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Should I Just Save my Money on Suspension Upgrades

Dave2013M3

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My 2nd reply to this thread...I would do dampers, Steeda, Bilstein or Ford Performance and I would also do lighter wheels with more aggressive rubber. The car would feel so much better. The thing is when you do the dampers you might as well do the springs its not much more in cost and the labor to do it is minimal over just the dampers.
 

JFBullitt

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I echo doing the BMR lockout or Steeda STH kit being a big help.

I haven't driven a non-PP S550 but knowing how soft even the PP1 cars are, some higher quality dampers would definitely help especially if you're going to stay at stock ride height.

Don't know why Ford always tunes these cars with a lot of body motion and soft responses(I take that back some, I do given the demographics of most Mustang buyers). That's why I'm trying to take my car in the direction of an SS 1LE or M3...
 
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KingKona

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I'll second what many others are saying; IRS cradle and dampers.

Steeda Stop The Hop Street Ultimate kit, and their Pro Action Adjustable shocks and struts.

You will not believe the difference locating the rear cradle properly, and a high-quality set of adjustable dampers, will make. Night & day.

And I don't understand why, since your car will "only be a Summer time, daily driver" you're forgoing summer tires. There's no problem with Minnesota weather. It's just fine.
 

K4fxd

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There's no problem with Minnesota weather.

Depending on where in Mn summer tires could be a 6 to 8 week deal. It may get to the 70's but mornings will be in the 40's. UHP A/S will allow longer driving season.
 

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Edgemere

Edgemere

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Thanks to all for your feedback

I live 50 miles North of Minneapolis. The morning temps in April/May and October, on most mornings are in the low 30 degree range. I have had, (2)- 2.3 Mustangs Eco Boosts, (1)-GT 500 Shelby, (1)-2SS Camaro Hot Wheels edition, (1)-C5 Corvette, and now my pride and joy a 2022 Grabber Blue Mustang GT Premium, with manual transmission, and Recaro seats.

All of my Summer cars have had Summer tires, and I am sick of sweating them out going to early morning car shows, and only having them last 15,000 miles. My current Mustang GT has Great all season radials on 20" wheels. With these I can drive my car longer each season, and I can get to early morning car shows without worries. All of my cars I have spent a ton of money modding them out. Especially The GT 500 Shelby, and I am sick of going down that rabbit hole. One thing always leads to another, and then the problems that can arise with the improvements.

Now back to my question that I originally asked. Should I waste my money on suspension upgrades? I do not want to lower my car, I want to keep my All Season Radial tires, and I am now retired and need to be watchful of my disposable income. I will never track or drag the car. Been there and done that. I am a car show guy now, and I am very proud of my Grabber Blue GT. I am once again back in the Mustang family. So I guess I have answered my own question. Leave well enough alone. Unless someone has a inexpensive, easy to install suspension upgrade to make my car a bit more responsive, that I can keep from my wife.

Thanks, Edgemere
 

K4fxd

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Bilstein shocks and struts will firm up the car without it being harsh.

Since you like the car as is I'd wait till the stockers wear out. Somewhere around 50K miles.
 
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Edgemere

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Hi Shogun32 & K4fxd

Yes I read both your reply's. Thanks for the info. Question. I had Bilstein shocks and struts on my Corvette, and they seemed rather harsh. What are your opinions on Sreeda Pro Action non adjustable shocks and struts in lieu of the Bilstein shocks and struts?

Edgemere
 

WD Pro

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I am a PP1 mag ride car, but the biggest single difference I have noticed to date is the subframe lockouts.

Other mods that I have, that could be considered as beneficial for your question / this topic :

  • Front subframe brace (note that PP1 spec already has the three brace front setup).
  • Rear subframe braces.
  • Vertical links.

I know some people rave about the rear subframe braces but to me, the subframe lockouts made a much bigger difference.

I suspect it comes down to which mod goes on the car first.

First mod (be it braces or lockouts) gets you 90% of the total benefit, second mod gets you the last 10% i.e. whichever you do first, will leave the biggest impression on you.

Lockouts are smaller and lighter, but more difficult to fit.

Braces are easier and quicker to fit.

Both mods are 100% reversible.

Both will corrode if used in a harsh environment without additional maintenance / protection.

WD :like:
 

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K4fxd

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What are your opinions on Sreeda Pro Action non adjustable shocks and struts in lieu of the Bilstein shocks and struts?
You will have to call steeda. I find the bilsteins on the stock mustang springs to be perfect, not harsh at all. Now if you pair them with some performance springs yes, they can be harsh.
 

shogun32

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had Bilstein shocks and struts on my Corvette, and they seemed rather harsh. What are your opinions on Sreeda Pro Action non adjustable shocks
The Bilstein have a firm initial curve to the compression stroke. So they are tactile - you can feel what you're rolling over. Even in something like an f150 which had bilsteins installed at 4 corners 6 weeks after it came off the showroom. But it's not a sharp edged hit. Think of it as getting hit with a baseball bat, vs one wrapped in a foam pillow. One is a sharp whack, the other a whomp.

If you don't want as much road feedback then get the FP track dampers.

I would pass on the Steeda. I have the adjustable ones and you really have to have that to dial them in. I'm sure the non will do, but if you're gonna just go with defaults the FP or Bilstein are the better choice.
 
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Edgemere

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Greetings, I did more research and I think I want to go with the Koni Orange STR.T Shocks & Struts. I want a bit softer ride then the Bilstien and FP Track shocks and struts, and I am going to keep my factor springs which are linear, with a spring rate of 160 Front and 668 Rear. Your thoughts?

Edgemere
 

shogun32

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and I think I want to go with the Koni Orange STR.T
No!

If you don't want the tautness of Bilstein then go FP track. Despite the name they are hardly firm or overdamped.

The koni orange and Steeda pActive are basically the same thing. And while the compression damping is soft enough in high speed, the rebound is inadequate. You might as well have stayed with stock.
 

Dana Pants

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FYI, adding a rear swaybar to a base GT on all seasons will quickly push the car balance into nightmare mode territory. I recommend adding a front swaybar as well or going back to stock to avoid accidentally killing yourself.
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