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What lug nut torque have you settled on?

Red65

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I'll continue to enjoy all the threads about stripped lug nuts, broken/cross-threaded studs etc in the future.
To be fair, a lot of those threads were made because of the garbage 2-piece lug nuts and people ramming on lug nuts with an impact nascar-style without starting it by hand. Aside from the 2-piece nut design, the results usually all have a common denominator: operator error
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Cory S

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To be fair, a lot of those threads were made because of the garbage 2-piece lug nuts and people ramming on lug nuts with an impact nascar-style without starting it by hand. Aside from the 2-piece nut design, the results usually all have a common denominator: operator error
93.89% of failures in ANYTHING usually is..... :)
 

smokescreens

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Well im glad this thread popped up. I could have sworn it was 115lbs and that what i went to. Guess when i get home im pulling out the tq wrench and finishing the job right.
 

EFI

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I'll continue to enjoy all the threads about stripped lug nuts, broken/cross-threaded studs etc in the future.
If you're applying the correct torque/clamping force and you're stripping lugnuts and/or cross-threading the studs then you're either doing it wrong or have inferior lugnuts.

I don't think there's anything dumber than lowering the required torque spec just so that you don't damage cheap inferior fasteners, especially when it comes to something as critical as wheels.

Not applying the correct torque on your windshield wiper nut is one thing. Not applying the correct torque on your wheels, especially on a performance car that is meant to be driven hard is a whole nother thing.
 

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WD Pro

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Six and a half Ugga Dugga’s with red loctite for me, works a treat and I’ve never had a loose wheel nut … :like:

For the open lug nut gang, I would still recommend six and a half Ugga Dugga’s, but skip the red loctite and go with touch of stick weld on the back of the nut … :like:

WD :like:
 

Paul McWhiskey

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Damn! Almost got me! I thought that calibrated torque wrench was on a lug nut!

So, how many pumps from fully collapsed does it take until the jack clicks or beeps to tell you that the axle nut is a proper torque??

Or, are you using a specific Snap Off extension?
 

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kz

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I run typically about 135 ft/lb with anti-seize (Permatex) on the threads. I also run 30mm of spacers in the front. Studs however are ARP, not stock.

Btw - when I pulled the hub using slide hammer, I put a bunch of anti-seize on the cylindrical mating surface before re-installing it.
 
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Dana Pants

Dana Pants

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Damn! Almost got me! I thought that calibrated torque wrench was on a lug nut!

So, how many pumps from fully collapsed does it take until the jack clicks or beeps to tell you that the axle nut is a proper torque??

Or, are you using a specific Snap Off extension?
I just keep pumping until the breaker bar goes righty loosey.

B028DE20-BC51-4CAC-A3D7-8C80D9C1506B.webp
 
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Dana Pants

Dana Pants

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Btw - when I pulled the hub using slide hammer, I put a bunch of anti-seize on the cylindrical mating surface before re-installing it.
My go-to these days is crc marine anti corrosion spray. Thank you project farm.
 

TrackMustang

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There is nothing controversial at all to using the right torque, meaning the one that Ford list
The issue is that most people are used to torque around 100 because most vehicles have historically used 1/2” or 12mm studs/bolts and not 14mm
If multiple people have multiple points of view, and different wheel/lug/nut manufacturers say different torque…
 

luc

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If multiple people have multiple points of view, and different wheel/lug/nut manufacturers say different torque…
What is not a controversy is that the studs are 14mm
What is not a controversy is that Ford say 150
What is not a controversy is that 14mm requires more torque than 1/2 or 12
What is not a controversy is that Ford know better than the people that want to see a controversy where there is none
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