Why is performance package mutually exclusive with mini spare wheel?

[Fly2High]

Per Torsen for the 25% diameter difference, "If kept to the operational restrictions (speed and distance), this falls within what the differential can handle." I would assume that's the 50 miles / 50 mph typically printed on the side of the tires. Torsen goes on to say that 1/4" difference is a relative non-issue.

https://torsen.com/ask-torsen-using-a-mini-spare-tire/

good to know and thank you for the link. I wonder if there is any extra heating caused by a tire that was 25% smaller. Granted, even in a PP2, that difference is not that large but more a curiosity than worried about a problem. I still feel more comfortable with a closer sized tire for a PP2.

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[Zooks527]

I still feel more comfortable with a closer sized tire for a PP2.

Considering the cost of a differential failure, no reason to not be prudent, especially if a closer diameter match is an option.

Every so often, I look at how a Torsen operates and think "Yeah, that's why it's not an issue!". And 10 minutes later, when I'm no longer looking at the diagram of the internals, I can't for the life of me remember the details that convinced me.

 

[Grintch]

Well given how I can fit front tire on the rear or front, and with proper offsets, the other way around. Why wouldn't a narrow spare (that is thus not sensitive to offset) fit on the front? If anything the rear should be more sensitive as any size mismatch causes different speeds across the axles. Doh!, brake clearance.

In 30+ years of driving I have never had a blowout on the road or track. The occasional leaks that I have had a little fix a flat handle easily.

If you have a flat 4 miles from home why wait 6 hours when you can walk home in 1? Another set of wheels with "race" tires or winter tires makes a handy spare.

 

[Fly2High]

Well given how I can fit front tire on the rear or front, and with proper offsets, the other way around. Why wouldn't a narrow spare (that is thus not sensitive to offset) fit on the front? If anything the rear should be more sensitive as any size mismatch causes different speeds across the axles. Doh!, brake clearance.

In 30+ years of driving I have never had a blowout on the road or track. The occasional leaks that I have had a little fix a flat handle easily.

If you have a flat 4 miles from home why wait 6 hours when you can walk home in 1? Another set of wheels with "race" tires or winter tires makes a handy spare.

the front brakes on PP1, PP2 and Bullitt cars have 15" Brembo brakes that needs a tire with a barrel over 17 1/4" in diameter(8 5/8" radius) to clear the caliper at its widest part. The rear are much smaller. This is the reason it is harder to fit a spare on these cars. With such a narrow tire as a doughnut, I doubt offset matters in fitment. Clearly, you want to at least be in the ballpark. This measurement came from me measuring with a socket placed into the center of the hub(very tight fit) and measuring with a caliper at the widest part. It also coincides with a template on an aftermarket Brembo 6 piston brake unit that would fit our cars. Brembo nor Ford publishes the brake template for our cars. Not sure why. Maybe they do not want you to know what fits so you are more app to purchase only their wheels. Not sure.

 

[Grintch]

That why I said "Doh! brake clearance". Sometimes you read things one way, then realize you got it wrong (plus I noticed the 2017 date of the quote).

Problem is max size is limited by the spare wheel well, min size by the wheel diameter required to clear the brakes. As noted there is at least one solution, but it's pricey. Cheap solution is a tire in the trunk (avoids the spare well size limit). Question is how often is this increaed insurance needed verses how much it costs. The Ford spare and rotating tire from front to rear so the spare is on back works, but is a pain. Are you willing to pay $300 more to avoid that unlikely pain?

 

[Zooks527]

Are you willing to pay $300 more to avoid that unlikely pain?

Yes. As my immediate family has had four of those situations in the last 7 years, two of them involving cars that I was driving, I was absolutely willing to do so, and did so.

 

[Fly2High]

I would just like to know the width and offset of the AA spare. We already know it is a 19" wheel. If I had to guess, it is somewhere in the 4-5 inch range. Not sure of the offset. If I had to guess, there might be next to none and it seems to me it might not really matter much.

If the tire is about $150 to replace(buy solo), how much can a steel wheel cost?

Typical steel wheels should be cheaper than aluminum and those can be had in the high $100
to low $200 range.
Anyone have the specs off their AutomobileAuthority spare (width and offset)?

 

[CJJon]

I'd just call AAA or the Ford roadside and wait.

Here is a tip...you can join AAA after you have a flat. Just whip out your phone and join then call for the hook. Although I don't do that, I just pay the juice up front.

 

[ice445]

I'd just call AAA or the Ford roadside and wait.

Here is a tip...you can join AAA after you have a flat. Just whip out your phone and join then call for the hook. Although I don't do that, I just pay the juice up front.

They've stopped doing that for a while now, you won't get a free tow unless you've been a member for 30 continuous days.

 

[CJJon]

They've stopped doing that for a while now, you won't get a free tow unless you've been a member for 30 continuous days.

Bummer. I did that once years ago and have had them ever since.

 

[Grintch]

I would just like to know the width and offset of the AA spare. We already know it is a 19" wheel. If I had to guess, it is somewhere in the 4-5 inch range. Not sure of the offset. If I had to guess, there might be next to none and it seems to me it might not really matter much.

If the tire is about $150 to replace(buy solo), how much can a steel wheel cost?

Typical steel wheels should be cheaper than aluminum and those can be had in the high $100
to low $200 range.
Anyone have the specs off their AutomobileAuthority spare (width and offset)?

I think going bigger on the spare wheel is easy. Its finding a suitable tire that fits this bigger wheel and still fits in the spare tire well that I suspect is the trick.

 

[GregP27]

Get the spare. The damage you will potentially get from a tow is worth WAY more than the prices of even the $500 spare. The front end is not designed to have a cable pull upward and there is no tow hook unless YOU install one. If you leave a Mustang GT Premium for a tow, it may never survive to BE towed. It could get stripped before the tow truck gets there. I watched it happen while I was in my pickup one day (yes, I called it in ... they finished and left before the cops got there).

My 2019 is paid for and I don't want to pay for another one! ANother consideration is where you live. If you are in a desert, waiting for a couple of hours for a repair truck could be fatal if you don't carry enough water if the engine isn't running. What if you forget your cell phone or don't have cell service?

Get a spare.

If you are so hooked on actual street racing that a spare tire puts you off, then you won't have a driver's license very long anyway.

 

[Zooks527]

The front end is not designed to have a cable pull upward and there is no tow hook unless YOU install one.

There are tow hook points in the frame back towards the wheels. You need to have a tow driver willing to lie down next to the car to find them and get them hooked up. You might get a driver to do it in your driveway. Likely won't get one to do it on the side of the road if there's mud.

 

[Cobra Jet]

There are tow hook points in the frame back towards the wheels. You need to have a tow driver willing to lie down next to the car to find them and get them hooked up. You might get a driver to do it in your driveway. Likely won't get one to do it on the side of the road if there's mud.

Never tow from those areas. The issue with those specific spots is this:

Once the hook is inserted and force is exerted while pulling the vehicle onto the flat bed - 99.9% of the time that hole in the subframe sheet metal will elongate or get distorted. In worst case scenarios that force will also cause metal fatigue or cracks. The subframes on any Mustang are not thick, they are boxed.

Since inception, Mustangs usually have steel tow loops that are bolted to the rear sub frame assembly which is what is used for tie down and transport. Once the vehicle gets to the Dealer, during vehicle prep those loops are removed and either reused or discarded.

Some still have the tow loops in place from Dealerships that just never removed them. These can be found on eBay sometimes or still attached to parts cars.

I thought someone in the aftermarket made a set for the S550 which bolt to the factory locations for those who track their vehicles.

The Euro S550s have the available screw in tow loop which goes into the front bumper through a small access panel. I’m sure these can be sourced from Ford, BUT you would have to cut the hole in the bumper cover to access the threaded insert for the loop. Then of course if the loop isn’t in place, you’ll have an open hole in the bumper cover.

 

[givemeadollar]

There are tow hook points in the frame back towards the wheels. You need to have a tow driver willing to lie down next to the car to find them and get them hooked up. You might get a driver to do it in your driveway. Likely won't get one to do it on the side of the road if there's mud.

@Cobra Jet is correct and has some very good info.

M-1700-M

Ford Performance makes a tie down kit for our cars because US models do not have any tie down points from the factory. If you plan to tow the car frequently it is very useful.

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