Aftermarket Rotors

[Prodigal]

Yes rotors will not improve the feel of the brakes at all, it will only help with cooling if you get really nice ones. However, pads, lines, and fluid will absolutely make a large difference. But that all depends on the type of pad you get and how much heat it can handle.

I ordered the Steeda 2 piece rotors. They beat on all their own products and have great CS, plus they were on sale for July 4. I also got their stainless steel brake lines and will do a fluid swap when I install the new brakes. Quick question, doesn’t the clutch use the brake fluid as well? Any issues with the new fluid on the clutch actuator?

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[Jstang23]

I ordered the Steeda 2 piece rotors. They beat on all their own products and have great CS, plus they were on sale for July 4. I also got their stainless steel brake lines and will do a fluid swap when I install the new brakes. Quick question, doesn’t the clutch use the brake fluid as well? Any issues with the new fluid on the clutch actuator?

You'll love the Steeda rotors, one of my buddies has them and they perform as well as the stop tech ones! The stainless steel lines and better fluid will help a bunch with feel and performance, but have you gotten better pads? All of these parts are designed to keep the brakes cool, but the stock pads will still overheat under heavy braking it will just take them longer to get there. I highly recommend the Hawk pads!

No you shouldn't run into any issues with the clutch at all! The fluid is similar in viscosity, just takes much more heat to boil.

 

[shogun32]

Any issues with the new fluid on the clutch actuator?

No

 

[Ewheels]

The only thing that i can tell you is that i use the cheapest blank from rockauto for my, track only, 17 pp1 running 305 nt01 all around
.and I’m a fast driver having been racing for over 30 years

Be careful with this logic.
I did exactly this when a friend recommended the same thing (cheapest rotors from Rock Auto). I bought the cheapest economy Centric blanks from Rock Auto and they warped in a single track day. Couldn't take the heat.
If one wants to go cheap, just look for the cheapest high-carbon rotors.

 

[Jstang23]

Be careful with this logic.
I did exactly this when a friend recommended the same thing (cheapest rotors from Rock Auto). I bought the cheapest economy Centric blanks from Rock Auto and they warped in a single track day. Couldn't take the heat.
If one wants to go cheap, just look for the cheapest high-carbon rotors.

Yes I agree 100%. I always buy my blanks from Ford directly. I have yet to warp a set up Ford blanks, maybe they are better manufactured?

 

[luc]

Be careful with this logic.
I did exactly this when a friend recommended the same thing (cheapest rotors from Rock Auto). I bought the cheapest economy Centric blanks from Rock Auto and they warped in a single track day. Couldn't take the heat.
If one wants to go cheap, just look for the cheapest high-carbon rotors.

I have been doing that for years and never had a problem
Rotors don’t “wrap”, what can happen is called “uneven pad deposits “ that create thickness variations with the accompanying pulsating pedal
So the issue is really pad related and choosing the pads within the temperature range that is required for your application
Pad deposit is normal and required for optimum braking. There is more friction between the pads and rotors that way, think about 2 pieces of sandpaper against each other vs only 1 again smooth metal
https://alconkits.com/support/brake-pad-info/110-the-real-truth-about-warped-brake-rotors

 

[Jstang23]

I have been doing that for years and never had a problem
Rotors don’t “wrap”, what can happen is called “uneven pad deposits “ that create thickness variations with the accompanying pulsating pedal
So the issue is really pad related and choosing the pads within the temperature range that is required for your application

Rotors can and do warp, it happens when the rotors reach extremely hot temps and then cool off unnaturally. Or if you exceed their temperature capacity the metal will actually bend. You are correct it is more common for uneven pad deposits, but warping is the step beyond that

 

[Ewheels]

I have been doing that for years and never had a problem
Rotors don’t “wrap”, what can happen is called “uneven pad deposits “ that create thickness variations with the accompanying pulsating pedal
So the issue is really pad related and choosing the pads within the temperature range that is required for your application
Pad deposit is normal and required for optimum braking. There is more friction between the pads and rotors that way, think about 2 pieces of sandpaper against each other vs only 1 again smooth metal

If it works for you, great, but I honestly don't understand how.

This wasn't pad deposits. It was hot spotting the actual rotor. So as they got worn down, there were high and low spots creating the "judder" sensation. Pads at the time were Gloc R12s so definitely up to the task.

 

[luc]

If it works for you, great, but I honestly don't understand how.

This wasn't pad deposits. It was hot spotting the actual rotor. So as they got worn down, there were high and low spots creating the "judder" sensation. Pads at the time were Gloc R12s so definitely up to the task.

Go to the link I posted
Btw, Alcon is THE brand in racing
Yes, you can have high and low spots in the rotor itself but that is created by uneven wear, not warping
Warpage would imply that if there is a high spot on the front of the rotor, should be a low spot at the exact same location in the back

 

[Ewheels]

Go to the link I posted
Btw, Alcon is THE brand in racing
Yes, you can have high and low spots in the rotor itself but that is created by uneven wear, not warping
Warpage would imply that if there is a high spot on the front of the rotor, should be a low spot at the exact same location in the back

I use the word "warp" in the generic sense to imply a rotor that judders under braking. I understand they don't actually bend/warp.
Apologies, I forgot the rule of no generic language allowed on this forum. Only precise textbook definitions.

The point I was trying to make is that super cheap rotors aren't made to withstand track abuse and curious buyers should proceed with caution.

 

[luc]

I use the word "warp" in the generic sense to imply a rotor that judders under braking. I understand they don't actually bend/warp.
Apologies, I forgot the rule of no generic language allowed on this forum. Only precise textbook definitions.

The point I was trying to make is that super cheap rotors aren't made to withstand track abuse and curious buyers should proceed with caution.

Ok. I can only repeat what I said, never had a problem. Maybe driving style play a role

 

[shogun32]

Warpage would imply that if there is a high spot on the front of the rotor, should be a low spot at the exact same location in the back

except these are 2 plates joined by 'studs' and therefore what warps on one side *may* not cascade to the other side. It could shatter the stud for instance. Cheap rotors are made cheaply so occlusions and crappy granular structure and heat treatment(s) are not out of the question.

If the cheap rotors can last you 50 or so events, you're not exactly burning thru them. I figured you got 10-15 days and therefore were seeing high turnover.

I think the premise is sound enough. That you're using $600 pads would prompt me to consider economizing on rotors too!

Technique probably is a factor - some people just stomp on the pedal regardless of it's current temp and 'shock' the pads/rotor as opposed to using the warm up lap to gradually work the brakes up to operating temp. I also don't subscribe to the notion of just stomping on brakes even if they ARE good and hot. Roll-on, Roll-off. It's not just for the gas pedal.

 

[Rodpwnz]

I've used run OEM ford PP1 Rotors and Centric Blanks for daily driving and Track days with zero issues on either. Got some surface level cracking on the factory Ford ones after 30K+ street miles and a couple track days.

However, I'm just a casual track driver on OEM PP1 DS2500 pads, 300TW street tires, who is relatively easy on the brakes and usually pushing 8-9/10 pace on track so please take that into consideration.

I believe quality blanks from either Centric or Ford OEM should more than suffice for daily driving and casual + occasional track days.

 

[TeeLew]

Btw, Alcon is THE brand in racing

Let's not get crazy. They're A brand in racing.

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