Aggressive Fitment Thread

[w000000]

What’s up every one? After doing 2 months worth of research this is the end result of the wheels and suspension set I got. Here is the details and some pictures.

Michelin pilot 4s
275/40/r19 in the rear
255/40/r19 in front
The tires are stretched just a tad.

ESR SR05 graphite color
19x10.5 in the rear +22 offset
19x9.5 in the front +22 offset

sport line lowering springs-by Eibach
1.5inch in the front
1.3 inch in the rear

I bought from CJ pony parts a 5mm spacer and a 1/8 of an inch spacer to make right at 8mm of space and the wheels fit perfectly!

i bought a pack of chrome lug nuts from orielly’s. The stock ones are to fat.

little bit of camber in the front and rear. It does rub without rolling the fenders. I haven’t rolled or pulled mine yet but plan on to here in the near future. Just from the tire going up

Hey there hope you're still around did you stack the two spacers you mentioned on top of each other in the front? Effectively making your fronts +14 offset?

Really like your car's fitment.

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[shogun32]

did you stack the two spacers you mentioned on top of each other in the front? Effectively making your fronts +14 offset?

not a good idea. Buy a 15mm and cut 1mm off the back with a lathe.

 

[w000000]

not a good idea. Buy a 15mm and cut 1mm off the back with a lathe.

I agree that its not a good idea, I was just trying to sort out his numbers there since he didnt say where the spacers went.

I have a set of Work VSXX from a previous car that I want to rebuild for this car and they would end up pretty close in specs to his. Although it'll be irrelevant if the barrels dont clear my brakes I haven't test fit them yet.

oh also his mention of a 5 plus an 1/8th would make them 8mm spacers by my math.

 

[AZ18yote]

With spacers you're also adding rotational weight. You're much better off just properly sizing and with correct offsets on your wheels from the start.

 

[w000000]

With spacers you're also adding rotational weight. You're much better off just properly sizing and with correct offsets on your wheels from the start.

my concern with my wheels wont be the offset but the pad depth on them, theyre A-disk work wheels aka standard height which im fairly certain won't clear brembos since they make R-disk for a reason.

 

[JohnnyGT]

not a good idea. Buy a 15mm and cut 1mm off the back with a lathe.

Already talked in person.

I'm asking everyone why it's not a good idea? Sticking with the universal rule of keep things simple, but why is it bad?

While I do plan to change them to a single piece, I borrowed some spacers from Shogun32 to push out my fronts some to avoid internal rubbing. A 3mm and a 5mm stacked on both sides.

I'm curious to know what's the possible failure point of stacking a couple plates?

 

[2morrow]

Already talked in person.

I'm asking everyone why it's not a good idea? Sticking with the universal rule of keep things simple, but why is it bad?

While I do plan to change them to a single piece, I borrowed some spacers from Shogun32 to push out my fronts some to avoid internal rubbing. A 3mm and a 5mm stacked on both sides.

I'm curious to know what's the possible failure point of stacking a couple plates?

I did this many years ago when I was super young and had my first Z car. What I found is several lugs had sheared while at highway speeds.

It could’ve been disastrous and luckily I learned that lesson without hurting myself or others.

 

[JohnnyGT]

I did this many years ago when I was super young and had my first Z car. What I found is several lugs had sheared while at highway speeds.

It could’ve been disastrous and luckily I learned that lesson without hurting myself or others.

Good to know.

My question is about stacking. What makes that worse than a one piece spacer?

Watched your vid about swaping in ARP studs. I'd like to do that too, but isnt the advantage for doing that is to load up spacer range? Same I'm doing but on the stock specs. Lug nuts have all of threads to marry to.

Stacking shims: why is this bad?

 

[JohnnyGT]

OK sorry. Your vid was about swapping rear wheels to front. so no spacers needed.

 

[2morrow]

OK sorry. Your vid was about swapping rear wheels to front. so no spacers needed.

Yes and no. Yes for ease of swapping wheels F/R. No because in order for that to work you'll need a 25 mil spacer. The ones I use is a hub centric single piece unit.

To your earlier question about stacking shims. That will drastically shorten lug life (and length lol) as the shims act like a cutting surface under load and with no mounting hub surface.

Let me try to describe; your wheel mounts to your hub ring. When you lose contact to that hub ring then all the forces are resting on your lugs. When you stack up a couple shims/washers then the surface of those pieces become a cutting surface when you torque down your wheels and as you drive. Your hub ring is only ~1/4" deep.

Hopefully my description makes sense. Good luck and let me know if you have any further questions.

 

[Hack]

To your earlier question about stacking shims. That will drastically shorten lug life (and length lol) as the shims act like a cutting surface under load and with no mounting hub surface.

Let me try to describe; your wheel mounts to your hub ring. When you lose contact to that hub ring then all the forces are resting on your lugs. When you stack up a couple shims/washers then the surface of those pieces become a cutting surface when you torque down your wheels and as you drive. Your hub ring is only ~1/4" deep.

Hopefully my description makes sense. Good luck and let me know if you have any further questions.

I'm not sure I agree with this, please discuss with me.

I think the hub ring has clearance to the wheel. That's why the wheel comes on and off relatively easily. It's not a lot of clearance, but it's clearance. So, I don't agree that the wheel rests on the hub. If the wheel rested on the hub it would be off center by that clearance distance. If that happened, there would be vibration as you drive down the road.

I think what happens is the hub gets the wheel in the right general position. Then the lug nuts have tapers on them. The wheel ends up centered on the lug nut tapers. The load is carried by a combination of the studs(through the lug nuts) and friction between the wheel and the hub. The hub ring doesn't touch the wheel when the wheel is mounted and I don't think the hub ring will carry any load at all (unless the lugs come loose).

Now when you introduce thin spacers, the load is still on the lugs and studs, but the location of the load is cantilevered outward away from the hub. I'm not sure about the frictional effects of having the wheel clamped against the hub vs. having a spacer in there. It depends on the spacer material and finish and whether the spacer is clean.

Generally I'm not sure if there's a difference between two 7 mm spacers and one 14 mm spacer. Definitely having a thin spacer will increase the chance of stud failure.

 

[2morrow]

I'm not sure I agree with this, please discuss with me.

I think the hub ring has clearance to the wheel. That's why the wheel comes on and off relatively easily. It's not a lot of clearance, but it's clearance. So, I don't agree that the wheel rests on the hub. If the wheel rested on the hub it would be off center by that clearance distance. If that happened, there would be vibration as you drive down the road.

I think what happens is the hub gets the wheel in the right general position. Then the lug nuts have tapers on them. The wheel ends up centered on the lug nut tapers. The load is carried by a combination of the studs(through the lug nuts) and friction between the wheel and the hub. The hub ring doesn't touch the wheel when the wheel is mounted and I don't think the hub ring will carry any load at all (unless the lugs come loose).

Now when you introduce thin spacers, the load is still on the lugs and studs, but the location of the load is cantilevered outward away from the hub. I'm not sure about the frictional effects of having the wheel clamped against the hub vs. having a spacer in there. It depends on the spacer material and finish and whether the spacer is clean.

Generally I'm not sure if there's a difference between two 7 mm spacers and one 14 mm spacer. Definitely having a thin spacer will increase the chance of stud failure.

Hub centric spacer(s) are definitely the way to go. I (personally) would do just one than two but that's just me.

The main point that I was driving here was also in @JohnnyGT question/comments about spacers/stacking shims. "Stacking shims: why is this bad?" as well as "OK sorry. Your vid was about swapping rear wheels to front. so no spacers needed.". Hence my comments.

I should've quoted both for clarity.

Either way, if one was to go about getting spacers, I would highly recommend the slip on style with a hub centric ring. It's so much easier.

 

[JohnnyGT]

Yes and no. Yes for ease of swapping wheels F/R. No because in order for that to work you'll need a 25 mil spacer. The ones I use is a hub centric single piece unit.

To your earlier question about stacking shims. That will drastically shorten lug life (and length lol) as the shims act like a cutting surface under load and with no mounting hub surface.

Let me try to describe; your wheel mounts to your hub ring. When you lose contact to that hub ring then all the forces are resting on your lugs. When you stack up a couple shims/washers then the surface of those pieces become a cutting surface when you torque down your wheels and as you drive. Your hub ring is only ~1/4" deep.

Hopefully my description makes sense. Good luck and let me know if you have any further questions.

Gotcha! That make sense. I appreciate your reply.

 

[shogun32]

Under sufficient bolt clamping torque and resulting load the plates should not twist. But instead of 2 clamping faces you now have 6. And since the spacers in question are quite smooth compared to the typical rough surface found on wheels and hubs you don't get the mechanical locking like before.

For street use the deceleration rates should be fairly mild and as long as torqued to spec it should hold without risking sheering lug bolts.

But even so I would feel more comfy with a single piece. But the thinest you can get those is 12mm. Unless you do surgery on the hub

 

[69boss]

So I have 10.5x20 +38 wheels in the rear with 305/r0/20 PS4s. I have -2.25 camber to get them to tuck and not rub while lowered on coilovers. I would prefer to have less camber so I don't wear out my tires too quickly because my tires were more expensive than my rims. I love these rims and don't want to get new ones. Can I machine the inside of the bolt circle to increase offset? Or maybe machine down the wheel hub to bring the wheel in further? Ideally I'd like to have -1 to -1.5 camber. Any suggestions, or am I just going to be stuck swapping out tires every 15k miles?

*second pic is before I lowered it.

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