PMAS intake - high IATs???

[blackyote_317]

Ok, I have a question for the experts here. I apologize if this has been covered before but I could find very little.

Yesterday I finally had some decent weather and time and installed my PMAS intake (tune required) and VMP tune for it. Got everything installed with minimal headache and it runs great. No drivability issues stoplight to stoplight or WOT. However, I did notice my IATs are like 25* above ambient (or more) in town. 70 mph on the interstate they are more like 5* above ambient which is what I would normally expect. I did adjust the MAF position a little last night and it seemed to help some this morning but I'm not sure.

I wasn't able to reuse my stock air inlet duct resonator due to the big resonator on top. It just wouldn't fit. Here is what is looks like:

My shield also looks slightly different than a lot of others in that it doesn't have a "wall" to the front towards the grille. I think my main issue is that I'm not getting any air from the grille area and it's sucking it in purely from the engine compartment.

1) Are these normal temps with a PMAS? I'm not surprised that the temps are slightly higher in town but this seems excessive.

2) Am I doing something wrong or can I modify the inlet to get colder air from the grille area? Should I get a velossa tech big mouth?

Here is my setup:

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[BmacIL]

Pretty normal for that intake. You also have the 'newer' version with an even worse sealing box. GT350 CAI or Roush seal the best of the open box ones.

 

[Grimace427]

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83358&highlight=pmas+high

 

[EFI]

You can always trim the top mounted resonator and plug it (alot of people are doing this purely for aesthetics) and you might be able to use the snorkel.

But I wouldn't bother, you're pretty much stuck with what you have (eg. basically an open filter in the engine bay). It's not going to get much better than that unless you go with a whole new intake and better sealing airbox (if they can even call it that).

 

[Paul K]

The gt350 inlet duct part# FR3Z-9C675-B

fits the pmas intake and lowers iat's.

 

[blackyote_317]

You can always trim the top mounted resonator and plug it (alot of people are doing this purely for aesthetics) and you might be able to use the snorkel.

But I wouldn't bother, you're pretty much stuck with what you have (eg. basically an open filter in the engine bay). It's not going to get much better than that unless you go with a whole new intake and better sealing airbox (if they can even call it that).

I've considered doing some cutting and seeing if I can make it work. It would have to help some. I'm definitely going to rotate the maf as far into the box as possible.

 

[EFI]

I've considered doing some cutting and seeing if I can make it work. It would have to help some. I'm definitely going to rotate the maf as far into the box as possible.

Opening up the grill insert on the driver side and wrapping the MAF and intake tube/box in reflective tape will help some if you're hell bent on making this work.

 

[blackyote_317]

The gt350 inlet duct part# FR3Z-9C675-B

fits the pmas intake and lowers iat's.

The more I research and the more you all chime in, it seems my experience with these high IATs seems pretty normal so I'm not concerned. I just wasn't aware the temp diffs would be that dramatic. I went ahead and ordered the gt350 inlet duct for now and the velossa tech will be ordered eventually just for good measure.

 

[Genxer]

I have an older version of PMAS intake/box and I simply closed off the opening at the top. I think that's basically the same thing JLT does with their box. Your box is a whole other situation. Not sure why they changed it, other than JLT getting butt hurt about the similar design, or perhaps PMAS trying to give more room for the MAF sensor. If you have good fabbing skills, build a new box for it? The rubber seal material should be readily available, I bought mine at NAPA to do the partition. PMAS is all about the flow, so I made sure to open up the box at least as much in one area as I blocked it off in a another, to keep the sq. in. of opening area at an advantage.

 

[blackyote_317]

I have an older version of PMAS intake/box and I simply closed off the opening at the top. I think that's basically the same thing JLT does with their box. Your box is a whole other situation. Not sure why they changed it, other than JLT getting butt hurt about the similar design, or perhaps PMAS trying to give more room for the MAF sensor. If you have good fabbing skills, build a new box for it? The rubber seal material should be readily available, I bought mine at NAPA to do the partition. PMAS is all about the flow, so I made sure to open up the box at least as much in one area as I blocked it off in a another, to keep the sq. in. of opening area at an advantage.

I'm not much for fab work but I'm going to spend some time with adding some insulating tape in a few key areas making sure the box is sealed against the hood well. Other than that I'll add the gt350 inlet and velossa tech. Should get me to about as low of IATs as I'm going to see

 

[Kahboom]

Does the newer version of the PMAS still have a metal MAF housing or is it hard plastic now?

 

[Tang]

If you look at the photo you can see it's a black ABS housing the MAF screws into, there are no other parts there. Mine looks exactly like the OP photo as well

 

[Paul K]

Does the newer version of the PMAS still have a metal MAF housing or is it hard plastic now?

I have the newer version of the PMAS intake with the aluminum heat shield and the MAF housing is metal, not plastic.

 

[valentinoamoro]

The gt350 inlet duct part# FR3Z-9C675-B

fits the pmas intake and lowers iat's.

Does this inlet require the front bumper to come off? I got the PMAS intake and was about to order this.

Cheers,

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