Which oil ?.

[NGOT8R]

Lots of people. There's a big thread on it.

I switched to 5w30 personally because Ford switched too for the newer cars. But for what it's worth, for normal street driving you won't see any real difference between 5w20 and 5w30. I had an oil analysis done after 5k miles of 5w20 and it came back great.

Will you please PM me your oil analysis results for the 5W20? Thanks

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[KXU_KAT]

I love this stuff for my supercharged Roush!

Sorry for the noob question, but what does K, LL and M means on the labels of this oil?
Also, I saw that Castrol does an Extended Performance variant as well, supposedly to be even longer lasting, does any use that one?

 

[Skye]

Sorry for the noob question, but what does K...mean... on the labels of this oil?

Did some digging. Attached are some links which help define the "K", "ACEA C3", "API" destinations.

It's an oil that designed for late model engines used in high performance driving and environments which could also be utilizing Gas Particulate Filters.

FWIW, for this specific oil, BMW, MB and Porsche accept its use.

Many also appreciate Euro oil blends for their chemical makeup (see oil analysis, Total Base Number, Total Acid Number). Euro oils are often designed for a longer service interval, with better TBN retention being an advantage in any application.

https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/...E2B4DA2802584A300530A99/$File/BPXE-BHLVTM.pdf

https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/Specifications/194/api-service-classifications/363

https://petroleumservicecompany.com/acea-c3-engine-oils/

https://www.chevronlubricants.com/e...ment/used-engine-oil-analysis-tbn-vs-tan.html

 

[Schuvwj]

The first time I tried this oil I noticed a huge difference when rubbing it between my fingers. Yes I understand this is not a good test
The oil in my 2017 Ford Flex with 75k miles was always dirty looking, even with less than 500 miles on it.
When I changed to this oil it looked cleaner at 4K miles on the first use!
Great stuff!

 

[engineermike]

For performance na mustangs I would recommend the Castrol 5w30 a3/b4 over the K version, if you don’t want to go to a 40.

 

[KXU_KAT]

So if I were to buy Castrol 5w30 a3/b4 and take it to my dealer here in the UK for the Bullitt will they say it’s ok?

 

[engineermike]

Probably not. They don’t think beyond the what the book says. If you’re worried about what the dealership workshop thinks then there’s really no point in even discussing this on forums.

 

[Hack]

I personally like to use what the factory recommends while the car is under warranty. Then once it's out of warranty I switch if I think it's a good idea.

I realize oil is a topic that gets people fired up, so I think I'm going to limit any additional comments.

 

[MAGS1]

I realize oil is a topic that gets people fired up, so I think I'm going to limit any additional comments.

Right? It’s the age old argument. Pennzoil was always my go-to when I did my own oil changes. Now, Motorcraft from the dealer is plenty good for me. I’d probably use Motorcraft if I did my own anyway. As long as it’s within spec, I personally don’t think it matters all that much, depending on use case.

 

[GregO]

Best place to go for oil related questions is;
“Bob is the Oil Guy”

 

[Hack]

Right? It’s the age old argument. Pennzoil was always my go-to when I did my own oil changes. Now, Motorcraft from the dealer is plenty good for me. I’d probably use Motorcraft if I did my own anyway. As long as it’s within spec, I personally don’t think it matters all that much, depending on use case.

I think you are right about just using something that's in spec. But 5w-30 vs. 5w-20 if I understand correctly the 5w-30 just has a little more resistance to getting thin at high temperatures. I don't see anything wrong with that, and I think manufacturers recommend thinner oil to get slightly better fuel economy out of the car. I definitely don't think using 5w30 instead of 5w20 will cause any functional issues, and I think it will possibly extend wear life.

I don't know about oil choice vs. phaser operations - I think the important thing for hydraulic circuits within our engines is to keep sludge out. That says to me plenty of detergent and frequent changes.

I tend to use whatever is cheap if a car is out of warranty and then I change it frequently. I think frequent changes are more important than "quality" of the oil.

 

[engineermike]

The vct phasers work fine all the way to 5w50. Otherwise, Roush and Whipple wouldn’t be able to run it. And if you think about it, 5w50 is still much thinner at 150 deg than 5w20 at 50 deg.

 

[GregO]

https://www.nmradigital.com/blog/nm...uncement-about-gen-ii-coyote-stock-engine/625

 

[JFBullitt]

I run Eneos 5W-30 in mine. A family friend owns a Japanese shop and gets it for cheap.

I'm not picky with oil brand or weight on these cars. Most synthetics are going to be fine. I doubt 20 vs 30/40/50 weight makes much difference in street situations either.

I think the Coyote sees much worse maintenance abuse across the F-150 spectrum and does fine. If it was highly stressed ie many of the turbo engines made today(or even a Voodoo or GT3 engine), I'd be more cautious.

 

[tj@steeda]

Not specific to the topic but a good guide for oil changes:

https://www.steeda.com/mustang-oil-change-guide

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