rear wheelspin accelerating /starting in turns

[accel]

I ve noticed that it is easy to get single wheel spin in conditions far from racing.

Just regular day to day in traffic driving.

Sometimes I stay at the intersection at a traffic light in the right lane with the intent of making a right turn. Sometimes that turn needs to br made fairly fast, but we are not talking racetrack here. Just fast enough to get to the speed of cross traffic.

And I can feel like there's some wheelspin in tne rear. LSD definitely helps, but I feel like there should not be the wheelspin firstplace... Or, maybe that's slight wheelhop? It really feels like one of the rear wheels (unloaded in the turn) is very slightly hopping... It's not a smooth spin, it's a itte intermittent.

But I'm just not accelerating hard enough...

There's no problem with this level of acceleration going straight.

Anyone experiences this? Anyone can hint in the right direction
to fix it?

I was going to move in the direction of putting wheelhop reduction components one by one.

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[Bluemustang]

I ve noticed that it is easy to get single wheel spin in conditions far from racing.

Just regular day to day in traffic driving.

Sometimes I stay at the intersection at a traffic light in the right lane with the intent of making a right turn. Sometimes that turn needs to br made fairly fast, but we are not talking racetrack here. Just fast enough to get to the speed of cross traffic.

And I can feel like there's some wheelspin in tne rear. LSD definitely helps, but I feel like there should not be the wheelspin firstplace... Or, maybe that's slight wheelhop? It really feels like one of the rear wheels (unloaded in the turn) is very slightly hopping... It's not a smooth spin, it's a itte intermittent.

But I'm just not accelerating hard enough...

There's no problem with this level of acceleration going straight.

Anyone experiences this? Anyone can hint in the right direction
to fix it?

I was going to move in the direction of putting wheelhop reduction components one by one.

I believe I can chime in here. I noticed this characteristic pretty bad on my stock car. Part of this IMO is a characteristic of how the suspension works. The other part of it is the number of things moving around in the rear which makes one wheel skip and hop while the other one does not.

Locking down the IRS will help quite a bit. Cradle lockout, FRPP toe bearing, RLCA bearing are most important to this IMO. I also added vertical links and toe rods which may help marginally but the first three are critical to locking the car down in tight corners from a stop.

My car now- it will still spin tires but no wheel hop as you describe. I will get some hop if I encounter a bump mid turn and I'm on the throttle pretty good, but that's just a factor of how stiff my suspension and differential is now with all my mods. But this not what you're talking about which is normal tire skip.

You need significant mods to the IRS to rid the problem you are talking about. I can now launch from a stop and pin the steering wheel and off I go. It's amazing what a few bearings and cradle lockout will do. The RLCA bearing and toe bearing is critical in this I think. And the cradle itself of course.

 

[BmacIL]

Yeah, all of the above ^^^

 

[accel]

Yeah, all of the above ^^^

ahem.. What's the best bang for the buck that is also easy diy? I'm far from spending hours and tons of money on suspension rework...

I was thinking of frame bushing reinforcement -Steeda S550 Mustang IRS Subframe Bushing Support System, tbat is discussed several threads apart... is it going to help, or that's different issue?

 

[ahl395]

ahem.. What's the best bang for the buck that is also easy diy? I'm far from spending hours and tons of money on suspension rework...

I was thinking of frame bushing reinforcement -Steeda S550 Mustang IRS Subframe Bushing Support System, tbat is discussed several threads apart... is it going to help, or that's different issue?

I don't think any of the above I would classify as an "easy diy". The cradle lockout is probably the easiest but still pretty involved. If you want the problem fixed its going to be hours and money lol.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Its a high horsepower rear wheel drive car. You can't turn and expect to put down the same power you can put down in a straight line.

This is just basic traction circle stuff. If your tires are being used to corner, you're not going to have the same grip available for thrust. Wheelspin is the result.

IRS mods may help keep the car from exhibiting wheel hop, but wheelspin is the nature of the beast. These Mustangs have plenty of horsepower to get you into trouble.

 

[accel]

I don't think any of the above I would classify as an "easy diy". The cradle lockout is probably the easiest but still pretty involved. If you want the problem fixed its going to be hours and money lol.

This one looks like diy: http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17990

But not sure that is relevant to the problem.

 

[accel]

Its a high horsepower rear wheel drive car. You can't turn and expect to put down the same power you can put down in a straight line.

This is just basic traction circle stuff. If your tires are being used to corner, you're not going to have the same grip available for thrust. Wheelspin is the result.

IRS mods may help keep the car from exhibiting wheel hop, but wheelspin is the nature of the beast. These Mustangs have plenty of horsepower to get you into trouble.

I'm not arguing... just seems it should not wheelspin/hop that easy...

 

[Bluemustang]

ahem.. What's the best bang for the buck that is also easy diy? I'm far from spending hours and tons of money on suspension rework...

I was thinking of frame bushing reinforcement -Steeda S550 Mustang IRS Subframe Bushing Support System, tbat is discussed several threads apart... is it going to help, or that's different issue?

This might help slightly but I doubt by itself it'll do much. The cradle lockout is a key obviously but the toe-knuckle bearing has a key role in cornering consistency and maintaining geometry. And someone please correct me if I'm wrong but the RLCA also can deflect quite a bit and this has an effect on the IRS geometry as a whole so putting a bearing there is critical to maintain proper IRS geometry while putting power down.

These 3 mods are significant amounts of work, particularly the two bearings. Doing the cradle lockout alone will not solve the issue.

There's another member here who complained about this and he ended up selling the car. But yes imo the mods I did to the IRS did indeed fix the problem. Toe bearing went a long way and the control arm bearing completed the solution.

 

[BmacIL]

ahem.. What's the best bang for the buck that is also easy diy? I'm far from spending hours and tons of money on suspension rework...

I was thinking of frame bushing reinforcement -Steeda S550 Mustang IRS Subframe Bushing Support System, tbat is discussed several threads apart... is it going to help, or that's different issue?

CB005 Lockout kit is very easy DIY. About an hour or so if you're good with tools. The bearing replacements are very effective but much more complex to do, though the toe knuckle bearing is the simplest of the lot. I'd start with the lockout kit and see what you think. Doing mods one at a time helps with understanding their effect, along with appreciating them individually.

What Bluemustang said above is accurate, though.

 

[Bluemustang]

[MENTION=10281]BmacIL[/MENTION] makes a good point about doing the mods one at a time in order to appreciate the effect. I wish I had done that with all of my modifications but I ended up putting on several things at once and then doing it again and then a few more parts here or there. I've learned quite a lot I think in a short time all things considering but I think I'd have learned more had I done modifications slowly and testing.

 

[Ryan P]

What you might be experiencing is the Torsen LSD doing it's thing. When you apply throttle in a turn causing slip, it wants both wheels to spin at the same rate, obviously this is not conducive to turning, as the inside wheel needs to rotate slower, and the outside faster. When it can't do that, it kinda skips, and hops. I've had several cars with Torsen, and they all exhibited the same symptoms to varying degrees. I'll admit, this car is probably the worst I've experienced when it comes to that, but only when making very sharp turns, like turning onto a side street or something. I've read other complaints on this forum regarding the issue.

Also, I've gotten all the mods that have been mentioned in this thread, they didn't seem to affect this issue at all.

 

[DarkestHour]

Sounds like the LSD in this specific case

 

[jasonstang]

Are you applying power? If you are coasting through the turn you shouldn't feel that.
Factory suspension is soft so the inside wheel will unload more than the outside one causing them to spin easily. When the inside wheel starts to spin, it will transfer torque to the outside wheel but it's not always a continues motions depending on how the grip changes on the inside wheel.

 

[69mach1-395]

Silly question, but how about starting in 2nd gear since the OP has the PP. Is that too sluggish?

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