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WHP needed to run high 10’s

HKusp

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Just need a chiller system and the problem of heat soaking is gone.
Yeah, that is a great fix. Not an easy fix, and not cheap either.
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DF19RS3

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Yeah, that is a great fix. Not an easy fix, and not cheap either.

Yeah you are right about that..It was the lesser of two expenses. Either sell the Roush for next to nothing and spend $1000's more on a different route or spend $2K and be done. I chose the $2K route with the chiller. It fits my goal for today.
 

HKusp

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Yeah you are right about that..It was the lesser of two expenses. Either sell the Roush for next to nothing and spend $1000's more on a different route or spend $2K and be done. I chose the $2K route with the chiller. It fits my goal for today.
Absolutely. Once you're in a Roush, you have to optimize what you have or bite the bullet ($$$) and go another route. If you are going from a blank slate however, I would avoid a Roush altogether and go with any of the other FI options out there, because even though the initial cost may be less, it quickly adds up when you are trying to make up for the shortcomings of the Roush to begin with.
 

DF19RS3

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Absolutely. Once you're in a Roush, you have to optimize what you have or bite the bullet ($$$) and go another route. If you are going from a blank slate however, I would avoid a Roush altogether and go with any of the other FI options out there, because even though the initial cost may be less, it quickly adds up when you are trying to make up for the shortcomings of the Roush to begin with.

Yep that is for sure. Like they say if I knew then what I know now I would of down it differently.
 

blakeman8192

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thank you for all the responses , the summary that I get is that 600 wheel is needed, but just as equal is putting it down and driving it right.

did some research on running 10’s outside of just the power, looks the supercharger is just half the cost (using fb marketplace used part pricing)


10 Second Build:

Supercharger:

Roush stage 2 - $3,500
Tune - $700

Then you need more fuel for the power:
JMS BAP - $500
IDX1050 Injectors - $1,000

Now you need traction:
Weld 17s with Mickey Thomspon Slicks - $800
Vertical Links - $200
Subframe Bars - $300
Drag Springs ( Already have steeda pro actives ) - $300

Now you’re going to fry your stock clutch and break axles:
McCloud Twin Disc Clutch - $1000
G Force Axles - $1200
+ Probably an MT82 rebuild - $4000
This is a lot more than you need to be honest.

Lethal LP52 injectors+BAP combo is $500 and will do just fine for ~650whp on pump gas. Stock clutch and transmission may not hold up forever, but will be okay for a while.

Tire matters the most. Nitto NT555RIIs tires on the rear are like $500. I went with those and my car would dead hook in 1st gear on a hot summer day with stock suspension, even before installing the Steeda stop the hop kit. I'm running a centrifugal though so my power comes on a lot more smoothly than PD.

On cold days you're never going to get 600whp+ to hook though.
 

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Andy13186

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740 can put you in the low 10's/ high 9's with the right suspension and tire pressure, assuming you can drive it reasonably well.
I honestly think 98% of people in a full weight s550 stock manual trans will not do 10s without like 740+ rwhp even on a drag strip.
 

NGOT8R

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This is a lot more than you need to be honest.

Lethal LP52 injectors+BAP combo is $500 and will do just fine for ~650whp on pump gas. Stock clutch and transmission may not hold up forever, but will be okay for a while.

Tire matters the most. Nitto NT555RIIs tires on the rear are like $500. I went with those and my car would dead hook in 1st gear on a hot summer day with stock suspension, even before installing the Steeda stop the hop kit. I'm running a centrifugal though so my power comes on a lot more smoothly than PD.

On cold days you're never going to get 600whp+ to hook though.
The 555RIIs were enough tire for you to cut a good sixty at the track? What launch method (burnout and rpm) did you use and what was your sixty, ET and mph?
 

NGOT8R

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I honestly think 98% of people in a full weight s550 stock manual trans will not do 10s without like 740+ rwhp even on a drag strip.
You might be right about that, especially with a D4 tranny and 373 gear out back. Many people seem surprised to hear that it’s so difficult to do, but I can say that after 25-30 hits at the track, it’s been no bueno for 10’s on nitrous or even mid 11’s on motor on a drag radial.
 

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I implore anyone with a power adder, who has been able to run a 10 sec. ET (with less than 740+ rwhp, which would be enough power to compensate for crappy sixties btw), or someone with less than 500 rwhp, who’s been able to run mid 11’s NA, to please step forward and educate us struggling folks on how to get it done.
 

J17GT

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I implore anyone with a power adder, who has been able to run a 10 sec. ET (with less than 740+ rwhp, which would be enough power to compensate for crappy sixties btw), or someone with less than 500 rwhp, who’s been able to run mid 11’s NA, to please step forward and educate us struggling folks on how to get it done.
<raises hand> I finally got my 10sec timeslip this year, twice! It was not as easy as I thought it would be.

2017 GT stick car with a whipple 3.0 stage 2 kit on 93 pump gas. Car put down 708rwhp when I was still running stock headers and cats with just a cat-back with the MT82. Car weighs 4120lbs with me in it! Here are the details on the car:

-3.875" pulley that came with the whipple stage 2 kit, ~11psi of boost
-Kooks headers with free flowing exhaust
-Tremec Magnum XL trans (MT82 did not live long) with a McLeod RXT clutch, Dynotech aluminum driveshaft, 4.09 gears, Gforce renegade axles
-Steeda stop the hop kit, steeda vertical links, bmr drag springs, bmr poly inserts w/ kelltrac big bertha bolts, bmr lower control arm bearings, ford performance toe link bearings
-Kelltrac spec viking crusader double adjustable rear shocks
-All stock front suspension
-Mickey Thompson ET Street R bias-ply rear tires with front skinnies.

With this setup, my recipe for the 10 sec timeslip was the following:
-set the WOT box at 4800 rpm for the launch
-15psi in the rear tires
-Rear shocks set 12C 17R
-Hint of clutch slip on the launch, 7800rpm shifts and bang the gears like I'm trying to kill it

The weather is also a big factor. Over 2000DA or so and it's like the car hits a wall and I can't seem to do better than 11.0x. The right amount of clutch slip to get the 60' where it needs to be is also challenging. Pictures of the slips below and a link to the 10.944 pass:

IMG_2643.jpg
IMG_2552.jpg
 
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NGOT8R

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<raises hand> I finally got my 10sec timeslip this year, twice! It was not as easy as I thought it would be.

2017 GT stick car with a whipple 3.0 stage 2 kit on 93 pump gas. Car put down 708rwhp when I was still running stock headers and cats with just a cat-back with the MT82. Car weighs 4120lbs with me in it! Here are the details on the car:

-3.875" pulley that came with the whipple stage 2 kit, ~11psi of boost
-Kooks headers with free flowing exhaust
-Tremec Magnum XL trans (MT82 did not live long) with a McLeod RXT clutch, Dynotech aluminum driveshaft, 4.09 gears, Gforce renegade axles
-Steeda stop the hop kit, steeda vertical links, bmr drag springs, bmr poly inserts w/ kelltrac big bertha bolts, bmr lower control arm bearings, ford performance toe link bearings
-Kelltrac spec viking crusader double adjustable rear shocks
-All stock front suspension
-Mickey Thompson ET Street R bias-ply rear tires with front skinnies.

With this setup, my recipe for the 10 sec timeslip was the following:
-set the WOT box at 4800 rpm for the launch
-15psi in the rear tires
-Rear shocks set 12C 17R
-Hint of clutch slip on the launch, 7800rpm shifts and bang the gears like I'm trying to kill it

The weather is also a big factor. Over 2000DA or so and it's like the car hits a wall and I can't seem to do better than 11.0x. The right amount of clutch slip to get the 60' where it needs to be is also challenging. Pictures of the slips below and a link to the 10.994 pass:

IMG_2643.jpg
IMG_2552.jpg
That’s awesome! Congratulations on your 10 sec. ET! I have a question about your rear shock settings. Did you make your adjustments from full loose (counterclockwise) or from full stiff?
 

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That’s awesome! Congratulations on your 10 sec. ET! I have a question about your rear shock settings. Did you make your adjustments from full loose (counterclockwise) or from full stiff?
Thanks! I made the shock adjustments starting from full loose.
 

NGOT8R

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Details on what failed in your MT82? Was if an aftermarket build? What was the best ET/MPH before switching to the Tremec?
 

J17GT

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Details on what failed in your MT82? Was if an aftermarket build? What was the best ET/MPH before switching to the Tremec?
The stock MT82 failed on my sixth pass at the track. Literally the first outing after the whipple kit went on the car. Shifted into 4th and the gear just exploded. Like I bomb went off inside the trans LOL.

At that time, I had a LPX HD clutch, QA1 carbon fiber driveshaft, renegade axles with the stock 3.73 gears. Suspension wise all I had done was the steeda stop the hop starter kit and vertical links. Everything else was stock. I think it went like 11.3x or 11.4x at 128-130 mph at that event. But it was tough with the MT82 with first gear being so short and then kissing the limiter in 4th, but it went slower if I shifted to 5th.
 

NGOT8R

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The stock MT82 failed on my sixth pass at the track. Literally the first outing after the whipple kit went on the car. Shifted into 4th and the gear just exploded. Like I bomb went off inside the trans LOL.

At that time, I had a LPX HD clutch, QA1 carbon fiber driveshaft, renegade axles with the stock 3.73 gears. Suspension wise all I had done was the steeda stop the hop starter kit and vertical links. Everything else was stock. I think it went like 11.3x or 11.4x at 128-130 mph at that event. But it was tough with the MT82 with first gear being so short and then kissing the limiter in 4th, but it went slower if I shifted to 5th.
thanks for that info. I’m always trying to educate myself on the MT82‘s capabilities. I had all of my hard parts Cryo and WPC treated and I sure hope they’ll hold up to the rigors of drag racing. I‘ve made at least 30 passes with mine so far and it seems to be holding its own for now.
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