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What did you do to your S550 Mustang today?!

ay1820

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absolutely

did this on a previous car, and did a recheck on the torque after setting ... and got a couple more turns. rechecked again and snapped the stud ... on 3 studs. (slow learner).
Replaced all 5 studs as they had been stretched (and broken.) Never lube/antiseize your wheel studs.
However I have also applied antisieze to the back of the wheels (lightly) after that one time I had to get creative to get a wheel to break away from the hub.
I had an old beater back in the early 80s with crappy drum brakes in the rear. The studs and lug nuts used to always rust and seize. I'd have to use a big breaker bar to get them loose and had at
least one stud snap (40 years ago, so can't remember how many for sure). I finally started putting a bit of molly grease on the threads and never had another problem. Same car used to also seize up the the rim (cheep steel wheel), so would apply a thin film to the back of the wheel and around the wheel locating bore too. Only car I ever this problem with though.
 

JohnnyGT

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Washed it along with the rest of the fleet; GF’s car reeks of burning coolant. Good thing we're shopping for an M6 or 8 series vert.

IMG_1887.jpeg
 

tosha

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If your wheel ever get "glued" to a hub, remove all lug nuts, then thread one back on just enough to prevent wheel from falling off. Take a piece of 2×6 and gently whack inner side of the tire sidewall with it. Don't hit the rim itself. One light punch is typically enough to unstick it.

I saw some people here advising to put loctite on wheel studs, others now sugges to put anti-seize there. A lot of moronic ideas flowing around :crazy:
 

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JohnnyGT

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I'm in love with the '22 M4 Competition.
Wow, what a gorgeous car,....especially in that Wildberry color.
She’s all for the bigger bodies. Likely gonna get an 850i xdrive vert.
 

mrgooden

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My Gorilla (61148BCX)wheel nuts came the other week. Finally had time today in the sunshine to fit them. So pleased. The originals were on their last legs, one in particular I had to hammer on a socket to get it off. I didn't do this to them but guessing past owner just wasn't careful.

Finally I can put them on / off with one type of socket (21mm) without them being all different shapes and sizes. 😁

Gorilla-Wheel-Nuts-1.webp


Gorilla-Wheel-Nuts-2.webp


Gorilla-Wheel-Nuts-3.webp


Gorilla-Wheel-Nuts-Rounded.jpg


Gorilla-Wheel-Nuts-Rounded2.webp


Gorilla-Wheel-Nuts-Font.webp


Gorilla-Wheel-Nuts-Side.jpg


Much better. :)
If your wheel ever get "glued" to a hub, remove all lug nuts, then thread one back on just enough to prevent wheel from falling off. Take a piece of 2×6 and gently whack inner side of the tire sidewall with it. Don't hit the rim itself. One light punch is typically enough to unstick it.

I saw some people here advising to put loctite on wheel studs, others now sugges to put anti-seize there. A lot of moronic ideas flowing around :crazy:
You mean it is not advisable to use red loctite on lug nuts?

Richard
 

Mike Pfeifer

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Washed it along with the rest of the fleet; GF’s car reeks of burning coolant. Good thing we're shopping for an M6 or 8 series vert.

IMG_1887.jpeg
If your talking about the 650 with a coolant smell, 99% chance it’s the hoses feeding the turbos. It’s actually an easy repair if you can get some hose material. The “proper” repair is to replace the entire lines, metal and all, but it will do it again in time. The crimp type hose clamps start to loosen with the heat from the turbos and will seep, then eventually leak. People also tend to overtighten the hose clamps which makes them leak faster as well.
 

JohnnyGT

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If your talking about the 650 with a coolant smell, 99% chance it’s the hoses feeding the turbos. It’s actually an easy repair if you can get some hose material. The “proper” repair is to replace the entire lines, metal and all, but it will do it again in time. The crimp type hose clamps start to loosen with the heat from the turbos and will seep, then eventually leak. People also tend to overtighten the hose clamps which makes them leak faster as well.
It’s a 2012 650i
Pretty sure it’s a leak from an intercooler that will require the motor to be dropped. At least that’s what she was told.
I did find guides on the leak you’re talking about. I would DIY it, if I could.
 

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Mike Pfeifer

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It’s a 2012 650i
Pretty sure it’s a leak from an intercooler that will require the motor to be dropped. At least that’s what she was told.
I did find guides on the leak you’re talking about. I would DIY it, if I could.
The intercoolers (there’s 2 of them) do not require dropping the engine. In fact there’s no coolant leak that I can think of that would require that. Now, if there’s other oil leaks as well, that’s a different story…
 

JohnnyGT

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The intercoolers (there’s 2 of them) do not require dropping the engine. In fact there’s no coolant leak that I can think of that would require that. Now, if there’s other oil leaks as well, that’s a different story…
Cool thanks for the info. I’m just going off second hand info. I’d like to fix it for her, but she’s selling regardless.
Will have a new 6 or 8 series soon…with a warranty 😂
 

Mike Pfeifer

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Cool thanks for the info. I’m just going off second hand info. I’d like to fix it for her, but she’s selling regardless.
Will have a new 6 or 8 series soon…with a warranty 😂
If it’s going to be new, then it will be an 8 series. The M850 is a fun and sexy car. Has a fairly rowdy exhaust (for a factory luxury car) if you push the shifter to the left for sport and also hit the sport button. I think they sound better than the M8, personally.
 

ti-dé

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put the mustang back on the road today, I did about 125 kilometers.yesterday my focus 2013 still has a check engine (imediat transmission service)still the faulty transmission module.was replaced 7 months ago
 

rcald

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I missed you by a couple of days, was there on Wednesday.
Jeeze, Moving to Stuart in a couple of weeks, maybe meet up this weekend?
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