Need help spending money on suspension parts

[pike1346]

I am currently starting on upgrading the suspension on my car. I have a 16 GT Premium model. I do like that it is a comfy ride, but from day one it needed upgrades that I just haven't been able to do b/c of life...

So the car is four years old, 60k miles, but it looks new. I keep it up very well. Suspension is stock and I have an idea of what to buy, but I know you guys have much more knowledge on what I should do to get this car smooth, on rails, and drive straight.

Since day one it feels like the front end is moving around at high speeds. The best way to explain it is it feels like its floating and I need to control it (move the steering wheel a lot) to drive straight. Tramlining is BAD too. I brought this up before on here and a few people said it is not the front end but the IRS.

I do not have the cash to buy all parts at once. Memorial Day sales sucked this year, so I only bought the Steeda Mustang Alignment Kit for the S550 Rear Subframe for BMR CB005 / SR Kit (2015-2020) and Ford Performance Mustang Performance Pack Rear Toe Link Kit.

Looking at pulling the trigger on Ford Performance 2015-2020 Mustang Performance Pack Front Control Arm Kit , or BMR's new IRS Subframe Support Brace System, which seems to replace BMR CB005. but then I need the IRS Bushings too. after all that is installed I would need an alignment

I already have lowering springs sitting in my garage, but I figured I should buy new struts since I have 60k on the car.

I need help figuring out the path going forward, a parts list, so to say.

Forgot to add, I am not tracking the car. I just want it to be comfortable, turn like it's on rails, and drive solid at high speeds (it has been disappointing every time I am on the interstate from day one.) When I was young my brother had a Honda Accord that you could let go of the wheel going 80 and it felt like it was on rails, steering wheel did not move, and it sure dd not feel like we were going 80 at all

Please help. I am trying to figure out where to go from here. Any help will be appreciated.

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[Bluemustang]

Be careful. If comfort is your main thing, there are many suspension upgrades that can have unintended consequences. Its very easy to be swayed by this vendor or that especially if you don't know what you're doing. Suspension is a system and has to work together to work in harmony. In addition, most changes to improve something subtracts from something else. There is not usually a free lunch with these things.

That said you can make proper modifications to make it ride and handle better than stock but you must choose wisely. I would suggest enlisting an expert's help, such as Brian who commented above. Dude knows his stuff.

 

[1 old racer]

Two years ago I swapped out my new 2018 PP1 suspension and replaced it with the Ford racing track system, as well as Steeda 1/4" rear spacer,swaybar end links and bump steer correction. I later did replace the ford racing sway bars with the steeda adjustable because they have more adjustments. I like a stiffer ride with a hint of oversteer when I am aggressive on the twisties . I also do visit the track from time to time with this car. Shortly after my install I replaced a friends 2015 PP1 worn suspension,(90k on the clock), with a progressive Steeda setup. Steeda sway bar end links and bumpsteer correction and sold him my ford racing swaybars He wanted a softer ride that corrects the PP1 float he always hated. He loves the freeway smooth ride with the flat cornering the ford racing sway bars set up gives him. Just two different view points from two different set ups.

 

[NightmareMoon]

When tires are old, they’ll tramline waaay more.
Get the alignment checked, and ask for a slight but of toe in on the front. Front toe in gives you that accord hands off the wheel stability (and a heavier steering feel as well). Old alignment, toe may be all over the llace and make the car sketchy.

want to lock down the front end after the alignment? Replacing the shocks is a great idea (and the alignment). You can throw on a stiffer front swaybar if you want more than that.

my guess is that your problems are 1) alignment (specifically toe on all 4 corners), 2) old tires? 3) old shocks.

PP front control arm isn’t a bad idea. Have the rear wheel hubs checked for play at that age I’d done 3 replacements of those.

 

[Roadway 5.0]

my guess is that your problems are 1) alignment (specifically toe on all 4 corners), 2) old tires? 3) old shocks.

Agreed. OP, it sounds like you’re running toe-out on your front wheels. An alignment should set you right. Which springs are you installing? If you go low, your front suspension will feel limp without control arm correction. For sure get new shocks and struts if you’re at 60k and installing stiffer and/or lower springs. I’d hold off on buying more parts until you reassess after install of dampers and get an alignment.

 

[jacknifetoaswan]

Honestly, at 60k miles, you're probably due for struts and shocks, and while the front end might need a couple suspension components, the rear end is really where these cars need help. I'd start with fresh dampers at all four corners, springs if you want them, plus a good alignment. You don't make mention of what tires you're running, what size they are, and how many miles they have, so that will also come up in all discussions.

JR

 

[Vicr]

Depending on the drop with the new springs you may need Caster/Camber plates to get a proper alignment. To save money on labor do springs, dampers and CCplates all at the same time.

 

[pike1346]

Honestly, at 60k miles, you're probably due for struts and shocks, and while the front end might need a couple suspension components, the rear end is really where these cars need help. I'd start with fresh dampers at all four corners, springs if you want them, plus a good alignment. You don't make mention of what tires you're running, what size they are, and how many miles they have, so that will also come up in all discussions.

JR

I have had the Pirelli's p Zero 265/35/20 when I bought it new, then put Nitto NT555 G2's 275/35/20 which have 30k on them, but the floating has always been there. Tramlining has always been there. I routinely keep them at 35 psi. I tried lower psi and higher psi. I fully believe tires are not the issue. The 20's are heavy AF, and that may be an issue.

Mostly what I am reading from you guys is shocks and struts. I will put the lowering springs on too and get another alignment somewhere besides the local dealership, since they are full of shit. I do have the Premium Warranty with Ford up to 125K miles/6 years, but I cannot stand my local dealership. I would have to take it about 90 miles away to Baton Rouge.

 

[pike1346]

Depending on the drop with the new springs you may need Caster/Camber plates to get a proper alignment. To save money on labor do springs, dampers and CCplates all at the same time.

Will do

 

[pike1346]

Agreed. OP, it sounds like you’re running toe-out on your front wheels. An alignment should set you right. Which springs are you installing? If you go low, your front suspension will feel limp without control arm correction. For sure get new shocks and struts if you’re at 60k and installing stiffer and/or lower springs. I’d hold off on buying more parts until you reassess after install of dampers and get an alignment.

I have the SVE lowering springs sitting in my attic. They had great reviews, the minimal drop I want since I have 20's.

Hopefully we see better sales than Memorial Day on July 4th.

I will do the new shocks/struts with lowering springs and alignment. Hopefully that cures the floating feeling. maybe a bump steer kit too for the initial mods and go from there

 

[ENPhoto]

Depending on the drop with the new springs you may need Caster/Camber plates to get a proper alignment. To save money on labor do springs, dampers and CCplates all at the same time.

Good advice.

My 16GTPP was the same as you mentioned OP.

Same feeling.


I put in:

Eibach Pro Kit
10.5" Front wheels w/ 285 Firehawks
11" Rear wheels w/ 325 Firehawks
Alignment

I can let go of the wheel at any speed and it tracks straight. Wheel hop has been minimized, but still hops a tiny bit getting on it mid-turn at a right hand stop.

Corners are way more spirited.

What others have mentioned in regards to alignment, tires and suspension are a great start for an NA car at your HP level.

 

[pike1346]

Honestly, at 60k miles, you're probably due for struts and shocks, and while the front end might need a couple suspension components, the rear end is really where these cars need help. I'd start with fresh dampers at all four corners, springs if you want them, plus a good alignment. You don't make mention of what tires you're running, what size they are, and how many miles they have, so that will also come up in all discussions.

JR

That is where I will start. What about Sway Bars? Will they help at high speeds and stop the movement?

 

[shogun32]

Hopefully we see better sales than Memorial Day on July 4th.

or just go pick up the FRPP track setup posted over on the for-sale section.

 

[pike1346]

or just go pick up the FRPP track setup posted over on the for-sale section.

Pretty good idea here. He wants $800, which is a deal, but I think the Track pack is too stiff. I found the Street Pack for $829.

I am pretty sure I am gong to go with the Street Pack, unless you guys have a good reason not to.

Should I also order the Performance Pack Front Control arms or the BMR IRS Subframe Support Brace System, which I would have to buy the IRS bushings too. If I am going to do one big install then, get it aligned. I have to plan the correct parts to install.

So I would have the Steeda IRS Steeda Mustang Alignment Kit for the S550 Rear Subframe for BMR CB005
The FRPP Street Handling Pack

So PP Control Arms and maybe the FRPP Toe Link Bushings, or the BMR subframe support brace and IRS bushings.

I will have to buy the one or the other later on some time. What do yall think?

 

[Roadway 5.0]

Skip the PP front control arms and get the Steeda extended ball joint arms with the bump-steer kit if you’re lowering the vehicle.

I personally don’t think getting the FRPP street kit is worth the time or money. Getting a set of Bilsteins with most any spring is a better choice. But you do you.

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