament that he did not like the idea of keeping the heat exchanger, because in certain circumstances and depending on how you plumb it (series or parallel) the HE can actually add heat to the coolant (if the discharge of the coolant out of the blower is lower than ambient, running it through the HE will warm it, not cool it). Keeping the HE is more of an extended use setup, whereas elminating it is more of a limited use/drag setup.
Well, I have real world data and experience that says otherwise and I actually adjusted the coolant level to maximize the suction side pressure drop when it cycles. (there's really no consistent guide or data on how much coolant to add, or PAG oil for that matter as it depends on how the T fitting is plumbed). My A/C still works and works well enough for me, but in the dead heat of FL Summer, with the system on, my A/C still blows cool, just not quite as capable as it was before (again, not enough for me to say don't do it, just an advisory that if you're one of those people who like it frosty as can be, it may be a surprise to you). There's no free lunch here, you can't split the adiabatic load between two systems and still expect the single unified loads to be as capable. I get that some people notice an improvement, but that's probably in scenarios where they were light on A/C coolant to begin with.
We have vehicles in Florida, Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico that are not suffering in cabin cooling loss. I am by no means trying to argue with you we just have different experiences and we have seen this slightly on the Dodge Durango that uses a dual zone AC system. I know Florida can be a bit unique with the humidity being higher and that definitely can cause the AC system to struggle in general to keep up. I have had 103 degree weather locally and watched some of my personal vehicles struggle to keep up that are properly charged with refrigerant and in good working order but that might be more of a vehicle/ac system specific issue. My personal car that I run our chiller system on kept cabin ac at a cool 41 degrees at the center vents on those 100 plus degree days with my inter-cooler coolant temps staying in the low to mid 50's. Pretty much every time we have had cabin cooling issues it has been on higher mileage vehicles and/or improper installation or vacuuming/charging of the system. As for adding a load to the system I totally understand that and of course if the capacity of a system isnt there it isnt going to be able to keep up we just havent ran into that so far. I am working on a solution for that as well though in case we do run into a system that struggles to keep up. We will be coming out with that early next year and it wont require an additional condenser or more cutting up of the vehicle to fit it. The Dodge Durango is the only vehicle we have seen so far that has struggled a bit in high heat/humidity.
In my situation, I would have preferred the isolation valve to turn the IC system off/on and isolate it from the cabin cooling (because I maintained my HE). In the install where you eliminate the HE, that's not practical or useful.
I really appreciate your opinion. You definitely have good insight and I don't doubt your experience at all. We actually have a mount for our brick that puts it directly behind the crash bar for the Roush setup as their heat exchanger leaves enough room to mount it there. I have only had one customer ask about being able to shut off just the chiller refrigerant flow. That wouldn't be hard to do by just adding in another refrigerant valve between the T and the chiller on the liquid line but I think you would have to be careful not to shut both valves off at the same time. Not confident the ac pressure switch would read this properly and shut the compressor off if that was done on accident to prevent it from popping the pressure relief valve on the compressor or worse.
3) Your Blower was motor cutting out? I do not have this issue at all. No retune for my FI Interchiller. I do have a base model, no zone temp control.
At stop lights/idle, something to do indirectly or directly with the fan duty. But I was running an aftermarket tune (not whipple or Roush) so there's that, with "standard" tune logic it might have already been controlled differently. Once we adjusted the fan duty, it resolved the issue.
