0 camber in rear

[boostmark]

Looking for the best traction with my set up, Roush 670 on a PP1. My Nitto nt555r are toast. The negative camber has worn out the tires on the inside. Before installing these I set the camber to as positive as I could just to get more life from the tires and have more traction. I`m not worried about going around corners as I don`t track the car. Is this what I need to adjust it? { Rear Camber Adjustment Lockout Kit } It just seems there is not a lot of adjustment to it to get it to zero. Its from CJ Pony parts. Thanks, Mark

Sponsored

 

[NGOT8R]

Try a BMR camber lockout kit and set them to positive camber. Only two positions positive and negative.

 

[Cory S]

Get a set of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Godspeed-Adj...fos.08f69ac3-fd3d-4b88-bca2-8997e41410bb&th=1

Set rear camber to -.3 to -.6°

 

[silverbullet85]

Yeah you need adjustable camber arms. Steeda makes some, I like the voodoo ones, they are just a little pricy for camber arms

 

[NGOT8R]

I have the Steeda Adj, Camber Arms and the BMR Camber Lockout Kit on mine. The quality is very good on both items.

 

[galaxy]

Adjustable camber arms are a life saver on this car. I literally got my SPC arms installed this weekend and doing the alignment now. Having said that, negative camber is not an enemy of the tire. If you're getting extensive inside wear, you need to check the toe. And keep in mind, one influences the other on the rear; in other words, cranking out a chunk of camber will change the toe. I'll post a picture of my tires off the rear with 18,000 miles and -1.2° camber, and you could not have a more flatter, even wear.

 

[Cory S]

Adjustable camber arms are a life saver on this car. I literally got my SPC arms installed this weekend and doing the alignment now. Having said that, negative camber is not an enemy of the tire. If you're getting extensive inside wear, you need to check the toe. And keep in mind, one influences the other on the rear; in other words, cranking out a chunk of camber will change the toe. I'll post a picture of my tires off the rear with 18,000 miles and -1.2° camber, and you could not have a more flatter, even wear.

-1.2° is decent and fairly flat pressure applied for a daily average car yes, but many of these cars are showing -1.6 to -2.2° right out of the factory in the rear. Great for handling, but just too much for every day driving and straight line accelerating. During applied throttle of more than 35%, this can squat the rear into upwards of -2.2 to -3.0° rear camber. That’s where most of the inside wear comes from (assuming toe in is less than .18° per side).

 

[tj@steeda]

We also have the adjustable camber kit here - which utilizes the factory adjustments - https://www.steeda.com/rear-camber-adjustment-kit.html

 

[galaxy]

-2.2 seems pretty extreme for factory alignment, but at the same time, I know attention to detail can be lacking and it probably happens. FWIW, -2.3 was the absolute extreme on my stock arms. And visually it is very apparent.

 

[NGOT8R]

Here’s my alignment sheet after I installed the Steeda adj. camber arms, toe links and BMR camber lockout kit. This was as good as the alignment shop said they could get the camber. I’ll accept this at the cost of assuring that I won’t have any slip on the camber setting with the camber lockout kit in place. Note: The before settings were from my own attempt to perform a string alignment on it. This was very tedious and I felt like I was out of my wheelhouse, so I decided to take it in for an alignment.

I would have gone with the Steeda camber adj. kit, but didn’t want to risk the possibility of slippage and lose the settings.

 

[galaxy]

This was as good as the alignment shop said they could get the camber.

Can you expand on this? Are you talking about F or R? For the front, I'm assuming it's stock? Which means no adjustment anyways. If they told you that's as good as they could get it, they're blowing smoke since it's not adjustable anyways.

For the rear, did you request almost 0° on the camber? If not, I'd want them to elaborate. I'd be hard pressed to believe you paid good money for Steeda arms and this is all you can get. I would not be happy nor accepting of those numbers (unless like I said, that's what you wanted).

Props for doing your own. I am on that journey as we speak. You are right, it is tedious, but I'm enjoying it.

 

[NGOT8R]

Can you expand on this? Are you talking about F or R? For the front, I'm assuming it's stock? Which means no adjustment anyways. If they told you that's as good as they could get it, they're blowing smoke since it's not adjustable anyways.

For the rear, did you request almost 0° on the camber? If not, I'd want them to elaborate. I'd be hard pressed to believe you paid good money for Steeda arms and this is all you can get. I would not be happy nor accepting of those numbers (unless like I said, that's what you wanted).

Props for doing your own. I am on that journey as we speak. You are right, it is tedious, but I'm enjoying it.

I’m talking about R. Yes, I did want the rear set up for straight line work over handling, as I don’t drive the car like that. However, I believe that the limiting factory here was pairing the Steeda camber arms with the BMR lockout kit.

I could have achieved a perfect dial-in on the suspension had I not used the BMR lockout, but I didn’t want to risk slippage and lose the settings. You only get negative or positive camber with those, so that’s what limited the technician from achieving a perfect dial-in.

Good thing is, if I ever change my mind and decide to take advantage of the car’s handling capabilities, I can just remove the BMR lockouts and have full adjustability with the Steeda arms.

 

[galaxy]

@NGOT8R aaahhhh, got it! Makes sense! Thanks man.

 

[galaxy]

~18,000 miles, fairly normal toe in, and -1.3°.

Sponsored