2015-17 Mustang GT Ford Performance Power Packs

[EricSMG]

I mean their arrogance is normal. After all they have plenty of test vehicles, degrees, and the original ford equipment used to create the factory tune. I don't understand the throttle body closing thing though, why wouldn't the original 80mm throttle body have it?

And they obviously don't know what they're doing based on the pinging, jumpy throttle and rev overhang ("it's better for the engine"..... really??).

If Lund can avoid all of these things, and in improve both performance and drivability, then, they are the more skilled team. Period.

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[TorkN8R]

"Our tune doesn't need to be revised" my white ass. :frusty:

Say Wildcat...just thought I'd throw this idea out there. My understanding is that these cars go into learn mode after a battery disconnect/reconnect. Did you try this?

 

[Freedom]

And they obviously don't know what they're doing based on the pinging, jumpy throttle and rev overhang ("it's better for the engine"..... really??).

If Lund can avoid all of these things, and in improve both performance and drivability, then, they are the more skilled team. Period.

Fair but Lund turns off rear O2 sensors and dont have to go through California's CARB

 

[Terminator2]

Say Wildcat...just thought I'd throw this idea out there. My understanding is that these cars go into learn mode after a battery disconnect/reconnect. Did you try this?

Tune reflash does this automatically

 

[2morrow]

I think the zl1 of last gen had an open intake, anyone know if those cars ping?

Good question. I wouldn't think so(I could be wrong, I never drove one yet). That would be odd to drive a pinging motor off a showroom floor.
Also, I'm sure their strategy for making power is different because it still uses pushrods.

As far as open intake goes, even the GT 350 has an open intake but the question here is if the TB closes on the GT 350 and ZL-1(Hellcats too?).

And they obviously don't know what they're doing based on the pinging, jumpy throttle and rev overhang ("it's better for the engine"..... really??).

If Lund can avoid all of these things, and in improve both performance and drivability, then, they are the more skilled team. Period.

Unfortunately, not CARB legal which is a HUGE marketing point for these kits.

 

[Rich of So Cal]

I agree. They are in the best position to know about this. His answers didnt settle very well with me though.

As far as the TB closing, I thought it had to do with the stock set up being a closed system. The newer set up has an exposed filter element where gasses can escape if the TB were to remain open. Escaped gasses = emissions. Even though it is so small of an amount.

Yes, my tech said the original TB used a charcoal filter of some kind to prevent the harmful emissions from escaping, but the new one does not, therefore it has to slam shut when powered down. Which makes sense, if you remove the filter you get a better breathing setup and thus, more power.

 

[2morrow]

Fair but Lund turns off rear O2 sensors and dont have to go through California's CARB

We mustv'e been writing this at the same time lol.

 

[MarkH]

After todays ride I am very happy with gains in performance.
1)It shfts smoother
2)more tq off the line is great with the 3:73
3)revs up quicker, probably due to added low end tq
4)digs in noticable in the power band
5)roush sounds great -haha just fun factor

No seperator, run on 93, throttle overlap no different than before. = much better driver and feels stronger than before the tune. Add to that, i keep my warranty WHOOT!

 

[TorkN8R]

Well just reporting back on my install of the FP / PP2. I put a bit over 150 miles on the new tune at this point. I've been driving the car pretty much the same as I always have.

Today I filled the tank up with all we have here in CA...91 Oct. That was about 12 fresh gals. The temp. here today was about 60 degrees. I took it for a good spirited drive. Some twist's, highway and a 0-60 and a 0-100 run. It was about a 15 mile run. I didn't check the time on the 0-100 but it was sure quick and from the seat of my pants dyno...it was much more noticeable power then per-tune pulls.

I flogged it pretty good. No babying it. The intake makes a nice throaty sucking sound on WTO. or just snapping it in the power band between 2500 and 4500. Pulls really strong. During my 0-100 run in track mode using the paddles and shifting at about 6000 rpm's the shifts were snap fast. I could diffidently feel the tranny pump pressure difference from first to second and third. The exhaust seems a tad louder as well.

Normal mode, sport +, and Track mode. No ping, no hang. car runs like a beast. According to my tack apps. 0-60 was 4.8 sic's. Car runs strong and flawless.

I don't know if I just got lucky or what, but I'm satisfied with the package.

 

[Freedom]

I'll be installing this tomorrow morning and will have a long drive back, will let you know about the pinging and other things

Well just reporting back on my install of the FP / PP2. I put a bit over 150 miles on the new tune at this point. I've been driving the car pretty much the same as I always have.

Today I filled the tank up with all we have here in CA...91 Oct. That was about 12 fresh gals. The temp. here today was about 60 degrees. I took it for a good spirited drive. Some twist's, highway and a 0-60 and a 0-100 run. It was about a 15 mile run. I didn't check the time on the 0-100 but it was sure quick and from the seat of my pants dyno...it was much more noticeable power then per-tune pulls.

I flogged it pretty good. No babying it. The intake makes a nice throaty sucking sound on WTO. or just snapping it in the power band between 2500 and 4500. Pulls really strong. During my 0-100 run in track mode using the paddles and shifting at about 6000 rpm's the shifts were snap fast. I could diffidently feel the tranny pump pressure difference from first to second and third. The exhaust seems a tad louder as well.

Normal mode, sport +, and Track mode. No ping, no hang. car runs like a beast. According to my tack apps. 0-60 was 4.8 sic's. Car runs strong and flawless.

I don't know if I just got lucky or what, but I'm satisfied with the package.

I think the hanging are so far only noticeable by manual owners?

 

[Ambrotos]

Well, I just installed my P2. It took about 1 1/2 hours to do. The biggest issue I had was trying to figure out what tubes I had to cut, and add the T-connect to. Even the directions aren't too clear, it just says " cut these tubes and add the T". wtf

The sound tube either wasn't connected or I have arms like the hulk, but the tube just came right off. I didn't have to remove any bolts. This was the 2nd biggest issue I had, reading all the issues about the sound tube, and bolt removal. I looked for about 15 mins trying to figure out how to get it out when all I had to do was pull. Maybe I missed something that made it easy.

Installing the tune was pretty simple. Follow the directions by the steps it gives and you shouldn't have any issues. This process took about 10 mins due to having to use my cell phone as a hotspot. I also saw other instructions that I will quote at the bottom. Maybe this is what you guys are talking about.

I turned the car off for 15 seconds after installing the tune like it said, and started it. The car sounds more beastly. I have the Corsa Sport installed, and it made it sound meaner at idle. Revving it up and hearing the intake, and the car growl was great.

How does it run? To put it simply, it runs how it should have from day one from the factory. This car is much more muscle down, mid and top range. I no longer bog down trying to go slow over speed bumps, or starting slow from first. The torque increase has helped level this out.

If you like to drive hard you will burn your tires. I was able to do a lot more than chirping in 3rd gear. So much power down low as compared to before is astronomical. You then hit mid, and it's so much fun. People will know you are getting on it.

Issues? I have noticed some slight rev hang. I don't find it much of an issue. I do have the steeda spring installed. Like I said, this is a very small issue. One I can quickly over look and not care.

No pinging at all. It runs flawless. I filled up on 93 last night in prep of the install.


Advice.
I removed the engine overflow tank tube to have better access to the TB. The main issue I had was I wasn't expecting it to be under pressure and piss out antifreeze everywhere.

The quick release clips on the quick connects. They are made to be simple. Don't go off applying brute force. They just slightly pop up and you are set.

If you cut the main tube (right side of the TB) for the T connect further back, I don't think you need to cut into your engine cover. I didn't have to cut a corner out for mine, it fits very closely without any restrictions.


Conclusion:

The 575 dollars I spent on this is well spent. It is like driving a new, much more powerful car.

1. When to use Octane Adjust and Profile Learning
   
2. The Octane Adjust switch should only be switched to “ON” when spark retardation is desired. Some engines have increased octane sensitivity and require spark table adjustment. By switching the Octane Adjust switch to “ON” you are telling the PCM to reference a different spark table. Normally, this is only necessary if your engine is knocking.
   
3. The Profile Learning switch should only be switched to “ON” when the engine is reporting a misfire DTC such as P0300-P0316. By enabling this switch, the engine will prompt the driver to rev the engine to a specific rpm until the PCM relearns the fire pattern characteristics of the trigger wheel.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Seems it works great on auto cars!

 

[EricSMG]

Fair but Lund turns off rear O2 sensors and dont have to go through California's CARB

Yes, good point. That said, you can simply request they not turn off the O2s and no one would ever know the difference. So, technically not CARB legal but would never fail (with O2s left on) in Cali since the tune would be undetectable.

Further, NO motor should ever audibly ping. Sure, each car is different but we're seeing a few here report pinging and so this means one or more calibrations is/are too aggressive for a 'one size fits all' tune. Some are getting lucky and others are flat out screwed unless a resolution presents itself.

BUT - the warranty retention is very valuable and so from that perspective there's no other option, besides staying stock.

 

[TexasRebel]

Detonation occurs after spark plug fires and typically after TDC.

Detonation can happen anytime in the stroke and for a number of reasons.

The plug firing creates a flame front that normally expands through the cylinder volume until all the fuel is consumed and/or the exhaust valve opens. Detonation occurs when the flame front compresses a portion of the unburned fuel/air mixture to explode from heat/compression. It is a brief event causing the "knock" you hear.

The "knock" is generally piston skirt slap and generally occurs when pistons are compressing an expanding gas. This is caused by ignition too far before TDC. The metallic "pinging" heard is auto-ignition caused by the air fuel mixture ignighting from heat and/or compression.

In extreme cases (WOT) it is violent and can cause physical damage (broken rings most prominently) or complete piston/rod failure. Since the engine runs at greatest efficiency just at the ragged edge of detonation it may be somewhat tolerated at lower loads for long periods without damage (according to the article).

Head gaskets generally are the first things to fail due to severe detonation. Light detonation will melt the pistons. This gets confused for ring failure sometimes as the ring lands sieze the rings. Timing is adjustable to eliminate detonation. It's never good.

Pre-ignition occurs in a gasoline engine prior to the programmed firing of the spark plug. It is usually caused by an ember like ignition point like carbon build up, damaged spark plug, etc. The point made in the article is that detonation often occurs after fuel/air is sucked into the chamber, the intake valve closes and just as the piston begins to rise from Bottom Dead Center (BDC) in the compression stroke because that is when it is easiest to light at basically atmospheric pressure. As it compresses it gets harder to light. It is not an explosive event like detonation, thus the silent but deadly description, but it is a lengthy event potentially lasting the entire compression stroke expanding and burning as the engine is compressing it. It causes a great deal of local overheating to piston/head components. Pre-ignition is fatal in a very short time. I did not realize how early in the cycle this can occur.

If that's what the article says it's crap. The A/F mixture is much more volatile at higher temp after compression. Pre-ignition often occurs as carbon embers touch the heating mixture during the compression stroke. If the ember is hot enough and the fuel is atomized enough it can certainly ignite on the intake stroke, but that results in a backfire as the intake valve is still open.

Auto ignition refers to the diesel cycle where compression/heat alone is the driver of ignition by design. It does not apply to the gasoline engine cycle.

Auto-ignition doesn't happen in a properly running gasoline engine, but it can certainly happen. The most common cause is fuel with an insufficient octane rating to withstand compression. Another very common cause is overheating. If the A/F mixture reaches its flash point before the spark it will ignite randomly and unpredictably rendering all design in the combustion chamber (quench areas) moot.

 

[TexasRebel]

Seems it works great on auto cars!

My stick did just fine on two 500 mile days. Merging onto highways is just fun!

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