Aftermarket Rotors

[Prodigal]

Sorry, I know this has been discussed here before but I can’t find the thread I am looking for.
looking for the pros and cons of the various aftermarket 380mm front rotors and pp rear out there: Steeda, Baer, GiroDisc, others if I’m missing them. Looking for slotted but not drilled.

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[Jstang23]

Sorry, I know this has been discussed here before but I can’t find the thread I am looking for.
looking for the pros and cons of the various aftermarket 380mm front rotors and pp rear out there: Steeda, Baer, GiroDisc, others if I’m missing them. Looking for slotted but not drilled.

What are you going to be using them for? Track, Autocross, or just spirited back roads driving?

 

[Prodigal]

Occasional track day but mostly very spirited back road blasts

 

[Jstang23]

Occasional track day but mostly very spirited back road blasts

I would honestly just stick with the standard blank rotors. Blank rotors are actually the strongest of all the rotor types and provide the best bite for any pad type (largest surface area). Slotted rotors are more or less for show, and provide very little benefit for the level at which you are driving.

If you are looking for more cooling, which at your level and a M1 would more than likely be overkill, you can get two piece rotors.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/stop...-hat-slotted-rotors-front-pair-813459911.html

Yes they are very expensive but these actually provide a significant benefit. Drilled and/or Slotted rotors are more for show, and don't really begin to provide benefits until you really start tracking hard (non dailyable track car). Again at your level I wouldn't bother with anything, but I know they sure look good. If looks is what you're going for then get a set of powerstop slotted rotors! Hope this helps! Cheers

FYI, I track my car 3-5 times a year and go on very fast mountain rallies. I have the stock blank rotors, but I have Hawk HPS 5.0 pads, stainless steel lines, and RBF 660 fluid.

 

[Latinsen]

I would honestly just stick with the standard blank rotors. Blank rotors are actually the strongest of all the rotor types and provide the best bite for any pad type (largest surface area). Slotted rotors are more or less for show, and provide very little benefit for the level at which you are driving.

If you are looking for more cooling, which at your level and a M1 would more than likely be overkill, you can get two piece rotors.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/stop...-hat-slotted-rotors-front-pair-813459911.html

Yes they are very expensive but these actually provide a significant benefit. Drilled and/or Slotted rotors are more for show, and don't really begin to provide benefits until you really start tracking hard (non dailyable track car). Again at your level I wouldn't bother with anything, but I know they sure look good. If looks is what you're going for then get a set of powerstop slotted rotors! Hope this helps! Cheers

FYI, I track my car 3-5 times a year and go on very fast mountain rallies. I have the stock blank rotors, but I have Hawk HPS 5.0 pads, stainless steel lines, and RBF 660 fluid.

I occasionally do spirited driving. When coming to a stop or slowing down from high speeds, I feel like I'm getting less braking performance. Instead of holding the brake pedal I pump it because I can literally hear the brakes cooking. Stock pads and rotors. I don't feel confident in my brakes so I want to know if the blank rotors with some aftermarket pads would benefit more than having drilled and slotted rotors.

 

[Jstang23]

I occasionally do spirited driving. When coming to a stop or slowing down from high speeds, I feel like I'm getting less braking performance. Instead of holding the brake pedal I pump it because I can literally hear the brakes cooking. Stock pads and rotors. I don't feel confident in my brakes so I want to know if the blank rotors with some aftermarket pads would benefit more than having drilled and slotted rotors.

The stock base GT pads and rotors are honestly not very good for spirited driving (ask me how I know lol). With the blank rotors and an upgraded pad compound and fluid you will absolutely notice a difference in performance. I recommend the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads and Motul RBF 660 brake fluid. This can all be purchased for under 400 dollars and will provide a significant upgrade in braking.

I run the same set up, plus some stainless steel braided brake lines, and I feel very confident in my brakes. I have pushed them hard and you can feel they definitely get hot but they do not glaze and after a proper cool down they return to normal brake feel!

 

[Prodigal]

The stock base GT pads and rotors are honestly not very good for spirited driving (ask me how I know lol). With the blank rotors and an upgraded pad compound and fluid you will absolutely notice a difference in performance. I recommend the Hawk HPS 5.0 pads and Motul RBF 660 brake fluid. This can all be purchased for under 400 dollars and will provide a significant upgrade in braking.

I run the same set up, plus some stainless steel braided brake lines, and I feel very confident in my brakes. I have pushed them hard and you can feel they definitely get hot but they do not glaze and after a proper cool down they return to normal brake feel!

What’s the quantity amount for a full system change to the Motul RBF660 fluid?

 

[shogun32]

What’s the quantity amount for a full system change to the Motul RBF660 fluid?

Under 1.5l as I recall. Put speed bleeders in while you're at it.

 

[EFI]

Instead of holding the brake pedal I pump it because I can literally hear the brakes cooking. Stock pads and rotors. I don't feel confident in my brakes so I want to know if the blank rotors with some aftermarket pads would benefit more than having drilled and slotted rotors.

What you're experiencing is the shittyness of the OEM design, and a new set of rotors is not going to do much. Some better pads and fluid will, but again not much.

Sounds like you would be a good candidate for the 15" performance pack brakes.

 

[luc]

Sorry, I know this has been discussed here before but I can’t find the thread I am looking for.
looking for the pros and cons of the various aftermarket 380mm front rotors and pp rear out there: Steeda, Baer, GiroDisc, others if I’m missing them. Looking for slotted but not drilled.

The only thing that i can tell you is that i use the cheapest blank from rockauto for my, track only, 17 pp1 running 305 nt01 all around
.and I’m a fast driver having been racing for over 30 years

 

[shogun32]

The only thing that i can tell you is that i use the cheapest blank from rockauto for my, track only, 17 pp1 running 305 nt01 all around
.and I’m a fast driver having been racing for over 30 years

So RAYBESTOS 681954R? Or CENTRIC 12161116. How many days do you get out of them and what pad?

I like the price point of RAYBESTOS 681954PER personally.

 

[luc]

So RAYBESTOS 681954R? Or CENTRIC 12161116. How many days do you get out of them and what pad?

I like the price point of RAYBESTOS 681954PER personally.

Cobalt xr1 in front and 3 in the back
Sometimes centric, sometimes other brands. Whatever is cheaper
Usually get a full year or about 50 sessions of 20 minutes

 

[Jstang23]

What’s the quantity amount for a full system change to the Motul RBF660 fluid?

I always buy two bottles! The race prep shop I use says it can be flushed with 1 bottle, but if your swapping fluid types 2 bottles is necessary!

 

[Jstang23]

What you're experiencing is the shittyness of the OEM design, and a new set of rotors is not going to do much. Some better pads and fluid will, but again not much.

Sounds like you would be a good candidate for the 15" performance pack brakes.

Yes rotors will not improve the feel of the brakes at all, it will only help with cooling if you get really nice ones. However, pads, lines, and fluid will absolutely make a large difference. But that all depends on the type of pad you get and how much heat it can handle.

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