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Loose Rear-end Sensation (especially when accelerating)

Ecoboosted

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Hey @Ecoboosted how much did this install cost you ? I am still warrantied, but I am guessing they would deny it, since my car is lowered. But I called some dealers near me, one quoted me $1600 at one, and about $1300 at the other.. the parts themselves are $150 each.

How much did it cost you for the install?
I bought the Track Pack Suspension and installed it myself.
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JayHij

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Alright Folks! We are in much better shape, but there may be room for improvement. I am hesitant though, to mess with anything lol. Thanks to everyone for their help! But a special shutout to @Dr. Norts for specifically pointing out that some may not know how to adjust the camber adjustment in the rear on our vehicles,

Long story short, the new alignment guy (who was really cool btw) said he was unable to adjust the camber in the rear, and that I may need something to help with that. I immediately thought maybe I do need adjustable toe-links... but then I remember Dr. Norts comments. So I told him to hold tight, and did some research online, and lo and behold, this is a known thing with our cars, most folks don't know where the bolt is. Once I nudged him the right direction (found a great thread on here with actual Ford manuals), I think he was more ecstatic than I was lol, and got it going. In his defense, he had a catalog he references, and showed him nothing for our cars. Also another big lessons learned for me was to hang out there the whole time, while he was working on it. It helped immensely.

Onto the results, much bigger improvement, but do the front still need to be aligned even more? BMR's suggestion is a little different than what he set me up with for the fronts. He told me BMR's suggestion is good, but aggressive, and more suited for the track.

Before:

Beofre.jpg



After:

After.jpg
 

HoosierDaddy

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Do you have a link or subject for that thread? Getting an alignment soon and want to be ready to show them.
 

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JayHij

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JayHij

JayHij

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Hey Guys,

I am experiencing a different issue now (maybe an issue, not sure yet).... Basically I feel like I have a little more play in the steering then I should. In essence, the steering wheel is not as responsive as it should be (regardless of what steering mode I am in). I replaced out my Eibach Springs (right before I did the alignment) with FP Street ones (so much SMOOTHER, thank God I did that).

Also on another note, while the issue is no where near as bad as it use to be, I still feel like the suspension is loose/bumpy, like I can't trust it. I have heard many folks recommend a BMR cradle lockout kit, but as I understand it those kits are not fully compatible with Convertibles (I guess the brace itself). Instead of I have stumbled upon this:

Steeda S550 Mustang Subframe Alignment and Support kit

Anyone have any feedback on this kit? As usual, thanks in advance for all your help!

Videos to better illustrate what I meant about having play in my steering:

Comfort Mode:


Normal Mode:


Sport Mode:
View attachment 382473
 
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JohnBoyNC

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A bumpsteer kit should solve your steering issue.
 

Bluemustang

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Hey @JohnBoyNC, I have the steeda bumpsteer kit already installed.
Something doesn't seem right there. Too much play in that steering. I would do this by process of elimination. Start with your last known good setup/configuration and work forwards from there. When did this excess steering play come about?
 

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Something doesn't seem right there. Too much play in that steering. I would do this by process of elimination. Start with your last known good setup/configuration and work forwards from there. When did this excess steering play come about?
I would say its between getting the new FP Street Springs installed (replacing the Eibach Sportlines) or the Alignment. I have feeling it was it was after the alignment, because after the spring install (I had to drive the car to a different shop for an alignment, and I don't remember having that much play in my steering) but I don't remember for sure.
 

Bluemustang

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I would say its between getting the new FP Street Springs installed (replacing the Eibach Sportlines) or the Alignment. I have feeling it was it was after the alignment, because after the spring install (I had to drive the car to a different shop for an alignment, and I don't remember having that much play in my steering) but I don't remember for sure.
OK, then I would look at the springs and strut mounts torqued, stuff like that. Also I might look at the control arms again. Do you have OEM front control arms or Steeda ones? It's possible the install of the springs has something to do with it or something not torqued to spec. Did you have the bushings clocked/indexed when the springs were installed (the FP street or the Eibach)? Chances are your issue is one of those areas.

The stock steering is very vague, but shouldn't have that much play. Looks like your negative camber is much less now up front (I'd like to see it higher than that) but that can't be causing the issue you have.

I find most times you look back at what was most recently done or when the problem first occurred. Higher likelihood you find your problem.

Edit: If you suspect it was after the recent alignment, take it back the shop you went and explain the issue. And come in with better alignment specs and make them get it as close as possible.
 

SgdriskillGT

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So to get right into it, I have a good amount of work done suspension wise, I started off with

  • Eibach Sportline lowering springs all around,
  • Yellow Koni Sport front struts (middle setting)
  • Yellow Koni Sport rear shocks (middle setting)
  • front and rear Eibach Sway Bars with BMR endlinks (middle setting)
Then I installed
  • Steeda Front Control Arms (Lateral and Tension Links w/ Bushings),
  • Steeda S550 Mustang Bumpsteer Kit,
  • Steeda Billet Aluminum Vertical Links with Polyurethane Bushings .

Could not put my finger on it, but the car did not drive the same after the second list of items installed. One thing that happened that bugged me, is if you turned the wheel all the way to make a turn, unless your turned it back all on your own, the car would get stuck like that. Anyways so months go buy, and I go off a huge curve, and I could tell the car needed an alignment after that, so took it to a shop in to what I thought was a legit suspension shop for an alignment and took the opportunity to the some part swapped out/installed

  • Ford Performance Performance Pack Rear Toe Link Kit,
  • Hub Centric 25mm Spacers,
  • replaced the controls arms with the Ford Performance Front Control Arm Kit Performance Pack (just felt like the steeda ones were off),
  • and camber bolts.

So the car drove straight as an arrow but a few issues arose, one I can hear the left front strut when over a dip at higher speed, the steering felt very tight when turning, and when hitting a bump or dip on the freeway, the car in the rear feels like its going to fall apart, like very wobbly (this was my biggest concern). Don’t feel it in the steering, but rather in my rear in my seat.

Took it back to the shop (the last place I had the other items installed), and they saw nothing wrong but decided to give it another alignment. The issue was still there. Took it to another shop (lost hope in the last one). They told me my tires were bald in the rear, but the fronts were ok (oops), so they suggested I buy two new tires of the same brand (pilot sport 4s), put the new ones up front, the old fronts in the rear, gave it another alignment lol, removed the spacers, and now its the worst than it's ever been.

Now if I accelerate hard, or give it gas, the rear feels like it's going to fall apart. It is a side to side (kind of wobble) sensation. Also, still feeling over bumps and long turns (curves on the highway).

Took to a 3rd shop, and after some inspection, he thinks it's my "carrier" bushings in the rear! I asked to please look at my axel bolts, but he insisted he didn't think it was that ( I was annoyed).

I need help guys! I am desperate! I just want my baby to drive well again! Also, I am located in Socal (please any known good mustang shops would be greatly appreciated.

PS - I have a Ecoboost Premium Convertible with FP Tune.

I have the same rear end wobble under hard acceleration, feels like a boat / the rear toe is out of wack and pulling the car left then right.

After a week at a dealership, they said the issue is one of the knuckles is falling apart... They are replacing it tomorrow.

I’ll let you know if that fixes it. Crossing my fingers.
 

JohnBoyNC

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And I'm getting ready to install them and was under the impression that the play would be gone after. Hhmm.

Have you replaced any of the control arms up front? Did you just replace the bumpsteers or did you buy the Steeda kit that comes with the lateral links?
 
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JayHij

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OK, then I would look at the springs and strut mounts torqued, stuff like that. Also I might look at the control arms again. Do you have OEM front control arms or Steeda ones? It's possible the install of the springs has something to do with it or something not torqued to spec. Did you have the bushings clocked/indexed when the springs were installed (the FP street or the Eibach)? Chances are your issue is one of those areas.

The stock steering is very vague, but shouldn't have that much play. Looks like your negative camber is much less now up front (I'd like to see it higher than that) but that can't be causing the issue you have.

I find most times you look back at what was most recently done or when the problem first occurred. Higher likelihood you find your problem.

Edit: If you suspect it was after the recent alignment, take it back the shop you went and explain the issue. And come in with better alignment specs and make them get it as close as possible.

Really appreciate the feedback and suggestions!

Control arms are Ford Performance, I do have a set of Steeda ones with longer ball joints (but took these off sometime ago, did nsoftot like how the steering would get stuck when fully turned).

As for "bushings clocked/indexed" I don't entirely know what this means, and when I told the tech to make sure this was done when installing the springs, it seemed like I was speaking a different language. I would like to know more about this.

As for "negative camber is much less now up front", what should we have it set to ?
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