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Michael_vroomvroom

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Completely understandable - however - if you burned your brakes by activating stability control (I am not saying you did - just a hypothesis), you likely were overdriving your car quite a bit. If that was the reason, finding new rotor / pads isn't going to solve your problem.
Based on another thread here (https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/question-re-disabling-advancetrac.107126/), it sounds like the traction control icon will flash when advancetrac activates, even if traction control is off due to being in trackmode. If so I guess the OP would also notice it flashing, if that was the problem.

Having recently started to track my daily driver (third trackday coming up next week), I'm also interested in what pads are a good compromise between daily driving and occasional (once every month or second month it looks like) track use for a novice with the PP1 Brembo front calipers, as I guess I will have to replace my OEMs soon enough.
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Based on another thread here (https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/question-re-disabling-advancetrac.107126/), it sounds like the traction control icon will flash when advancetrac activates, even if traction control is off due to being in trackmode. If so I guess the OP would also notice it flashing, if that was the problem.

Having recently started to track my daily driver (third trackday coming up next week), I'm also interested in what pads are a good compromise between daily driving and occasional (once every month or second month it looks like) track use for a novice with the PP1 Brembo front calipers, as I guess I will have to replace my OEMs soon enough.
Don't compromise. Just get a street set and a track set. As you pick up speed, you'll melt your "double duty" pads and then they'll be useless for both applications. - People says the OEM Brembo pads are good double duty pads...maybe for your very first track event when you're slow. They can't handle the heat once you get faster.
Street suggestion: anything
Track suggestion: G-Loc, Carbotech, Ferodo, Raybestos, Hawk DTC. All of which can be found at knsbrakes.com or gt350brakes.com
 
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Norm Peterson

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Based on another thread here (https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/question-re-disabling-advancetrac.107126/), it sounds like the traction control icon will flash when advancetrac activates, even if traction control is off due to being in trackmode. If so I guess the OP would also notice it flashing, if that was the problem.
I wouldn't count on that. Not at all, if his eyes are looking out the windshield at where he wants the car to go like he's supposed to be doing. Down at the instrument panel is pretty much the last place one should even think about looking during any attempt at an aggressive maneuver. Any wagers on whether the video Darwin contenders might be watching the tach as they leave the C&C event???


Having recently started to track my daily driver (third trackday coming up next week), I'm also interested in what pads are a good compromise between daily driving and occasional (once every month or second month it looks like) track use for a novice with the PP1 Brembo front calipers, as I guess I will have to replace my OEMs soon enough.
There is no universal answer here. Too many variables.

But if it doesn't get very cold where you live, the R12/R10 combination mentioned above by Ewheels is at least marginally streetable (there is some dust, there will be some noise, and the better part of wisdom would be to leave a little extra room for the first couple of stops around town on a cold day or after extended highway driving). But even the 12's don't have a big appetite for rotors like pads from some other mfrs do. I've personally run the 12/10 combination on the street.

Just keep in mind that 'YMMV' here.


Norm
 

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Based on another thread here (https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/question-re-disabling-advancetrac.107126/), it sounds like the traction control icon will flash when advancetrac activates, even if traction control is off due to being in trackmode. If so I guess the OP would also notice it flashing, if that was the problem.

Having recently started to track my daily driver (third trackday coming up next week), I'm also interested in what pads are a good compromise between daily driving and occasional (once every month or second month it looks like) track use for a novice with the PP1 Brembo front calipers, as I guess I will have to replace my OEMs soon enough.
Yeah, no. Read what Norm has written.

Why would you not replace your pads with a set of OEM ones ?
 

Michael_vroomvroom

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I wouldn't count on that. Not at all, if his eyes are looking out the windshield at where he wants the car to go like he's supposed to be doing. Down at the instrument panel is pretty much the last place one should even think about looking during any attempt at an aggressive maneuver. Any wagers on whether the video Darwin contenders might be watching the tach as they leave the C&C event???
Possibly, but the dash is not far below the windshield. When I was running mostly in sport mode (my first track day. I'm now a veteran of two trackdays), I didn't have problems seeing the traction control warning flashing in my peripheral vision now and then. Probably not every time, but enough times to know I was using it. But yeah, YMMV as you said.
 
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Michael_vroomvroom

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Why would you not replace your pads with a set of OEM ones ?
Well, I'm starting to read up on that now, but I think what Ewheels said makes good sense. Rather than quickly wear down good street pads on the track, I can get some pads that are both better for the track, and will last longer. The OEM PP1 pads appear to be Ferodo DS2500 based on some other threads here.

gt350brakes.com say "Although we always recommend using a dedicated race pad for the track, the DS2500 is one of the best hybrid street/track pads on the market. ... When used on high HP, heavier cars (2,800 lbs+) on the track with race tires, pad wear rates tend to be higher than on Ferodo Racing's other pad compounds. Under those conditions, Essex would recommend the Ferodo DS1.11 or DSUNO."

Based on videos it looks like changing the pads is not too difficult or time consuming either, once one has done it a few times, plus it means I get to inspect the pads really well each time too.
 

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changing the pads is not too difficult or time consuming either
I can attest to this. It's not hard or time consuming at all. I change mine back and forth all the time
 

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Possibly, but the dash is not far below the windshield. When I was running mostly in sport mode (my first track day. I'm now a veteran of two trackdays), I didn't have problems seeing the traction control warning flashing in my peripheral vision now and then. Probably not every time, but enough times to know I was using it. But yeah, YMMV as you said.
I can't find a picture showing me where the TC lamp might be on your car. Any chance you can grab a picture during the bulb check right after you start it up?


I have to tell you that with 45 years or so of driving where none of my cars had either TC or stability control, I am not conditioned to expect anything happening on the instrument panel when the g's are closer to 1.0 than 0.1. Never mind that a flashing TC or ESC lamp isn't going to tell me anything I really need to know right at that instant.


On the track, I will see my upshift indicator flash, but that's really about it for warning indicators. And the gauge it's part of sits above the top of the dash, either in the circle (I caught a frame where they're lit), or where the arrow is pointing to. Anywhere in the green rectangle takes active effort for me to see, and that's not something I'll be doing when I'm busy with more important matters . . . things like cornering, hard braking, other traffic, flag stations, etc.

Instrument warning light visibility.webp



Norm
 

Michael_vroomvroom

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I can't find a picture showing me where the TC lamp might be on your car. Any chance you can grab a picture during the bulb check right after you start it up?


I have to tell you that with 45 years or so of driving where none of my cars had either TC or stability control, I am not conditioned to expect anything happening on the instrument panel when the g's are closer to 1.0 than 0.1. Never mind that a flashing TC or ESC lamp isn't going to tell me anything I really need to know right at that instant.


On the track, I will see my upshift indicator flash, but that's really about it for warning indicators. And the gauge it's part of sits above the top of the dash, either in the circle (I caught a frame where they're lit), or where the arrow is pointing to. Anywhere in the green rectangle takes active effort for me to see, and that's not something I'll be doing when I'm busy with more important matters . . . things like cornering, hard braking, other traffic, flag stations, etc.

Instrument warning light visibility.webp



Norm
I'm not in Spain at the moment unfortunately, so I can't take a picture right now. I tried to google for the digital display in track mode, but the photos I found look quite cluttered, with somewhat of an information overload, compared to what I use. Anyway, if I remember correctly, it's in the lower right corner, so if you were wondering if it's in a really prominent place, it's not.

I think our eyes and brains are quite good at detecting moving/flashing things in the peripheral vision however, and my display is as minimal as I can get it, with mainly the long tachometer stripe taking up room. When another icon suddenly appears and starts blinking, I usually notice that something has changed in my peripheral vision, even though I might not have time to look and understand what it is right then. After going around the track a few times and seeing it a few times, next time something starts blinking in that corner, I know enough to understand it's the TC light flashing without having to look closely at it.
 
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If so I guess the OP would also notice it flashing, if that was the problem.
I had put it in track and it said TC off, didn't think about advancetrac. It could've been flashing but I don't think I would've really noticed it since I almost didn't notice I was running out of gas :crackup:

Turns out an Ecoboost isn't so "eco" anymore on the track lol, averaged about 40L/100km (6 MPG).
 

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Michael_vroomvroom

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I had put it in track and it said TC off, didn't think about advancetrac. It could've been flashing but I don't think I would've really noticed it since I almost didn't notice I was running out of gas :crackup:

Turns out an Ecoboost isn't so "eco" anymore on the track lol, averaged about 40L/100km (6 MPG).
Well, coming from the horse's mouth like that, there can be no more argument from my side. ;-)
 

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Turns out an Ecoboost isn't so "eco" anymore on the track lol, averaged about 40L/100km (6 MPG).
Turbocharging can be made to show excellent results in the EPA drive cycles, which really aren't calling for much power except maybe very briefly.

When you're asking it to continuously give you all or most of its 300-ish HP, it's going to drink gas like any other 300 HP engine. Maybe a little faster overall due to it most likely running a slightly richer mixture to stay out of preignition and knock-retarded ignition timing.


Norm
 
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Well, coming from the horse's mouth like that, there can be no more argument from my side. ;-)
In your defence, the messages are very clear and bright. It's just when you are so focussed on the road it might grab your attention for a sec but with all the things you've got going on you just don't think about it.

Turbocharging can be made to show excellent results in the EPA drive cycles, which really aren't calling for much power except maybe very briefly.
When you're asking it to continuously give you all or most of its 300-ish HP, it's going to drink gas like any other 300 HP engine. Maybe a little faster overall due to it most likely running a slightly richer mixture to stay out of preignition and knock-retarded ignition timing.
Yeah I know not that I was expecting great fuel economy on the track. I didn't buy a Mustang for fuel economy lol.

(You might wonder why I got an Ecoboost then if I didn't care. Well that's pretty simple the Ecoboost in Europe (or atleast where I live) starts at 45K USD, the GT at $50K. The difference is not that big but crazy displacement taxes will put the GT right in 2020 GT500 territory in terms of price in the US. Not to forget insurance and the fact that we pay 7$ per gallon :whew:)
 
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To get this thread back on topic, I'm struggeling to find good rotors for my 4 piston setup. Are there any non inverted rotors available (that can be cooled properly) for the PP EB/base GT 4 piston setup? Or is the only option upgrading to the 6 piston calipers? I'm quite content with the 4 piston braking performance and rather spend the money on better suspension.

Since the rotors will be another disposable component I'd rather keep it at a budget and not get a 2 piece set. I will probably have to replace them annually anyway.
 

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(You might wonder why I got an Ecoboost then if I didn't care. Well that's pretty simple the Ecoboost in Europe (or atleast where I live) starts at 45K USD, the GT at $50K. The difference is not that big but crazy displacement taxes will put the GT right in 2020 GT500 territory in terms of price in the US. Not to forget insurance and the fact that we pay 7$ per gallon :whew:)
I noticed right away where you were from, and it normally doesn't even cross my mind to wonder why people make the car choices that they do.


Norm
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