Engine Upgrades for F/I

[SlowyoteJay]

So I know there are a lot of forums about engine upgrades to handle boost but I haven’t found any about the combo in question. I have a 19 Mustang GT premium non-pp and I was compiling parts before going boost. My question is how do you guys feel about molnar connecting rods with je pistons? If I change my cr before going boost (let’s say from standard 12:1 to 11:1) roughly how much power loss would that be?

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[engineermike]

Compression ratio loses 3-5% efficiency/torque for every number, reducing at the higher end. In other words, in the 12/1 range it’s closer to 3%. The torque can be gained back plus some through the use of higher boost and more spark timing. When knock limited, the rule of thumb is that one compression ratio number allows 4 more psi or 4 more degrees timing, so you do the math.

FYI you can use standard 12/1 pistons and a thick cometic head gasket to hit 11/1 if you want to use standard CR pistons.

 

[Jackson1320]

You don’t need anything to go boosted. Now if you want to run 15psi that’s different
Molnar rods are fine

 

[HKusp]

So, what are your power goals that you feel like you need to modify your engine before boost?

 

[SlowyoteJay]

So, what are your power goals that you feel like you need to modify your engine before boost?

Well it’s not a matter of need, is more of I want to. Just the “basics” though (pistons, connecting rods, camshafts). Power goals im looking for 1,000whp more than likely going twins.

 

[SlowyoteJay]

Well it’s not a matter of need, is more of I want to. Just the “basics” though (pistons, connecting rods, camshafts). Power goals im looking for 1,000whp more than likely going twins.

Figured I can get supporting mods while the engine is being messed with and have it done all at once.

 

[HKusp]

Gotya. Sounds good. Enjoy.

 

[Stephen@lethal]

So I know there are a lot of forums about engine upgrades to handle boost but I haven’t found any about the combo in question. I have a 19 Mustang GT premium non-pp and I was compiling parts before going boost. My question is how do you guys feel about molnar connecting rods with je pistons? If I change my cr before going boost (let’s say from standard 12:1 to 11:1) roughly how much power loss would that be?

You wouldn't technically need to drop the CR at that level but its always a good idea to add a good buffer as you can always pick up the slack with a couple more pounds of boost. I did a couple of Coyote short blocks myself and had great success with Manley rods but Molnar aren't bad either. JE pistons are solid as well.

If you're just trying to reach 1k, keep it simple, but make sure to get ARP bolts/studs as those will be important for holding it together with a decent level of boost with twins. If you have any questions about short block builds, feel free to give me a shout anytime. Lethalperformance.com

 

[SlowyoteJay]

You wouldn't technically need to drop the CR at that level but its always a good idea to add a good buffer as you can always pick up the slack with a couple more pounds of boost. I did a couple of Coyote short blocks myself and had great success with Manley rods but Molnar aren't bad either. JE pistons are solid as well.

If you're just trying to reach 1k, keep it simple, but make sure to get ARP bolts/studs as those will be important for holding it together with a decent level of boost with twins. If you have any questions about short block builds, feel free to give me a shout anytime. Lethalperformance.com

When you say simple, what do you mean? OPG, rods, pistons, and bolts/studs? Or something else?

 

[Stephen@lethal]

When you say simple, what do you mean? OPG, rods, pistons, and bolts/studs? Or something else?

Correct, no need for sleeves or much machine work to be done to make those numbers safely.

 

[jayman33]

We've done quite a few engine builds with TKM and a few other machine shops for the coyote platform. With that said, it all depends on what power adder you go with. The Rods and pistons, you'd be surprised, but can hold a good bit. If you want to make around 900-1000 and you decide you want to run a procharger, double keying your crank would definitely be a good idea.

Whipple, vmp, Paxton, Vortech, roush. 800RWHP range you're good if running E85 and wanting longevity. Anything more, I'd recommend head studs. If you're wanting to run E85 you'll need a fuel system. Fore innovations is our go to for fuel systems, they're pretty much the brand that every other company strives to be.

As far as dropping compression, no need. The last thing you want to do is up the boost on your blower and engine only to make the same amount of power. Defeats the purpose and you're only adding undue stress on the blower system and motor.

We just did a Gen5 3.0 whipple, fore fuel system, FIC1000's, E85 with lund tuning on a 2017 (opg/ CS always) and made 825RWHP on a 3.625 pulley. We were definitely surprised by the numbers.

We also just knocked out a roush 2.65, max cooling kit, Ortiz tuning, FIC1000's, Boost a pump on 93 octane and made 714rwhp and our dyno is typically stingy.

Let us know if we can help you out, we'd love to earn your business. We've done this firsthand and know a thing or two on these setups!

www.hypermotive.com #veteranowned

 

[LSchicago]

So, what are your power goals that you feel like you need to modify your engine before boost?

You don’t need anything to go boosted. Now if you want to run 15psi that’s different
Molnar rods are fine

I'm running 15# now on the stock engine, going to 17# soon. Just looking for 900RW which should be fine. If not, BOOM!

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