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Road Course / AutoX Spring / Shock / Strut / Sways Package

Dana Pants

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It’s pretty common to flip tires on the rim due to edge wear. My snow tires eat the inside edge and my summer tires eat the outside edge... you just can’t win sometimes.

what’s important is to catch the issue before the tires are destroyed.
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Brian@BMVK

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It’s pretty common to flip tires on the rim due to edge wear. My snow tires eat the inside edge and my summer tires eat the outside edge... you just can’t win sometimes.

what’s important is to catch the issue before the tires are destroyed.
Most performance tires are asymmetric, and cannot (should not) be flipped. This is one thing I love about RE71Rs...only directional, not asymmetric.
 

shogun32

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"Streetable threshold" sounds like where I want to be.
That's what I have Steeda DR + Steeda pro-Action adjustable + steeda front bar and the rest of the Steeda/BMR/Whiteline bushing, bearing, bracing upgrades. I'm perfectly happy driving it on the street. The car tells me I drive like a p*ssy though. The front spring rate is too high (imbalanced with rear IMO) which I've had to tamp down with rebound settings. Sometimes the rear rebound behavior is good, other times I get an extra 2 cycles going over bigger dips.

I don't see how it matters what your car config is WRT classes and such. Nobody's racing for money or trophies, just the clock. So what if you're the slowest car out there in 'C' if you're setting personal bests?
 

Bluemustang

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That's what I have Steeda DR + Steeda pro-Action adjustable + steeda front bar and the rest of the Steeda/BMR/Whiteline bushing, bearing, bracing upgrades. I'm perfectly happy driving it on the street. The car tells me I drive like a p*ssy though. The front spring rate is too high (imbalanced with rear IMO) which I've had to tamp down with rebound settings. Sometimes the rear rebound behavior is good, other times I get an extra 2 cycles going over bigger dips.

I don't see how it matters what your car config is WRT classes and such. Nobody's racing for money or trophies, just the clock. So what if you're the slowest car out there in 'C' if you're setting personal bests?
Have you thought about changing out those front springs? Just curious.
 

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shogun32

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Have you thought about changing out those front springs? Just curious.
yes, I'm sitting on Steeda's coil-over version of the shocks with 250 and 200 rate in abox. I also have the back-half of the SP083 and GT350R rear springs in a box. I really need to drive the car in anger before I jump in to change parts.
 

Bluemustang

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yes, I'm sitting on Steeda's coil-over version of the shocks with 250 and 200 rate in abox. I also have the back-half of the SP083 and GT350R rear springs in a box. I really need to drive the car in anger before I jump in to change parts.
250/1000 is about perfect IMO. If I were buying coilovers right now in my situation I'd probably use those rate. I'd say the 250 and rear BMR would work very well.
But yeah often it's difficult to judge a setup until you drive it real hard. I really do think those rates are a great all around handling setup and not as stiff as some people believe. It's good to start off with a pretty balanced setup right off the bat because then you can fine tune with sway bars and alignment.
 

shogun32

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yes, I'm sitting on Steeda's coil-over version of the shocks with 250 and 200 rate in abox
250/1000 is about perfect IMO.
As to the 250 spring, Steeda is suggesting that after further driver and track testing that one should use the 275 rate and 7" long spring (with helper) instead of the 250/8" for reduced opportunity of coil bind. They've since removed the 250 option from the website.
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-front-coilovers.html
 

TeeLew

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As to the 250 spring, Steeda is suggesting that after further driver and track testing that one should use the 275 rate and 7" long spring (with helper) instead of the 250/8" for reduced opportunity of coil bind. They've since removed the 250 option from the website.
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-front-coilovers.html
Do you know the spring manufacturer? Hyperco makes a 2.25" I.D. Spring, 8" long & 200-550#/in rate by 25# increments. You won't get better quality.
 

SteedaTech

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Do you know the spring manufacturer? Hyperco makes a 2.25" I.D. Spring, 8" long & 200-550#/in rate by 25# increments. You won't get better quality.
Hyperco, makes Steeda’s coil over springs. Furthermore, our competition Dual Rate springs were engineered by the top Winston Cup spring engineer at Hyperco.
Steeda Tech
 

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TeeLew

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Hyperco, makes Steeda’s coil over springs. Furthermore, our competition Dual Rate springs were engineered by the top Winston Cup spring engineer at Hyperco.
Steeda Tech
Then you've got a good spring design. If someone wants to run the 250# rate, then there's a 9" available as well. That should give you the needed travel, is there a free length issue that makes this not work?
 

shogun32

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Once the rebound was tweaked I am quite happy with the Pro-Actions+DR on the GT.

So did you try the BMR083 with your Pro-Actions?
the problem child is the pro-acTIVE on my ecoboost paired with the progressive springs. The alternate setup (still in box) for this car is the pro-acTION adjustables in coil-over configuration with Bilstein B6 rear shocks running 275 or 300 front, and any of DR rears, BMR SP083 rears, or GT350R rears.
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