forgestar cf5 lug nut torque spec

[Need4SpeedMotors]

My dealer told me to do 100 ft/lb even though the handbook said 150 ft/lb.

100 is more then enough

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[USPSALIMITED]

Its for your safety guys better being safe then having something occur that could have been prevented

As a service provider I think you would be nuts not to (bad pun intended).

I do it because it is very easy & gives me piece of mind.

I called Forgestar and explained that my manual said 150 ft-lbs but I was concerned because that seemed like a lot for the smaller diameter splined lug nuts I have for use with their wheels & was 50% + above their generic recommendation. The person I talked to said to torque to 150 ft-lbs, so now my book says 150 and the wheel dude says 150 but my gut likes 100, so maybe I'll do a coin flip.

Thanks to all for input.

 

[Barrel]

Split the difference and do 125?

 

[ridenfish39]

Split the difference and do 125?

LOL, that's what I will be doing when my Bathurst come in.

 

[Need4SpeedMotors]

well I mean we here at N4SM do 100 ft lbs and so far clean track record and every client has been more then happy. But you can split the difference lol

 

[USPSALIMITED]

130 was the magic number I went with.

The interesting part was that the lug nuts felt spooky loose on the first two wheels I swapped, like maybe something in the 30 foot lb range. The next two wheels I used the torque wrench to check and they broke loose at about 65 foot pounds.

I had had a tire shop that I've used for many years put all season rubber on the original pp wheels and remount about 4,000 miles ago. Perhaps they did not torque sufficiently or perhaps I just need to get in the habit of checking lug nut torque a few times after wheels are installed.

 

[smokinzx14r]

Weld racing wheels calls for 110 foot pounds on a 14mm 1.5 Lug nut for there RT-S wheels ..

 

[Side_Pce]

well I mean we here at N4SM do 100 ft lbs and so far clean track record and every client has been more then happy. But you can split the difference lol

Despite what the Ford manual says, from the factory my GT350 was torqued to 100 ft lbs give or take 10ft lbs. I installed lock nuts when I brought it home and re-torqued all to 110 ft lbs. Old thread, just thought I should share.

 

[DivineStrike]

I torque my cf5v's to 115ft/lbs, not sure I trust aftermarket wheels at OEM tq's. I know the studs are fine but just iffy about damaging the wheels.

 

[Optimum Performance]

14mm stud requires a lot more stretch to reach the same clamping loads. Bulge seat nut has a lot of surface area, I don't recommend anything but what the spec is. In the case of some wheels which do not use a conventional nut (Weld) follow what they say. We recommend 125Ft/lbs on our 1/2" ARP studs. Do what you want but I've checked my torqued wheels and found them lose torque after a single 20 minute track session. Yes they are still tight but not to spec.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Zombie thread

 

[Souldriver]

My dealer told me to do 100 ft/lb even though the handbook said 150 ft/lb.

I was going to ask about this since the manual looks to be extremely high at 150 ft/lb. I would think this may cause issues with the aluminum PP wheels too. I will most likely go to 100 and go from there probably settling around 125.

The car was at a ford dealer recently to look at brake squeal and groan so ill see what they set it to when taking it off.

 

[Machelen]

I was going to ask about this since the manual looks to be extremely high at 150 ft/lb. I would think this may cause issues with the aluminum PP wheels too. I will most likely go to 100 and go from there probably settling around 125.

The car was at a ford dealer recently to look at brake squeal and groan so ill see what they set it to when taking it off.

did you get any result from the dealer?

 

[Rebellion]

If you torque them, don't get a cheap wrench that only goes to 150lbs...never use a torque wrench at its limit!

I torque almost everything, even the strut tower bolts and jacking rails. The only part I didn't torque was the sto-n-sho. Engineers are too picky 'bout numbers, I call up the manufacturer if I don't find the number online or the instructions.

 

[Paul@PKAUTODESIGN]

If you torque them, don't get a cheap wrench that only goes to 150lbs...never use a torque wrench at its limit!

I torque almost everything, even the strut tower bolts and jacking rails. The only part I didn't torque was the sto-n-sho. Engineers are too picky 'bout numbers, I call up the manufacturer if I don't find the number online or the instructions.

We use a snap on trq wrench at the shop it's awesome

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