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Oh, as I'm going through this car that was the minor messup... They welded slip-on adapters to the exhaust and put Eibach Sportlines on the car with the shocks and struts that it left the factory with. :like:

Well, previous owner of my car removed all the GT/CS badging (grrr...) and not only turned the panel on the car into a swirlfest but also somehow cracked the heck out of it along the edges in what I can only imagine was an attempt to remove it by force.

Jeez... With that attitude I'd hate to see what you get... 🤷 To keep this on topic, I just received this yesterday. Haven't had a chance to install it, yet. https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-taillight-panel-molding-2018-style-gloss-black-without-emblem/p/M16600MA/

Dude, the bumper you bought was suggested in post #4. Your reply in post #5 You insisted that you wanted to do the whole thing OEM, which is why everybody was telling you it was a bad idea and THAT would cost $10K. Now you're saying nobody helped you? 🤨

If I weren't actually driving like a normal human being at the time of both accidents I might have thought that. LOL Got some Koni STR.T shocks and struts to replace the FACTORY STOCK dampers and swapped out the Eibach Sportlines for Steeda minimum drop springs. No longer scraping on everything...

Having shocks, struts, and springs installed on my new-to-me '16 GT/CS. Gone are the days of doing it myself since my last accident in February* messed up my neck (C4-C5) worse than than the accident in March of March '22**. Hurt myself just sitting in the back seat looking under the pillar...

You need yourself some CyanLabs Syn3 Updater: https://cyanlabs.net/applications/syn3updater/ Follow the directions to a T. Read them, go through the process, and then read them twice again before committing anything by plugging the USB stick into the car.

That's probably mentioned in the troubleshooting section when you RTFM, right @RTFM? 🤣

As much as I'm not a fan of the insulation on Apple's own cables they do "just work" as long as they're not damaged.

That looks so much better than the cheap plasticy one that came as an overlay when I bought my '15. Once I realized it was just stuck on there with double-sided tape I yanked it off and tossed it right in the garbage. If there's a giant pet peeve I have with the car market is how much...

Five years isn't terrible. Due to budget reasons beyond my control I'm still rockin' a Pixel 4 as my work phone (Pixel 8 Pro is my personal). The battery is surprisingly just now starting to not hold a charge very well, but it still holds up for infrequent use since I'm generally tied to my desk...

A point of clarity, here: I'm the "senior tech guy" here in the thread but I'm also not the OP. Also, the only "3" mentioned is the generation of Sync, not the firmware version number. That's why I asked what version and build he's running, the current being 3.4 build 23188, as posted by...

It's actually also quite amazing how easily pocket lint gets into a Lightning port. I've seen many an iPhone where the cable wouldn't stay in the port and it's because there was just enough lint in the port to keep it from clicking in (there's tiny nubs on the sides). If you gently use a...

Adding extra steps in between isn't going to help troubleshoot a root cause (source: my day job is senior technician/systems administrator). If it's not working with a basic cable the adapter is likely not to work either. Which version and build of Sync3 is currently installed in your car? What...

To elaborate on @fordracerguy's post here, there's a hardware difference between the USB port that shipped with the car and the newer, CarPlay compatible port. What that is, I'm actually not sure, as I haven't looked into it, and given that I don't think Ford has released internal service...

Hey, I've been meaning to reply to this for a bit, but I met up with Zachary that Saturday and picked up the exhaust. Nice dude and awesome exhaust. THANKS!

Bump because I'm pretty sure I need new isolators and I don't want to get the car all tied up in not having everything done right with the right parts. Anybody have guidance on which are the right bits for the Steeda springs (I imagine factory stock for the GT/CS)?

So, @tj@steeda will be happy to know that I gave @beefcake some more money and got the Steeda minimum drop springs. 😂 That said... Now I need to figure out which isolators I need for the rear since apparently there's multiple variants. 🤨 And are these even actually correct? Right: FR3Z-8321-A...

Oh, I'm quite familiar with latency via a conductor, but AA and CarPlay aren't DDR5 DIMM modules running at 8000MT/s needing to be within millimeters of a CPU socket. Every foot of USB cable introduces a latency of about 1 nanosecond, or a billionth of a second, so a 10-foot cable would be...

GM is already doing their own thing and apparently it's biting them in the arse in some ways. I'm also not sure why they want that because Android Auto and CarPlay are already very well supported and honestly makes life easier for the auto manufacturers. Rolling their own systems just...