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Noisy Ring & Pinion

NGOT8R

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I’ve never installed or worked on rear gear before, but I wonder if retorquing the pinion nut (in case it loosened up) to factory specs would help?

I have noticed a slight whine from the rear of my Bullitt on decel when slowing while coming to a stop and at light throttle application at highway speeds. As soon as I let off the gas, it goes away. The noise isn’t super loud, but I do notice it. Then again, I do have lots of hardcore rear suspension parts and hard durometer bushings.

Is there a possibility that transmission whine could be transferred through the driveline and appear as if it many be coming from the rear end?
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Some Random Guy

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Just out of curiosity, does the aluminum/auto vs iron/manual housings have any impact on this? There was a gentleman who has been professionally installing gears for most of his life that shared with me that, in his experience, the aluminum housings seem to experience more issues than the iron housings. I'm not sure what everyone's combo listed above is but Im just curious if there might be any connection. I know my 18 A10 gears chewed themselves up by 3K and I was mostly stock.
I come from the Jeep world and the new Dana Advantek axles are cast iron but still causing merry hell at experienced shops to the point some refuse to do them.
The impact is whether you use a case spreader. You can with iron, but don’t on aluminum. At least in Jeep axles.
I went through 2 failed setups from a major manufacturer direct before I gave up and did my own. Perfect since then. Now, Yukon/Standard and all their alternate brands don’t even go in the trunk of my vehicle. I tell my friends I won’t even help install them. To their credit, they did refund me for the 2 failures but refused to admit fault.
 

TnWHTMARE

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I come from the Jeep world and the new Dana Advantek axles are cast iron but still causing merry hell at experienced shops to the point some refuse to do them.
The impact is whether you use a case spreader. You can with iron, but don’t on aluminum. At least in Jeep axles.
I went through 2 failed setups from a major manufacturer direct before I gave up and did my own. Perfect since then. Now, Yukon/Standard and all their alternate brands don’t even go in the trunk of my vehicle. I tell my friends I won’t even help install them. To their credit, they did refund me for the 2 failures but refused to admit fault.
Interesting, thank you for the input!
 

schmeky

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The pinion is angle cut and when you think for a moment about what the physics are, the ring gear is trying to push the pinion out of the housing towards the driveshaft.

High HP and shock loads (like the dragstrip) could have the potential to crush/collapse the sleeve, loosing the pre-load and correct pinion depth.

All it takes is several thousands or less.
 

GT-DM

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Crush sleeves are not as good as they were yrs ago. (as hard I should say)

We did rear ends for decades professionally, & found it was better to put solid pinion spacers (& the solid style w/shims were our preferred type) in every build, except totally bone stock engine 3rd member's.

Crush sleeves in general were once much harder to Crush yrs ago vs last 10/20 yrs it seems.
I haven't done a Super 8.8" that I recall, so don't know what OD/ID diameter spacer needs to be.
Might hav to make one. We did on occasion.

This is a more common problem on drag cars than street/road race car 3rd member's.

If u need more help or info. Let me know.
We can giv u several other good tips if u like them.
Regards,
 

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Cory S

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Crush sleeves are not as good as they were yrs ago. (as hard I should say)

We did rear ends for decades professionally, & found it was better to put solid pinion spacers (& the solid style w/shims were our preferred type) in every build, except totally bone stock engine 3rd member's.

Crush sleeves in general were once much harder to Crush yrs ago vs last 10/20 yrs it seems.
I haven't done a Super 8.8" that I recall, so don't know what OD/ID diameter spacer needs to be.
Might hav to make one. We did on occasion.

This is a more common problem on drag cars than street/road race car 3rd member's.

If u need more help or info. Let me know.
We can giv u several other good tips if u like them.
Regards,
We had a machine shop make up 4 solid sleeves….. so far so good, but he hasn’t been to the drag strip yet. We also realized all his hard suspension upgrades probably contributed to the added noise by a large amount.

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GT-DM

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Looks good 👍

It's amazing what other noises from a chassis can do to mess w/us, to make our imagination thk its from a new rear build.

We had an extremely savvy life long hot rodder w/tons of money, who was absolutely convinced a rear end build we did, started making noise in his Tri Five Nomad wagon after about 500 miles.

We built a 100% new build on a $2.5k 3rd member setup.
He installed new 1.

Still had the same gear noise. AGAIN!
Not a single part including the new Nodular iron 3rd member case was reused.

Anyway, turned out, his Chinese front wheel bearings, that were new, echoed in the Nomad wagon cabin, as all the rear upholstery wasn't finished yet,
& everyone but us was convinced it was the rear end build. Again!
Till we jacked up bk of car & ran it.

So yeah, other things can make noise & fool us. Like suspension parts.

If we had used even 1 single part from the 1st build, he would hav still been convinced it was our parts & labor yet again.

It did sound like rear end noise.
Good luck!
 

Frendino

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1st time posting so orry if it's the wrong place for this. After oil and transmission service at dealer at 31K clicking started from the driver side rear wheel at low acceleration forward and reverse. Sound continues while driving but not as consistent. More pronounced when transmission is engaged in drive and reverse. Another harsh noise when making a hard right turn. Any help appreciated.

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