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Noisy Ring & Pinion

RBINCA

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Have a 2018 Mustang GT A10 PP with Procharger P-1X running E85. Bottom side mods are; Driveshaft Shop carbon fiber 1 piecedrive shaft, Driveshaft Shop 1400 HP rated axles, front is lowered 1" using Ford Performance street lowering springs, OEM springsin back, Viking Warrior shocks in back set at 4 compression & 10 rebound, Steeda stop the hop package including rear lower control arm spherical bearings, Steeda jacking rails, 17x10.5 Bracket Racer wheels mounted with 305/45/17 M/T ET Street R tires. All of the above mods were installed at the same time with 1500 miles on the clock.

In stock trim I made nine 1/4 mile passes with no noise from ring and pinion. After installing modifications I didn't even get through the tuning process, Lund, before the noise started. The noise increased exponentially after making three passes at the track. I'm talking loud, like you can not carry a conversation with someone in the car.

Replaced ring & pinion, bearings, seals, etc. put 350 easy miles on the car with no noise. Made three passes at the track and the noise is back! It's hard not to think that one or more of the after market items are causing this. Really don't know the best place to start to isolate the issue. Has anyone experienced or know someone that has experienced something like this?
Any constructive ideas?
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RBINCA

RBINCA

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Anthony 05 GT

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I my opinion, if you had the work done as described and the noise went away for a while it sounds like a bad install job on the new parts.
 

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Have you checked the following:

1) Driveshaft installation
2) Rear wheel bearings (NOT diff)

Describe the noise - other than just saying itā€™s loud... is it metal to metal contact, squealing, rumble, etc?
 

Anthony 05 GT

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Also, does the noise go away during deceleration or acceleration or is it constant?
 

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RBINCA

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Sounds like the typical ring and pinion whine when the lash is out of adjustment. The noise is not constant, changes at different speeds and goes away during acceleration and deceleration. Pretty sure it's not a bearing because not constant and not making a grinding sound. Everyone I've taken for a ride to get their opinion thinks its a ring and pinion issue. Very frustrating, gut feeling is caused by drive shaft. Talked and sent photos to Driveshaft Shop and they say everything looks good.
 

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Who did the work ? Did they get the pinion preload perfect ? What did the pattern look like when they set it up ? Is it just a kinda quiet whine at highway speeds , or is it loud and constant ?
 
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RBINCA

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Ford dealership did the install.As far preload and pattern don't have a clue. Makes most noise at 50-55 least at 65-70. Whine loud and constant until accelerating or decelerating.
 

Anthony 05 GT

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Take it back to them
 

Cobra Jet

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Ford dealership did the install.As far preload and pattern don't have a clue. Makes most noise at 50-55 least at 65-70. Whine loud and constant until accelerating or decelerating.
If the Dealership did the work and there is an issue, take it back; get either the Shop Foreman or the Tech to go on a drive with you. When you go on the drive, go where you can take it up to highway speeds, have all radio/accessories off and be sure to point out the timing (speed/rpm) when the noise occurs.

Donā€™t just drop it off without you going for a drive with the Shop Foreman or Tech - because it may only result in a ā€œNFā€ (no findings) if they canā€™t replicate it.
 

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Cory S

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My buddies car did this TWICE. Started howling bad after 4 runs at the drag strip. He put a brand new loaded 3.55 differential in. Quiet as a mouse for 1000 miles. Made 2 passes at the drag strip. On the way home, the brand new differential was HOWLINGā€¦.. Why are they losing pre-load?
 

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Just out of curiosity, does the aluminum/auto vs iron/manual housings have any impact on this? There was a gentleman who has been professionally installing gears for most of his life that shared with me that, in his experience, the aluminum housings seem to experience more issues than the iron housings. I'm not sure what everyone's combo listed above is but Im just curious if there might be any connection. I know my 18 A10 gears chewed themselves up by 3K and I was mostly stock.
 

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Does this differential use a crush sleeve for bearing pre-load?
 

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schmeky

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Then I would venture to guess this is the variable. Under very high loads I could see it loosing the pre-load.

May have to come up with a machined spacer and steel shims to get the pre-load dialed in and stabilized.

I have set up bunch of GM 12 bolt rears in the past and am familiar with the crush sleeve set up.
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