Built short block rpg

[Jed S.]

Nevermind I just watched the video.. looks like he was making to much power for the stock rods and thr stock rods let go.

He yeeted his rods cause he didn’t do a fuel system as well. He’s only one guy that had issues out of many many that go low 9s and even 8s. I’ll be the guinea pig lol. I’m going 1300whp.

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[80FoxCoupe]

I'm just scared to make over 1000hp without sleeves. Stangmode guy blew his shit up making over a 1000 wheel.

Dont be scared.

 

[robmustang201528]

Dont be scared.

Lmaooooo hahah

 

[09jsw]

Nevermind I just watched the video.. looks like he was making to much power for the stock rods and thr stock rods let go.

Yea he was being stupid. Something about a lack of fuel too I believe.
I’m actually picking up my gt500 block this week.
I’m not messing with sleeves for the cost. So I’ll likely be selling my gen 2 short block.

 

[robmustang201528]

Yea he was being stupid. Something about a lack of fuel too I believe.
I’m actually picking up my gt500 block this week.
I’m not messing with sleeves for the cost. So I’ll likely be selling my gen 2 short block.

I'm thinking about going that route. RPG has a gen 3 5.2 block rods and pistions. They say it can handle 1400. The gen3 5.2 block is the predator block right?

 

[09jsw]

I'm thinking about going that route. RPG has a gen 3 5.2 block rods and pistions. They say it can handle 1400. The gen3 5.2 block is the predator block right?

How much is that going for?

no the predator is it’s own thing. Slightly stronger then the gen 3 gt350 5.2.
the price is only 100$ more for gt500 predator so why not.

 

[Jed S.]

How much is that going for?

no the predator is it’s own thing. Slightly stronger then the gen 3 gt350 5.2.
the price is only 100$ more for gt500 predator so why not.

Ahhh, no. The bare blocks are the same, gen 3 5.2s. “Shortblocks” are not, predator is 9.5:1 compression (imma puke lol) while the gt350 is 12:1 (I believe).

 

[Jackson1320]

The strongest block of the options you are considering would be a sleeved Gen 2 with the longer 12 mm head studs . Sleeves would be at least $2K . L&M charges $1K for the 12 mm conversion ... so that’s at least $3800($3K in the block work +cylinder supports +$800 for new block )....but @Jackson1320 says he has had the machining for 12 mm head bolts done for free.
The strongest sleeved block would be a predator -$3800 -($1800 +$2K sleeving) which is already machined for the longer 12 mm head studs .... and has the cast in cylinder supports .
It seems to me that’s the best option if you want a sleeved block (not sure how a sleeved Gen 3 block would compare .. if it’s comparable then that would be the best/cheapest option at less than $3K)

For a non sleeved block the predator ($1800)that is already machined for the 12 mm head bolts, has the cast in cylinder supports , but a closed deck , would be the better option (but more expensive ) than the unsleeved Gen 3 coyote -$850(also has cylinder supports/machines for 12 mm head studs but has more of an open deck).
IF you have to pay $1K to have the Gen 2 block ($800) machined for the 12 mm head studs ... and then add cylinder supports I think you might as well get the stronger predator block for the same price .

based on your answers I’m willing to bet you’ve never actually built a coyote. Sounds like you have just read online what you should do without any real experience.

A sleeved block doesn’t need cylinder supports. A predator block doesn’t need sleeves or anything else to make 1500+hp so why sleeve it. All coyote block with sleeves and 12mm head studs will be the same strength.

 

[Jackson1320]

Nevermind I just watched the video.. looks like he was making to much power for the stock rods and thr stock rods let go.

All you need is a stock gen3 coyote shortblock with arp head studs and you will be fine at 1000 unless you are racing it and maxing it out every day. If you want a little insurance put Mahle drop in pistons and some rods. For 3500 you can have a engine that can sit on 1000 without even sweating. Don’t over think it. A sleeved block is normally used for someone that is trying to push the limits as far as possible or a race engine and not a daily driver. Some people have sleeved shortblocks on street cars but 99.9% of mustangs driving around do not

 

[robmustang201528]

All you need is a stock gen3 coyote shortblock with arp head studs and you will be fine at 1000 unless you are racing it and maxing it out every day. If you want a little insurance put Mahle drop in pistons and some rods. For 3500 you can have a engine that can sit on 1000 without even sweating. Don’t over think it. A sleeved block is normally used for someone that is trying to push the limits as far as possible or a race engine and not a daily driver. Some people have sleeved shortblocks on street cars but 99.9% of mustangs driving around do not

I still plan on driving this car on small trips.. mustang week, the mountains, weekends, rolls on the highway and some track. I want to be able to make a 1000 wheel with room to grow if need be and ride around with a 850 at the wheel. I'll probably out 15 to 20,000 miles on my car a year. If I get a motor with sleeves... will that cause more wear on the sleeves? I don't want to have to refresh sleeves every 3 years. I'm not a machanic and my money does not grow on trees lol. Got damn... I just wanna go fast without fucking shit up lol.

 

[Jackson1320]

Sooo... the must have's.. for a built block to make more then 1000hp on a continuous basis without catastrophic issues...if I'm going to use a gen 2 motor are

1. 12mm head bolts ( block will need to be machined. Prevent the block from cracking around the head bolts)
2. Sleeves ( strengthen the block)
3. 4032 pistions( for reliability vs the 2618)
4. Pistion coating ( scavenging heat out of the motor)
5. H BEAM TUFF RODS( I can't afford I-beam lol)

They say the stock crank and main caps are very strong.

Is there anything I'm missing relating to the shortblock build?

Thanks for the help guys. I'm trying to learn as a go.. I'm only trying to do this shit once. Realistically... I would like to make 900 plus but if I ever wanted to turn it up.. I'll have room to grow. But reliability is the number one thing I'm concerned about.

I’m speaking from experience and not want I was told or read online. I have built more than a few coyotes and I built the 900whp gen2 coyote that I daily. It has cylinder/block supports and that’s all. No sleeves no 12mm studs that they say you have to have.
All you need for a gen2 is cylinder supports. Tap for 12mm head studs is a good idea though. Now that you have a 1000+Hp block you need some other stuff

 

[Jackson1320]

I still plan on driving this car on small trips.. mustang week, the mountains, weekends, rolls on the highway and some track. I want to be able to make a 1000 wheel with room to grow if need be and ride around with a 850 at the wheel. I'll probably out 15 to 20,000 miles on my car a year. If I get a motor with sleeves... will that cause more wear on the sleeves? I don't want to have to refresh sleeves every 3 years. I'm not a machanic and my money does not grow on trees lol. Got damn... I just wanna go fast without fucking shit up lol.

There’s no reason to have to do anything to the sleeves. The stock block has sleeves and nowhere does it say that they need any kind of work or maintenance. They can go 200,000+ miles

 

[robmustang201528]

There’s no reason to have to do anything to the sleeves. The stock block has sleeves and nowhere does it say that they need any kind of work or maintenance. They can go 200,000+ miles

That's true. I haven't heard of anybody cracking a sleeve but I've heard of stock gen 2 cracking the block at the head bolts with the stock 11mm bolts.

 

[Jackson1320]

The reason some coyote engines hold 1000 and the next blows at 800 is tuner. Even a built engine will blow before a stock one if you don’t listen to your tuner or if you have a crappy tuner

 

[robmustang201528]

Stock 11mm headbolts

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