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What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

Crayon

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Honestly, looks better without the wrap, definitely much cleaner.
Thanks!! :) That's what I've been thinking all year so far. The wrap was textured and not smooth feeling either. :)
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dx2

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Three months after receiving the shifter parts from MGW I finally have found some time to installed the MGW Race Spec shifter. I did not remove the cat back nor drive shaft and consequently it took me 2 days because I could not get the top arm long bolt out. I was afraid I would break something so I stopped for the day. Eventually I forcefully pulled down the drive shaft using an additional lever to get it out. So I recommend to at least loosen the drive shaft a bit. There is enough room to reach all bolts. Sure, it's not convenient but it works without problem.
The dust boot was another issue but as per recommendation here in the forum to flip the dust boot inside out it became very easy to attach.

I must say using this shifter is a very much different shifting feeling. Especially with wide open throttle acceleration you can feel a lot of vibration from the engine and transmission when holding the shifter which is a good thing, connection to the transmission feels way more direct than before. With the OEM shifter all the NVH is absorbed by the chassis where the stock shifter is attached. There is no additional abnormal noise or heat when the light OEM dampener mat , the dark MGW dampener mat and the center console are installed but before I did that that I took a test drive without all of them installed, even without the dust boot to check if something is off before I put all of it together. Just a hint: Without the dust boot installed, you can hear more sound from the engine, transmission and exhaust but you will also have some unpleasant fumes, not from exhaust but from the engine, coming though the shifter opening.

The good thing after all this is that you can take your time and do it right and have enough time to check everything is correctly done. With a shop you don't know unless they are experienced with these rare or unusual installs and know what not to do. Also this install is something very worthwhile if you like working on your own car.

The synchronizer rings still seem to take their time to do their job, so next I will add BG Syncro Shift II to see if there is a difference. In this regard there was no difference compared to the OEM shifter.

I bought all shifter variations (long, short and flat stick) but my first impression is that flat stick shifter is similar in length to the short shifter and it looks fantastic.

The gear shifting reduction feels good with the short and flat stick. I might shorten the short stick like half an inch or so to see when shifting becomes a bit too hard. At least now with the MGW shifter installed you do not have the impression that that you will accidentally break something when shifting hard. There is almost no flex left.

One more thing that I will probably change is the the gripper spherical shift knob. The weight is good but they are a bit small. so I might look for a 35 - 65% larger shift knob.

While I was about to attach the center console I noticed a spare connector (see last image).
Does anyone have an idea what that used is for ? It's just sitting in a holder on the passenger side.

All in all a very great product. I fully recommend it if you want a more direct connection to the transmission and the possibility to swap between different handles easily.

mgw_shifter_done1.jpg


mgw_shifter_done2.jpg


mgw_shifter_done3.jpg


spare_connector.jpg
 

kiksbutt

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Three months after receiving the shifter parts from MGW I finally have found some time to installed the MGW Race Spec shifter. I did not remove the cat back nor drive shaft and consequently it took me 2 days because I could not get the top arm long bolt out. I was afraid I would break something so I stopped for the day. Eventually I forcefully pulled down the drive shaft using an additional lever to get it out. So I recommend to at least loosen the drive shaft a bit. There is enough room to reach all bolts. Sure, it's not convenient but it works without problem.
The dust boot was another issue but as per recommendation here in the forum to flip the dust boot inside out it became very easy to attach.

I must say using this shifter is a very much different shifting feeling. Especially with wide open throttle acceleration you can feel a lot of vibration from the engine and transmission when holding the shifter which is a good thing, connection to the transmission feels way more direct than before. With the OEM shifter all the NVH is absorbed by the chassis where the stock shifter is attached. There is no additional abnormal noise or heat when the light OEM dampener mat , the dark MGW dampener mat and the center console are installed but before I did that that I took a test drive without all of them installed, even without the dust boot to check if something is off before I put all of it together. Just a hint: Without the dust boot installed, you can hear more sound from the engine, transmission and exhaust but you will also have some unpleasant fumes, not from exhaust but from the engine, coming though the shifter opening.

The good thing after all this is that you can take your time and do it right and have enough time to check everything is correctly done. With a shop you don't know unless they are experienced with these rare or unusual installs and know what not to do. Also this install is something very worthwhile if you like working on your own car.

The synchronizer rings still seem to take their time to do their job, so next I will add BG Syncro Shift II to see if there is a difference. In this regard there was no difference compared to the OEM shifter.

I bought all shifter variations (long, short and flat stick) but my first impression is that flat stick shifter is similar in length to the short shifter and it looks fantastic.

The gear shifting reduction feels good with the short and flat stick. I might shorten the short stick like half an inch or so to see when shifting becomes a bit too hard. At least now with the MGW shifter installed you do not have the impression that that you will accidentally break something when shifting hard. There is almost no flex left.

One more thing that I will probably change is the the gripper spherical shift knob. The weight is good but they are a bit small. so I might look for a 35 - 65% larger shift knob.

While I was about to attach the center console I noticed a spare connector (see last image).
Does anyone have an idea what that used is for ? It's just sitting in a holder on the passenger side.

All in all a very great product. I fully recommend it if you want a more direct connection to the transmission and the possibility to swap between different handles easily.

mgw_shifter_done1.jpg


mgw_shifter_done2.jpg


mgw_shifter_done3.jpg


spare_connector.jpg
so basically no improvements in notchy shifting? I've heard mixed things on changing from DCT to another fluid. Although it may solve notchy shifting at lower speeds and cooler temp, due to lower or slippery viscosity, it may cause detrimental trans wear on the dog teeth at wide open and high blocker ring speeds.
 

ice445

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so basically no improvements in notchy shifting? I've heard mixed things on changing from DCT to another fluid. Although it may solve notchy shifting at lower speeds and cooler temp, due to lower or slippery viscosity, it may cause detrimental trans wear on the dog teeth at wide open and high blocker ring speeds.
Not an MGW user, but my notchiness was substantially reduced after switching to Motul Multi DCTF as some others have done on here. It's similar to the stock DCTF, but just slightly thicker (it's like low 7's cST compared to factory which is mid to high 6). My theory is that the unit works well with a quality oil in that thickness range, but the additive they put in with it from the factory to help the synchros wear in also adds extra drag which you can feel. It's not some night and day difference, but it was very much noticeable.

Also, I saw basically zero brass or metal particles in my OE fluid at 17K, so unless you beat the transmission like it owes you money, I wouldn't worry about trans wear regardless of which fluid you pick.
 

PopsMustang23

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I know I piosted recently but since I have lowered, added wheel spacers, added darker tint and tuned to the VPM 100 Octane. (probably going to buy the E85 tune) But here is how it looks now.

20220716_124019.jpg


20220716_124035.jpg


20220716_124058.jpg
 

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Spartan1

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Filled it up, had to debate between 89 and 93. We are taking an 8 day cruise next week that was paid for by my wife and Kroger gift cards, so we've had $1 off every fill up for the last few months, and will continue for the next 2.

I opted for the 89

IMG_20220718_124039073_HDR.webp
 

rxryanm

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Did a few things this weekend. In order - got my tires mounted for my drag wheels (anyone running D5s and have a lead on steel valve stems for them? Installer said the ones I bought on Amazon wouldn’t fit), took my roof spoiler off (had been lifting since I installed it, so tired of dealing with that), and finally installed the tank for my air suspension. Now I just need to actually get the suspension installed.
2BBA8216-2714-4E03-AF7F-F9A3F1F7C38B.webp

89D496A6-9699-4219-B206-3BD523019302.jpeg

31207340-A81C-4868-B992-0C8807347E69.jpeg
 

Food847

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Careful, these things are, as I'm sure you've found out, STUPID slippery when new. I got a different brand, but virtually identical and there's been a lot of times my foot slid way into the gas or past the brake pedal.
What brand did you go with?
 

dx2

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so basically no improvements in notchy shifting? I've heard mixed things on changing from DCT to another fluid. Although it may solve notchy shifting at lower speeds and cooler temp, due to lower or slippery viscosity, it may cause detrimental trans wear on the dog teeth at wide open and high blocker ring speeds.
Well, I would say if you shift a gear too quickly, you can now feel the gear teeth hitting on each other more pronounced then before with OEM shifter.

Because the MGW shifter is transmission-only mounted, you will NOT once in a while have a lockout or notching because of misalignment of the OEM shifter body. Shifting is more consistent. It either does give a notch (gear grinding) or not at all depending on how fast you rip through the gears.

If you leave enough time, there' no notching.

I agree that changing to another viscority will probably have an effect on wear. I suppose the transmission fluid plays its part on how quickly the synchros will align during shifting. I'll do some reading first to find out more.
 

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GT Pony

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While I was about to attach the center console I noticed a spare connector (see last image). Does anyone have an idea what that used is for ? It's just sitting in a holder on the passenger side.

spare_connector.jpg
Was there a matching side to that connector?
 

dx2

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GMB Racing

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if you have a manual trans, that is the connecot for the auto lights etc
 
 








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