Help Picking Tires for MT82

[stang17]

Looking for some advice and wisdom!

I plan on attending the You Tube Call Out race event October 20th at Maple Grove. This will be the first time the car sees the drag strip. I was able to pick up a pair of Dark Star 17x 9.5 rims on the cheap. Due to other expenses, my budget currently doesn't allow for a set of front runners w/ bias plys. I need to place an order for tires soon so that I'll have them before the event.

I was debating running a Bias play ET Street R with my General GMAX AS-05 255 19 PP rims upfront. From what I have read, this combination will result in sway city. I also saw M&H makes a 275/50/17 drag radial that is 28 tall. I think this size would pair well with the 3.73 gears, but am hesitant due to it being a radial.

Has anyone successfully ran drag radials on their MT-82s without breaking stuff?


Car is driven less then 5k miles a year- daily driver in snow and all (thus the all season GMAX tires)
I plan on hitting the strip no more than a few times a year.
I also would like to have a tire I can use for roll racing/ 1/2 mile events. (I'm not too far way from Pocono, who has plenty of these type of events)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Kev

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[poncho@home]

That's a tough one.

First off, yes the 28" tall tire is what you need with the 3.73s

Secondly, the Bias ET Street R is better for 1/4 in terms of breakage, consistency and lowest possible ETs.

But, for the roll racing 1/2 mile events, I'd stick with your street tires.

 

[t14mhall]

I've had some luck on Mickey Thompsons (295/45/17) on those race stars. They were great for 1/4 mile but I'm not sure how they'd be for 1/2 mile.

 

[stang17]

I pulled the trigger on a set of Hoosier 28x10x17 slicks, Race Star 18x6 front runners, and Mickey Thompson SPORTSMAN S/R 28X6.00x 18 skinnies.

Big shout out to Terry @ Beefcake for hooking a brotha up with great pricing and service.

I'll report back after the 20th to let everyone know how I made out.

 

[AlexZafo]

I’ve been running the same Hoosier 28x10x17, with a set of standard performance pack fronts with a 245x35x19 tire. Rears aired down to about 18psi and have been able to get a good pass with minimal sway, is it ideal? Not at all. Does it swag? Hell yes, but I’ve been able to pull a low 11 second run with that setup. Like I said if possible get a set of skinnies, but It will work in a pinch

 

[stang17]

First time ever running at the strip and on slicks. I was having ongoing clutch issues the entire day with the clutch dragging and not wanting to disengage. Had to pull the ebrake to keep the car from drifting forward. Was only able to get a few runs in.

Hoosiers(28×10×17) were set to 18psi cold. Next time I'll lower them down to 12-13.

1st run was 11.7 at 126.58 with 1.87 60 ft
2nd run was 11.3 at 132.48 with 1.89 60 ft

On the 11.3 pass, my 8th mile mph was 102, so picked up 30+mph on the top end.

93 octane with race weight about 4100 lbs (full interior premium PP with 200 lb driver)

I was also crossing the traps while at rev limiter 7800 in 4th gear. I believe shifting into 5th would have given me a few more mph.

My 10 second pass will have to wait until next year as I'm throwing in the replacement clutch Exedy sent me and will need to get a few hundred to 1,000 miles on it before next track visit.

I'm also going to switch to 3.31 rears as the 3.73 are too aggressive with the Whipple. Another mustang6g member running the same tune/mods was also struggling with 60 fts but was running 10.8s with 3.31s and WOT box.

 

[ugstang17]

^^^ First off you are best to just let its tongue hang out at the line in fourth rather than grab fifth. A better 60' and not blowing off the wheels will get you through the traps better in fourth. If you're spinning you ain't winning.

Your air pressure for a bias ply is too high. You need to start at 14-15 range and massage from there. Heat those babies up! A second gear burn out is critical for getting a bias ply up to temp. Time your burn outs and reference that with respect to air and track temps. The cooler the track the longer the burnout will need to be. MT has some great tips on the basics on their website. AND - when you are checking/setting your air pressure do this at the same tire temp each time. The air pressure will increase with tire temp - common law of physics.

I see nothing about shocks in your sig. Kelly at BMR highly recommends the drag series Viking dual adjustable rear shocks and can give you the 411 on what to set them to as well as his preferred alignment numbers to have the shop set your rear camber to optimize your 60'.

I am a big fan of the 3.31 gear matched with the MT-82. A group of us showed up with stock 13's at a track here locally some years back. Everyone but me was runnign factory 373 or 355's. We were all on street tires. Guess who was the only guy to cut a 12.8x 1/4? That's right the guy with the 3.31 gear. That car went on to make 568 at teh wheel a year or two later and went 11.49 on Mickey Thompson ET street II series 17's driving it easy and lift shifting.

BTW Terry is a great guy. I know him personally.

 

[raycer]

I usually start at 13.5 psi cold. After the burnout they should be at 15 or so depending on outside temps. Set the tach at around 4500-5000 and slip out the clutch. Don't dump it. My 60 fts went from 1.75 to 1.55 doing this. 3.31 would definitely help.

 

[stang17]

Thanks for the tips....I really appreciate it!

I think my nerves got the better of me as I never drove a car on slicks before and I wanted to start high so I could adjust to any sway as I never experienced it before.

My first pass line lock wouldn't engage and got flustered. I did a manual 2nd gear burnout keeping the rpms around 6kish for a good solid 10 + seconds, but wasn't getting too much smoke (probably due to brand new slicks).

I rolled out of the burnout and ended up passing through the staging lights. I backed up but when I put the car into first with clutch to the floor, clutch wasn't engaging/disengaging correctly (ongoing issue-see other posts) and car kept drifting forward.

I ended up having to pull the ebrake to keep the car from creeping forward which rattled me some more.

I did let off the gas a little bit in 3rd gear as I had the ever slightest sway, but quickly got back into it as I realized the sway isn't scary at all.

On my 2nd pass, line lock worked perfectly, but pressure was a bit too high killing my 60ft. Nonetheless, I wasn't as nervous and made a much better pass.

On my third pass my clutch was slipping so bad, it ended up being a junk run at over 15 seconds as I just got out of it and took it easy, calling it a day.

Looking forward to getting the new clutch and gears in and heading back.

 

[raycer]

You have an exedy mach 600 in the car and its slipping?

 

[ugstang17]

One other thing and it is easy to forget...make sure advanced track has been fully disabled. I would not trust the track option that is on the S550. I would disable advance trac using the foot brake and holding the traction lock disable button up for 5 seconds over the other. But I am new to the features on the S550 so it may be fine.

As I understand it, if you put tubes in the tires (they recommend but you don't have to) that will stiffen the side walls a bit and help with that sway on the big end as I understand it. I have never run a bias ply but I have ridden in an 850RWHP 04 Cobra on the same Hoosiers you are running with tubes in them on a WOT street pass up to about 130mph and it wasn't as bad as I thought. I run auto's now so there is no need for me to go bias ply. Good luck.

 

[stang17]

You have an exedy mach 600 in the car and its slipping?

Clutch had given me issues on and off ever since install. After extensive troubleshooting, Exedy came to the conclusion that the pressure plate may have been damaged while in shipping and the diaphragm fingers may be out of spec, causing for uneven clamping force, which in turn leads to the engagement/disengagement issues I have had.

They sent me a replacement kit free of charge, which I'm having the dealer install this week.

 

[raycer]

Ok. That is the clutch I want to put in my car. It is supposed to be rated at 587 ft pounds. Hope it works out for you. I have heard it is a great clutch.

 

[95civic2005]

Mind posting a breakdown of your mods? Stage 1 or 2?

 

[Excel]

really wanna go fast,ditch the 17s and go with a smaller rear brake and
slap on some 275 15s MTs

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