Why do my rear studs keep breaking off?? They’re torqued to spec!

[K4fxd]

Can you tell me which open ended lug nuts I should get ?

Call the company who made the rims.

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[Soulja4187]

I’m on my drive to summit in Ohio. Can you tell me which open ended lug nuts I should get ? I’m getting the ARP studs. What seat style do I need ?

you will need open end conical you will need to match your thread size

 

[WV millwright]

Whatever lb-ft /Nm you tighten your rims to, if you're not doing so already, I believe it's a good idea to do so in stages. For example, typical star pattern, 1/3 or 1/4th of the total each time. Instead of loading one nut/stud all at once with the total force.

I don't have data to support the above. It just seems better to gradually load things.

Good luck with the car. You're on it. Hopefully, you'll have resolution soon.

I've had my share of training on fasteners and you are correct. Fabroy, which is one of the largest fastener companies in the world, recommends in stages of 3. 1/3, then 2/3, then full torque.

 

[Unas2k5]

I just got off the phone with Edgar from need for speed performance. He said that 150 pounds is for stock lug nuts on stock wheels he said that you should never go over 105 pounds on aftermarket wheels.
I am also sending him pictures. He said he is very surprised because this typically does not happen. I do have his email if anyone wants to ask him any questions or maybe someone else can call+1-888-714-7467
@K4fxd

 

[WV millwright]

Op I would highly recommend an extensive examination of your rims. If a car pulled up beside you an saw your wheel whopping, I'm betting that you have damaged the seat in the rims. If this is the case, you may never get the correct clamping force on the lug nuts.

Also, make sure when you install the new studs, you seat the stud fully in the hub. This may take more than the recommended torque if using the old washer and nut method. If you have a stud installer, not sure how they work because I'm still doing it old school, this may not be an issue. Either way, make sure the studs are fully seated or they will come loose and break the new studs again.

 

[MAGS1]

I just got off the phone with Edgar from need for speed performance. He said that 150 pounds is for stock lug nuts on stock wheels he said that you should never go over 105 pounds on aftermarket wheels.
I am also sending him pictures. He said he is very surprised because this typically does not happen. I do have his email if anyone wants to ask him any questions or maybe someone else can call+1-888-714-7467
@K4fxd

Well that’s false because LMR says right on their site to use 150 ft/lbs for their SVE wheels for S550.

As for the studs, are you sure you’re using S550 studs and not S197? The torque specs are different as the S197 is only 100 ft/lbs and would likely break at 150. Sorry for the repeat question if someone already asked it.

 

[Unas2k5]

This place is awesome!!!

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

Yeah, I know. I live about 45 minutes away. It's like a candy store for car guys.

 

[Cory S]

Sufficient for normal commuting driving, maybe. Sufficient for how people normally drive mustangs, no. Recommended, no. Warrantable, no.

The M14 stud was literally engineered to run 150 ft/lbs. Run the engineered amount.

The “engineered” amount also factors in a variable margin of all potential errors. As with everything. It’s to stop negligence, stupidity, and mathematical device variables. Not to mention what material actually is the fastener clamping, temperature, load duration etc……

I would bet MONEY that a torque “spec” of 150lb-ft on a 14mm 10.9 faster has an effective safe clamping range of 120-170lb-ft.

 

[Unas2k5]

So cool

 

[Unas2k5]

I’m getting these. Thoughts ?? They only had chrome so I gotta order black ones

 

[Jerryinpa]

This has happened twice. I don’t understand why my rear studs break off there has to be something going on. They’re torqued to spec I’m 100 percent sure.
Could it be these rims?

Hi,
I broke wheel studs off on my F150 and ford taurus several years ago.
I couldn’t figure it out either.
Finally I suspected my proto torque wrench was the culprit, so I bought a new one with a certified of calibration.
And after I finish using it I take the tension off the torque wrench springs by adjusting it to zero ft lbs.
If you leave it set to 150 ft pounds it'll compress the spring over time and shift its calibration, and it'll actually be a higher torque than what it's adjusted to.
Also, You could send your torque wrench out for calibration and ask if it was higher than expected.

Thanks, Jerry

 

[Joshinator99]

The “engineered” amount also factors in a variable margin of all potential errors. As with everything. It’s to stop negligence, stupidity, and mathematical device variables. Not to mention what material actually is the fastener clamping, temperature, load duration etc……

I would bet MONEY that a torque “spec” of 150lb-ft on a 14mm 10.9 faster has an effective safe clamping range of 120-170lb-ft.

Agreed, and to back up your point, GM uses the same 14x1.50 wheel studs on the Camaro… yet factory torque spec is 140 ft/lbs instead of 150…. I’ve been adding a small dab of anti-seize and running 10% under spec (so 140-10%=126 ft/lbs) on a 1059 WHP car that I’ve owned since new. Also have been doing the same practice since I started driving in 1990 and have never had an issue in any form of racing (legal or otherwise). My concern with going right “to spec” is that if your wrench is off a bit and you’re over, that’s how you damage stuff IMO. Ok, old timer rant over LOL

 

[ice445]

I'm in the 150ft/lbs camp, I always just follow factory specs when practical. You can get away with using less, but I don't see why you would want to.

 

[DrZed]

This place is awesome!!!

Cool video! Now I want to go on a roadtrip to see !

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