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Coilover time! Pedders Extreme!?

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PtheGman

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@PtheGman - do you have access to 93 octane in your area? Or E85/flex fuel? If so, I would highly recommend either of those. A high octane fuel and tune will surely wake that beast up. I expect you will see a little gain from 91 but it might leave you somewhat disappointed. I'm lucky in my area that I have good quality 93 everywhere and lots of stations that offer E85.

Probably not, there are exactly 1 stations in tucson that offer e85 I believe, at an inflated rate if I remember correctly....I would absolutely settle for a flex fuel tune but again, availability is questionable currently, unless of course someone knows a station in north tucson that has a steady supply of both. The last thing I want is to have to change tunes on a hot day because 93, e85 or e54 are not available. Ideally I would go for a flexfuel tune, as it has an octane gain, (Albeit minor) over 91 and offers the opportunity for better tuning that dino based magic go juice. Anyone Know of a FF station in my area?

-Paul

Edit: Im looking at the BMR sways on American Muscle, why would I go with just the front for the price when I can have both front and rear at a discount? Is the BMR rear too stiff or just doesnt work dynamically with the rest of the setup? Thanks!
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BmacIL

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Probably not, there are exactly 1 stations in tucson that offer e85 I believe, at an inflated rate if I remember correctly....I would absolutely settle for a flex fuel tune but again, availability is questionable currently, unless of course someone knows a station in north tucson that has a steady supply of both. The last thing I want is to have to change tunes on a hot day because 93, e85 or e54 are not available. Ideally I would go for a flexfuel tune, as it has an octane gain, (Albeit minor) over 91 and offers the opportunity for better tuning that dino based magic go juice. Anyone Know of a FF station in my area?

-Paul

Edit: Im looking at the BMR sways on American Muscle, why would I go with just the front for the price when I can have both front and rear at a discount? Is the BMR rear too stiff or just doesnt work dynamically with the rest of the setup? Thanks!
The setup will generally work overall better with a stock PP rear bar or something of similar stiffness, and a heavier front bar. There's a good amount of discussion & theory behind why it works better that way, but it definitely does. Kelly will also recommend a front-only bar upgrade with these springs.
 
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PtheGman

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The setup will generally work overall better with a stock PP rear bar or something of similar stiffness, and a heavier front bar. There's a good amount of discussion & theory behind why it works better that way, but it definitely does. Kelly will also recommend a front-only bar upgrade with these springs.
So i may be holding off on the larger more expensive (to install) suspension parts and be heading towards some braces for now. A few reasons, Im going on vacation for the 4th and Id like to save a bit of money, second, my Girlfriends driveway is uneven, horrible and dirt and long. I really need to think about a 1 inch drop versus a quarter mile walk and parking on a street in a podunk town....

This thread has a ton of good information in it! Since we are still on the suspension and chassis topic, im jacking my own thread, or enhancing it, or both.

Anyone have a verdict on the Cradle lockout, front strut brace and K braces (maybe its an H) I feel like those might better suit me before a drop and full suspension overhaul. I have had really good luck in the past with braces and improvements without much unwanted NVH.

-Paul
 

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So i may be holding off on the larger more expensive (to install) suspension parts and be heading towards some braces for now. A few reasons, Im going on vacation for the 4th and Id like to save a bit of money, second, my Girlfriends driveway is uneven, horrible and dirt and long. I really need to think about a 1 inch drop versus a quarter mile walk and parking on a street in a podunk town....

This thread has a ton of good information in it! Since we are still on the suspension and chassis topic, im jacking my own thread, or enhancing it, or both.

Anyone have a verdict on the Cradle lockout, front strut brace and K braces (maybe its an H) I feel like those might better suit me before a drop and full suspension overhaul. I have had really good luck in the past with braces and improvements without much unwanted NVH.

-Paul
Cradle lockout is a must do!
 

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So i may be holding off on the larger more expensive (to install) suspension parts and be heading towards some braces for now. A few reasons, Im going on vacation for the 4th and Id like to save a bit of money, second, my Girlfriends driveway is uneven, horrible and dirt and long. I really need to think about a 1 inch drop versus a quarter mile walk and parking on a street in a podunk town....

This thread has a ton of good information in it! Since we are still on the suspension and chassis topic, im jacking my own thread, or enhancing it, or both.

Anyone have a verdict on the Cradle lockout, front strut brace and K braces (maybe its an H) I feel like those might better suit me before a drop and full suspension overhaul. I have had really good luck in the past with braces and improvements without much unwanted NVH.

-Paul
Yeah. The CB005 cradle lockout will certainly benefit you. If you're going to hold off on lowering suspension mods for now, I'd do CB005 and strut tower/K braces. If you wanted to you could even do the CB006 also to tighten up the front end even more. Those pieces plus a more aggressive alignment might achieve what you're looking for. The stock car is pretty capable once you remove some of the deflection in the suspension arms and rear subframe.

Edit: What @BmacIL said - the cradle lockout is an absolute must. Biggest weakness of the car IMO.

NVH from the cradle lockout is extremely minimal.
 

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I'm going to test the ability of the Pedders rear shocks to sustain a heavy ass spring (1300lb/in) to better pair with the 400lb/in front setup. If they die, I'll upgrade to JRZ rear dampers.

My car is about 90-95% track car, though.
 
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PtheGman

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So I'm really intrigued, looking at the bmp parts lineup here and I'm curious what the cb007 and cb763 may offer in conjunction with the cb006. I have the cb0006 and jacking rails in my cart already. Curious about cb762 as well. Do these parts conflict or could I add them all lol? Honestly thinking about bumper braces as well. As previously stated 8ve had very good luck in the past with all sorts of braces on different applications. I'm also strongly considering mm007 motor mounts to take out some drivetrain slop as well. I'll be cons8dering these all in place of coilover, dampers or springs.

Thanks again!

-paul
 

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So I'm really intrigued, looking at the bmp parts lineup here and I'm curious what the cb007 and cb763 may offer in conjunction with the cb006. I have the cb0006 and jacking rails in my cart already. Curious about cb762 as well. Do these parts conflict or could I add them all lol? Honestly thinking about bumper braces as well. As previously stated 8ve had very good luck in the past with all sorts of braces on different applications. I'm also strongly considering mm007 motor mounts to take out some drivetrain slop as well. I'll be cons8dering these all in place of coilover, dampers or springs.

Thanks again!

-paul
I'd forgo most of the bracing in favor of a proper suspension setup. Get the foundation right first. The CB006 and CB007 conflict with each other, as well. The CB005 is what you want, and the CB763 can be added later if you want a bit more subframe mounting stiffness. With what you currently have, I'd hold off on that and just do the CB005 with springs & dampers. The front-end bracing that is included in the performance package is something I'd recommend, and is inexpensive. The parts list for that is in the thread below:
https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ion-lower-k-brace-install-guide.100800/unread

As for the motor mounts, I would not bother unless this is a race car, or you happen love a lot more noise and vibration. The bumper brace also has no real place on a street car.
 

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Yeah man, you gotta do the RLCA bearings too. It'll ride and hook up better. It's one of those things that every big step you're like "oh wow, I'm so happy, I don't know how I could be happier" and then you find another thing that's a sizeable step-function improvement.
Very nice, It's definitely on my list of next mods to do.
 
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PtheGman

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What about any of the bushing kits, particularly the diff mounts/kit?
 

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What about any of the bushing kits, particularly the diff mounts/kit?
Unless you're drag racing, I'd stay away from the diff bushing inserts. They do add some noise. The sleeves from Lethal's Extreme hardware upgrade kit are a nice addition with stock hardware, though, and take away a very noticeable amount of slop.
 
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PtheGman

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Unless you're drag racing, I'd stay away from the diff bushing inserts. They do add some noise. The sleeves from Lethal's Extreme hardware upgrade kit are a nice addition with stock hardware, though, and take away a very noticeable amount of slop.
I think BMR makes the same part and Id love to have it. Id buy from Lethal as well.

I think this purchase is going in the direction
CB005, CJR002, CB006, which I cant find on the BMR website for some reason and an upper front strut tower brace, probably the SR performance one thats $90 as i cant see that any of the other strut tower braces actually hav a cost benefit.
 

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I think BMR makes the same part and Id love to have it. Id buy from Lethal as well.

I think this purchase is going in the direction
CB005, CJR002, CB006, which I cant find on the BMR website for some reason and an upper front strut tower brace, probably the SR performance one thats $90 as i cant see that any of the other strut tower braces actually hav a cost benefit.
Well the strut brace by itself is not very useful. You need the two K braces and the firewall connector that are mentioned in the link above in order to really get anywhere. Those parts (standard on the performance pack) make a very significant difference. I have all of that plus what you listed, and it didn't really come alive till the plush springs and dampers were off. The bracing really, really helps with consistency and not feeling like the front is a noodle, but the car is still way too soft.
 
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PtheGman

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Well the strut brace by itself is not very useful. You need the two K braces and the firewall connector that are mentioned in the link above in order to really get anywhere. Those parts (standard on the performance pack) make a very significant difference. I have all of that plus what you listed, and it didn't really come alive till the plush springs and dampers were off. The bracing really, really helps with consistency and not feeling like the front is a noodle, but the car is still way too soft.
I ordered the bmr k brace, what other k brace are you talking about? The Ford one? Do you have a link?

-paul

Last night I ordered the bmr k brace, cradle lockout, jacking rails and an sr performance strut tower brace.
 

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