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WHP needed to run high 10’s

Dyoung471

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Planning to buy a Roush Phase 2 Kit
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Reputable shop custome tune

Curious what the FI MT-82 guys running high 10s are dynoing at?

on 91 octane, sticky tire and good driving would this be a potentially high 10 second combo?

searched the roush mega thread but couldnt find an answer

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NJMike

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Traction will get you where you want. You can make the power but if you cant put it down, you wont get near the time you want. What tires/wheel combo do you plan? What suspension upgrades do you have/plan to make?
 

FUN2RIDEFAST

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Traction will get you where you want. You can make the power but if you cant put it down, you wont get near the time you want. What tires/wheel combo do you plan? What suspension upgrades do you have/plan to make?
654 in my case but it's getting it to the ground that's the trick. Sub frame rails, vertical links, springs, drag radials and tire pressure.
 

beetle6986

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Planning to buy a Roush Phase 2 Kit
6MT
3:73s
Kooks 1 7/8 Catted LTs
Reputable shop custome tune

Curious what the FI MT-82 guys running high 10s are dynoing at?

on 91 octane, sticky tire and good driving would this be a potentially high 10 second combo?

searched the roush mega thread but couldnt find an answer
That will probably get you around 600 WHP on 91. That's definitely enough if you can get it to hook. IMO 3:73s with the MT82 are not ideal for a supercharged setup. I have 3:55s and feel like the gears are way to short. I think I'm going to switch mine to 3:15.
 

NGOT8R

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Whatever you do, don’t put drag radials on it, or the challenge will increase exponentially. That’s what I did and still can’t 60’ the car well enough to hit a 10, even though I have enough power 639 rwhp/602 rwtq on a 150 shot (FBO 2019 Bullitt with MT82-D4).

Look at the crappy 60’ on these slips.

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My highest mph has been 122.85.

I’m sure you can do it with about 575-600 rwhp, but it will have to be on a bias ply tire or full on slick.
 

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Dyoung471

Dyoung471

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thank you for all the responses , the summary that I get is that 600 wheel is needed, but just as equal is putting it down and driving it right.

did some research on running 10’s outside of just the power, looks the supercharger is just half the cost (using fb marketplace used part pricing)


10 Second Build:

Supercharger:

Roush stage 2 - $3,500
Tune - $700

Then you need more fuel for the power:
JMS BAP - $500
IDX1050 Injectors - $1,000

Now you need traction:
Weld 17s with Mickey Thomspon Slicks - $800
Vertical Links - $200
Subframe Bars - $300
Drag Springs ( Already have steeda pro actives ) - $300

Now you’re going to fry your stock clutch and break axles:
McCloud Twin Disc Clutch - $1000
G Force Axles - $1200
+ Probably an MT82 rebuild - $4000
 
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HKusp

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Depends on the MT 82 and a lot of guys get a lot of runs in with the stock axles, and I have seen people say the had their 1200hp rated ones last 3 or 4 runs and grenade. Wheel hop is the killer and no-lift shifting will beat the MT82 to death. That Stage 2 Roush is prone to heat soak, so if you go that route and are going to go to the track you should get an ice tank to supplement their poor heat exchanger performance if you want to do back to back runs.
 

beetle6986

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That Stage 2 Roush is prone to heat soak, so if you go that route and are going to go to the track you should get an ice tank to supplement their poor heat exchanger performance if you want to do back to back runs.
He has a GEN 2 which is the 2300 blower. They don't have the heat soak issues like in a Gen 3. However, ice never hurts.
 

HKusp

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I get that the Gen 2's aren't as bad as the Gen 3's but the knock on the Roush has always been heat soak, even with the improved cooling kits, they soak on back to back runs. That Roush thread was full of people complaining about it when I was following along.
 

Andy13186

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High 10s with a good manual driver on a drag strip with drag radials , probably 740
 

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NJMike

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OP with all the negative on the Roush, why not something else like VMP, Whipple...?
 

NGOT8R

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thank you for all the responses , the summary that I get is that 600 wheel is needed, but just as equal is putting it down and driving it right.

did some research on running 10’s outside of just the power, looks the supercharger is just half the cost (using fb marketplace used part pricing)


10 Second Build:

Supercharger:

Roush stage 2 - $3,500
Tune - $700

Then you need more fuel for the power:
JMS BAP - $500
IDX1050 Injectors - $1,000

Now you need traction:
Weld 17s with Mickey Thomspon Slicks - $800
Vertical Links - $200
Subframe Bars - $300
Drag Springs ( Already have steeda pro actives ) - $300

Now you’re going to fry your stock clutch and break axles:
McCloud Twin Disc Clutch - $1000
G Force Axles - $1200
+ Probably an MT82 rebuild - $4000
As you can see, it gets expensive real quickly. Much quicker than a 10 sec. ET too, ☹. I’ve been struggling with it for quite a while now.
 

MKL_DS

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Full bolt on N/A cars run high 10s in many cases. You don’t need a ton of power at all to do it. As mentioned it’s about using the power you have. A manual complicates matters in forcing you to be a big part of the equation.

FWIW a good buddy has a 17 GT 2300 roush setup that has been 9.8x @ 141 on E.
60’s in the low 1.40s on a m/t radial.
 

HKusp

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High 10s with a good manual driver on a drag strip with drag radials , probably 740
740 can put you in the low 10's/ high 9's with the right suspension and tire pressure, assuming you can drive it reasonably well.
 

DF19RS3

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I get that the Gen 2's aren't as bad as the Gen 3's but the knock on the Roush has always been heat soak, even with the improved cooling kits, they soak on back to back runs. That Roush thread was full of people complaining about it when I was following along.
Just need a chiller system and the problem of heat soaking is gone.
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