GT350 DIY Oil Change

[rfcs550]

The oil drip in the pic could be, not from the plug, but from the oil belly pan. I've learned that there's residual oil leaking after removal of the filter. This residual oil drips in three places; in both sides of the belly pan and at the bottom of the oil drain plug. This would make it appear as if that the oil drain plug is leaking when it's not. The lug itself does not "tighten" to fit, but has a lock clip mechanism. Once it's locked in place and the rubber seal is not compromised there shpuld be no leakage from the plug.

By the way, what's the part number for this oil drain plug? (Rockauto should have it).

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[kairojya]

The oil drip in the pic could be, not from the plug, but from the oil belly pan. I've learned that there's residual oil leaking after removal of the filter. This residual oil drips in three places; in both sides of the belly pan and at the bottom of the oil drain plug. This would make it appear as if that the oil drain plug is leaking when it's not. The lug itself does not "tighten" to fit, but has a lock clip mechanism. Once it's locked in place and the rubber seal is not compromised there shpuld be no leakage from the plug.

By the way, what's the part number for this oil drain plug? (Rockauto should have it).

I don't think I dripped any oil in the belly pan during my filter removal. In my post you can see I used a trick I learned here on the forums - to punch a small hole in the bottom of the filter before removing it (after breaking it loose of course) to allow most of the oil to drain out of it.

For the oil plug I have written down in my notes: Oil drain plug Ford part number BC3Z-6730-A reported around $6

 

[macroy]

First - Big thanks to kairojya for posting this. Even though I've read a few other threads on what seemingly is an easy task, your instruction saved me a lot of grief. Unfortunately, because some bonehead moves on my part, it didn't save me any time ;-).

I will say that the amount/force of the oil coming out of the drain was a huge surprise even after the warning. I got that same pan, and realized that the top reservoir is not deep enough. When it first came out, it basically splattered everywhere. I may opt for a more conventional container.

Punching a hole in the filter was a great idea. I let a drain a bit, then loosened it incrementally to let it drain more, and by the time I took the filter off, it was all drained.

That said - I wish Ford made a bigger cut in the undercarriage cover. All the pictures I've seen made it look much bigger than it is. That filter is also tucked in a bit higher than I thought.

 

[kairojya]

I agree on all those points!

I was able to put the oil drain plug back in once I saw the top part of the oil pan fill up. Somehow they designed it where the plug can be inserted even while it's draining full flow without spraying out the sides everywhere. I was surprised. For the remainder of my draining I held the plug half way in to limit the flow. Once it came to a small stream I removed the plug fully.

 

[916Bob]

This should be a sticky...

 

[kairojya]

This should be a sticky...

Thank you, nice car line up!

 

[J_Maher_AMG]

Fantastic write up man, definitely agreed this should be a sticky!

Question for you, you said you used a breaker bar to initially break the oil filter free; in that case, would a micro sized torque wrench be required to torque the new filter? I have a longer torque wrench now, approximately the same size or maybe a tad bigger than a typical breaker bar, and am wondering if I should go pick up or order a micro wrench, but also whether I may be able to get away with the wrench I currently have.

 

[kairojya]

Fantastic write up man, definitely agreed this should be a sticky!

Question for you, you said you used a breaker bar to initially break the oil filter free; in that case, would a micro sized torque wrench be required to torque the new filter? I have a longer torque wrench now, approximately the same size or maybe a tad bigger than a typical breaker bar, and am wondering if I should go pick up or order a micro wrench, but also whether I may be able to get away with the wrench I currently have.

Thank you! I actually used my normal 1/2" drive breaker bar (I don't have a 3/8" breaker bar). I use a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter between the breaker bar and my 3/8" oil filter wrench. You don't have much room to turn the wrench, but it's enough to break it loose.

I don't think it makes a difference if you had a smaller torque wrench as you'll still be restricted to using the open area of the oil filter access door anyway.

 

[Myshelby3425]

Did my oil change and after adding the 10qts I was short. It wasn't full.

 

[Spacebird]

Did my oil change and after adding the 10qts I was short. It wasn't full.

Did you start the car and let it run a bit before checking the level?

 

[Myshelby3425]

Did you start the car and let it run a bit before checking the level?

Yes. The level is actually a lot higher before you let the car run. I let it run a bit and checked it after then checked it again about 30 min later. The car was inclined on race ramps when I did the oil change and I let it drain for about 20 min.

 

[Side_Pce]

Thinking of going with Amsoil Signature Series 5w-50. Case of 12 shipped to my door for $108. Cheaper than the motorcraft... well online anyways.

 

[Rainier42]

Thinking of going with Amsoil Signature Series 5w-50. Case of 12 shipped to my door for $108. Cheaper than the motorcraft... well online anyways.

This is what I just put in @ 1500 miles.

 

[montreal ponies]

Thinking of going with Amsoil Signature Series 5w-50. Case of 12 shipped to my door for $108. Cheaper than the motorcraft... well online anyways.

That's cheap, cost me $180cad for a case of 12.

 

[Blaze489]

Here is a helpful video

[ame]

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