X springs and PP Shocks and Struts Alignment Problem

[BrandonJ]

I installed part of the Ford street handling pack which was the M-5300-x springs, front struts, rear shocks, and the pp toe links(which have identical part numbers as my stock base GT ones). So I took it to the Ford dealer to get an alignment and they say that to get the camber on the front right they will have to grind on the strut? Not to mention this will be an additional $180 over the standard alignment charge of 89.95.

The car does have a lot of side-side sway when changing lanes or on a rough highway so I know it needs alignment but is it really that extreme of a change?

Thanks

Brandon

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[whalesalad]

Without camber plates you need to do modifications to the car to get the camber back to factory spec. To do it without plates, you need to elongate the top 3 holes where the strut mounts to the body so you can slide it around ... or you need to drill out the lower holes and do something similar.

They can align everything and leave camber as-is. If the car is drifting around it's likely a toe issue not an extreme camber issue.

Are they trying to get it back to factory specs or are they doing a more aggressive/custom alignment?

 

[Bluemustang]

I installed part of the Ford street handling pack which was the M-5300-x springs, front struts, rear shocks, and the pp toe links(which have identical part numbers as my stock base GT ones). So I took it to the Ford dealer to get an alignment and they say that to get the camber on the front right they will have to grind on the strut? Not to mention this will be an additional $180 over the standard alignment charge of 89.95.

The car does have a lot of side-side sway when changing lanes or on a rough highway so I know it needs alignment but is it really that extreme of a change?

Thanks

Brandon

Buy some BMR Camber Bolts for $30. When I had the FRPP track springs, I couldn't get my front alignment in spec. The Ford dealer wanted to do the same thing to me and I didn't want them doing that. Camber bolts will work just fine for your purposes I think and give you a lot more adjustment.

 

[Daytona Coupe]

What were the numbers they measured, and what numbers are you trying to achieve?

 

[BrandonJ]

It

What were the numbers they measured, and what numbers are you trying to achieve?

I'm not sure what they measured but I just wanted to get back to stock so I don't eat up the inside of the tires.

I'm trying to get the guy to call me back so I will know what it was and where I need to be. Maybe the BMR bolts will be enough.

 

[IPOGT]

Dealer installed my Track and Street pack.... no issues or modifications.
I did hear that certain older alignment equipment does have issues though.

 

[whalesalad]

You won't really be able to (easily) achieve stock numbers after lowering the vehicle without specific hardware (camber bolts, plates, etc...) or with some careful craftsmanship cutting holes in the top mount area so the center of the strut can be pulled out towards the side of the vehicle.

A regular dealer mechanic won't do that stuff. They'll either tell you it can't be done or just send you on your merry way with higher negative camber.

 

[Bluemustang]

I would recommend a higher negative camber than stock, at least -1.5. It will actually help you to get the most out of your lowering springs and increased handling. You have a modified car now. Running a bit more aggressive alignment makes sense IMO.

 

[BrandonJ]

I'm good with it being a little more aggressive. I drive the car about 300-400 miles a week and I just don't want to go through several sets of tires a year.

 

[Bluemustang]

I'm good with it being a little more aggressive. I drive the car about 300-400 miles a week and I just don't want to go through several sets of tires a year.

It shouldn't eat away your tires. Mostly what kills tires is poor toe alignment.

Shoot for 0.00 deg front toe and 0.23-0.30 degree rear toe in total (or 0.12-0.15 per side).

A little excess negative camber will cause some wear but it depends how aggressive it is and how aggressive you take corners. Seeing as you have lowering springs for better handling, it stands to reason that you want it to corner better. If you go faster around corners, it should still wear pretty evenly even with more negative camber.

I would shoot for -1.5 to -1.8 in front and -1.3 to -1.5 in rear. The reason why I mention less neg camber in rear is because it'll allow you to hook up better off the line. Better straight line traction. The more negative you go on camber, the better your cornering ability, but you lose some straight line traction and stability. It's won't be huge so don't worry but it is a trade-off.

I would plan on adjusting your alignment based on your driving preferences. If you prefer better cornering ability over traction from a dig, go more negative camber (like -1.8 or -2.0 degrees). If you just want a some good cornering and don't want to sacrifice any straight line traction shoot for about -1.5 front and rear. Maybe a little less in the rear because the rear puts down the power.

I've heard plenty of guys who have run -2 or -2.2 on the street and have been just fine with tire wear. But it depends on a number of factors - one of them being your driving style.

Camber bolts will get where you want in the front. The rear you should be fine with your amount of lowering. If you want even more adjustment for the front and want to adjust caster consider caster camber plates, either Maximum Motorsports, BMR or J&M. I used BMR camber bolts and eventually ended up doing MM CC plates.

Hope this helps some.

EDIT: I wanted to add that I have found with more negative camber, it makes the steering more responsive and the tendency for the car to follow the road increases. That's not necessarily a bad thing but something I thought I'd mention.

 

[BrandonJ]

Thanks Bluemustang. That sounds like a good deal. This is really the most suspension mods I've done to one of my mustangs. My 03 Cobra had H&R Race springs and I did M&M caster camber plates but I guess I lucked up on the alignment because it always drove straight and smooth but it was definitely more of a straight line car. I really want this car to be a balanced ride with power and suspension.

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