Old rachet strap cut 6 feet or so if it off. Tie one end to the leading end of ramp. Tire will be on tie down strap material when it gets to bottom of ramp, ramp cant move,pushed forward unless the strap material breaks .
That's a great idea.
You don't want plastic, but you're ok with 4,000lbs on $500 foam ramps? Lol. I'm sure they're fine, but at $500 vs. $50 - $60 I'd take the rhino ramps all day. I have them and use them on my V8 4runner with zero issues. I also have a 4 post lift and find myself using the rhino ramps 99.9% of the time just based on how quick and simple it is verses jockeying things around to get the cars on the lift.
I drove an F150 on cheap Rhino Ramps to change oil on it (so I got under it).
DO you use the Rhino ramps on your stang without any clearance issues?
Im thinking of just jacking my car up and using the new daytona jack stands i got for my bday instead of buying ramps and calling it a day!!! I wanna install my new roush splitter and PP belly pan this weekend.
Hey Cobrajet, thanks as always for chiming in and your reply. Have you had your s550 up on the ramps without any clearance issues?
From comments and quotes within another thread, this morning I performed some training, product review and demo for Race Ramps.
The car: 2022 Mach 1, HP.
The tires: 285/35/19.
The product: https://www.raceramps.com/garage-service/ramps/race/p/rr-72-2/
Like most, I have a jack and stands. As I was getting ready for Skye, Race Ramps seemed like a good idea, that they might give me certain advantages over a jack for some things.
The Ford Mach 1 Supplement references towing and refraining from grades greater than 7% for an HP. The referenced product meets that requirement.
I purchased the ramps and stowed them. Until this morning, I'd never tried using them.
I noticed some were interested in how well they would work, so I tried them out today.
Yes, they work just fine. No issues. But do take note of the tire used above. The ramps are listed as having a width of 12" / 305mm. I most often use a 285 tire, which gives me room to spare. I also have a bit taller of a tire. While I had 1.5" / 38mm of clearance on initial entry, you might have something closer to 1" / 25 mm.
1. Put the car in a place where you want it, compensating for driving up onto the ramps. Ensure the ramps will be completely flat, on a flat surface.
2. Take one end and butt it against a tire. Using a measure, find a square point of reference and make sure the ramp is true, that it's not pointing left or right.
3. Do the same with the other ramp, using the measure to square it with the other, trued ramp.
I realize there will be some instances where you just eyeball it. You can do that. I realized while I was thinking, I could be off. Before using the steps above, while things looked "right", I checked the ramps; they were splayed outward by 1.5" / 38mm; this could have been fatal to the car.
4. Drive up. You'll notice the lip so you don't drive over. I simply drove onto them like entering a driveway. I actually used the gas a bit to "press" against the lip. Things went well. The surface is textured for traffic. No slipping.
I was left with about 18" / 457mm of clearance. No obstructions. And I can remove part of the ramp for even more space.
Yep - my prior 2016 PP and current 2018 PP S550 - both stock ride height. I just needed to place the additional cabinet liner material under the ramps because my garage floor is tiled with a very smooth surface. As I previously mentioned above, by doing that trick with that material, it helps to prevent the ramps from skipping or sliding.
100% agree. I had ramps for a while, but fack those. Jacking is easier and I can keep my eyes on all the things instead of driving semi blind and hoping they don't slide out from underneath me.
