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BMAGOO
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2017
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- 8
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- 270
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- 312
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- Alberta, Canada
- Vehicle(s)
- 2016 Mustang GT/CS, 2016 Explorer Sport, 2015 Ram 1500 Sport, 1968 Firebird
- Vehicle Showcase
- 2
Only 6 months that's terrible! Hopefully you get your issues taken care of. Sucks you need to go a different route with a programmer.I've had it hooked up nearly every day since I got it in January of this year. Bought the car new last October.
Up until the beginning of July it was on a window mount in the left corner. It crapped out once and seemed "dead" but when I hooked it back up to a laptop and provided power though the USB port it worked again as normal; powered off the OBDII port.
July 2nd I installed a dash mount and put it in the center air vent spot (non PP car obviously).
I like to run the AC with the windows down in the summer. It get's extremely humid around here, and I noticed significant condensation around those vents a few times since mounting it there. I assumed the PCB is coated to prevent a short. Maybe I was very wrong. Or maybe it was just a unit that was never going to last anyway.
IDK how or why it died, but it did. And now I'm stuck with a car that is running like shit and can't take it to Ford to see why as they'll just blame it on the tune without even checking it out ( I have a friend in a similar situation but with broken shift forks. Ford won't touch it with a non OEM tune). That said, it could be the tune too. Although I've had the FF tune loaded for a few months now and the car was fine up until around the time the nGuage died.
I have mine mounted in the left pod. I've actually never used my a/c or actually even used the fan blower ever. Lol. I only drive it for pleasure use about 5 months of the year. Only have about 3200 km's on it now. I have my '68 Firebird to cruise around also plus 2 other dd vehicles. The driver's are so bad around here that it's got to the point where I don't enjoy driving anymore to be honest. I'm not switching between tunes so I might just disconnect my ngauge and put the vent back in. It's cool and all seeing the different gauges but everything is looking normal so not much need to use it daily.
The Demon
Well-Known Member
Getting the new wheels and tires put on tomorrow. Hopefully posting pics tomorrow afternoon. Everybody let me know your thoughts.
Mach VII
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- Berkshire Hills, MA
- First Name
- John
- Vehicle(s)
- 2019 Mustang GT 401A, 1989 Lincoln Mk VII LSC
Did 1st oil change ($25!), added UPR oil drain valve and completed addition of PP1 bracing in front by installing lower brace and cover...
cactus_kid
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- Michael
- Vehicle(s)
- '21 GT (see sig)
You're going off roading ?
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cactus_kid
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- Michael
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- '21 GT (see sig)
So, while I'm waiting for the mother ship to do its thing and build my car, I'm looking at Mustang porn ................ To many venders, not enough money ! 
Mach VII
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- John
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- 2019 Mustang GT 401A, 1989 Lincoln Mk VII LSC
You have time, sell a kidney or lot's of blood...So, while I'm waiting for the mother ship to do its thing and build my car, I'm looking at Mustang porn ................ To many venders, not enough money !
cactus_kid
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- Michael
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- '21 GT (see sig)
Actually, I'm bogarting funds for the Roush pkg that Granger sells. They will install it when my car is shipped from Flat Rock.
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- Joined
- Sep 29, 2016
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- Northern Virginia
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- 2019 PP1 GT Kona
- Banned
- #45,446
These are my observations on modding a Magneride car.
First; I'm a sensitive little bitch, so the perceived changes I'll be gushing about some may not think such a big deal. And this is also about DDing the car on normal roads, doing normal driving, and not track stuff.
This morning I did the Steeda Stop-The-Hop Starter kit, vertical links with poly bushings, and their G-Trac K-brace. I also got an alignment that adjusted some slight front end toe out, to a slight toe in.
Hoo. Lee. Fuq. What a difference.
I had done the same IRS stuff on my 2016 PP1 car, so I knew what I was getting into and could expect. But I had also done Steeda's adjustable shocks and struts at the same time, so there's always a bit of a question as to which parts/mods made what sort of changes. And the same goes here.....I did it all in one shot, so I can only explain what the over-all difference is.
When I bought this car, I didn't really think it needed the Steeda stuff. But over the time I've owned it, I've gotten sicker and sicker with the wiggle-wiggle-wiggle-wiggle of the back end. And with Magneride, the fucking wiggle (FW) was somehow more obvious and annoying. If the car was in Normal mode, it was all over the road L to R (horizontally), as well as up & down. So to stop all that non-sense, into Track mode the MR goes.....
Which then makes the FW even more noticeable. With less up & down suspension movement in Track mode, the FW became even more annoying, more specifically noticeable.......so it had to go.
And the FW meant that when driving on crowned roads, the rear of the car steered the whole fucking car (FC). Top gear at 65 MPH, mash throttle and the FC would move into the lane to the right. Off the throttle and the FC would move back to the left one lane. It was really that bad on one particular freeway that has crown, and in general power ON sent the FC to the right, and releasing the throttle would steer the FC to the left.
Now, the FW is gone. And the FC tracks straight and true without regard to throttle. The car is absolutely planted, stable, and over-all just 100% more solid. It's feels like the spring rates have been doubled, especially in back.
Other observations;
-The trans shifts better. Evidently the cradle lock-out really helps.
-A bit of a rattle in the back end has disappeared.
-There is slightly better front end/steering feel. Not dramatically so, but at least some improvement.
-It feels as if the MR can now finally do it's job properly. As if before all the mods, the MR was trying to stop the suspension moving in several different axis, and now it just has to deal with up & down, as it always should have.
-I can now drive the car in Normal mode without being annoyed to death by the back end doing whatever the hell it wanted to at any given moment.
I haven't pushed the car yet, but the cruising mode changes are tremendous. Well worth the $1K spent in parts and labor. This is the way the car should have come from the factory, and I should have done these mods when I first bought the car.
First; I'm a sensitive little bitch, so the perceived changes I'll be gushing about some may not think such a big deal. And this is also about DDing the car on normal roads, doing normal driving, and not track stuff.
This morning I did the Steeda Stop-The-Hop Starter kit, vertical links with poly bushings, and their G-Trac K-brace. I also got an alignment that adjusted some slight front end toe out, to a slight toe in.
Hoo. Lee. Fuq. What a difference.
I had done the same IRS stuff on my 2016 PP1 car, so I knew what I was getting into and could expect. But I had also done Steeda's adjustable shocks and struts at the same time, so there's always a bit of a question as to which parts/mods made what sort of changes. And the same goes here.....I did it all in one shot, so I can only explain what the over-all difference is.
When I bought this car, I didn't really think it needed the Steeda stuff. But over the time I've owned it, I've gotten sicker and sicker with the wiggle-wiggle-wiggle-wiggle of the back end. And with Magneride, the fucking wiggle (FW) was somehow more obvious and annoying. If the car was in Normal mode, it was all over the road L to R (horizontally), as well as up & down. So to stop all that non-sense, into Track mode the MR goes.....
Which then makes the FW even more noticeable. With less up & down suspension movement in Track mode, the FW became even more annoying, more specifically noticeable.......so it had to go.
And the FW meant that when driving on crowned roads, the rear of the car steered the whole fucking car (FC). Top gear at 65 MPH, mash throttle and the FC would move into the lane to the right. Off the throttle and the FC would move back to the left one lane. It was really that bad on one particular freeway that has crown, and in general power ON sent the FC to the right, and releasing the throttle would steer the FC to the left.
Now, the FW is gone. And the FC tracks straight and true without regard to throttle. The car is absolutely planted, stable, and over-all just 100% more solid. It's feels like the spring rates have been doubled, especially in back.
Other observations;
-The trans shifts better. Evidently the cradle lock-out really helps.
-A bit of a rattle in the back end has disappeared.
-There is slightly better front end/steering feel. Not dramatically so, but at least some improvement.
-It feels as if the MR can now finally do it's job properly. As if before all the mods, the MR was trying to stop the suspension moving in several different axis, and now it just has to deal with up & down, as it always should have.
-I can now drive the car in Normal mode without being annoyed to death by the back end doing whatever the hell it wanted to at any given moment.
I haven't pushed the car yet, but the cruising mode changes are tremendous. Well worth the $1K spent in parts and labor. This is the way the car should have come from the factory, and I should have done these mods when I first bought the car.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2020
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- California
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- Brandon
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- 19gt ..19 ss 72 chevelle
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- #45,447
I got a wickerbill for my performance pack wing that I'm gonna install,also a gt 500 rear diffuser, and few other goodies.
Rael
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- 2022 Mach 1 HP Tremec
What!? You couldn't open the boxes before taking the pictures?
(Kidding.)
(Kidding.)
PKs
PK's
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- Peter
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- 2018 GT Fastback
Looking nice Brandon. Your rear light covers look interesting. Where are they from.I got a wickerbill for my performance pack wing that I'm gonna install,also a gt 500 rear diffuser, and few other goodies.
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