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Which Block would you Use?

Desert Dog

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Hey Guys I just Broke my 2018 GT with Edelbrock Stage 2 Supercharger System running stock Edelbrock 50 states legal Carb. Certified Tune. Think it took out the head gasket on the drivers side. Shows low compression in Cyl. 5-8, 10 psi on 5, 90 on 6, 180 on 7, 250 on 8. I haven't torn it down for inspection, so it have other issues. I reached out to Edelbrock to see about Warranty coverage. We will see how that go's. If the Block is wasted is it worth extra cost to go with the bigger bore M-6010-M52B Block? Its advertised as a beefed up casting.
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Desert Dog

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Thanks for the info. I can get the M-6010-M52B BLOCK. for $1943 with free shipping with a wholesale account I have. I have a Boss crank and some Boostline Rods, I Picked up awhile ago in anticapation of building a better motor someday. I was hoping it would be a little longer before I needed them.
What Pistons/Rings do you use with that combo?
 

olaosunt

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Thanks for the info. I can get the M-6010-M52B BLOCK. for $1943 with free shipping with a wholesale account I have. I have a Boss crank and some Boostline Rods, I Picked up awhile ago in anticapation of building a better motor someday. I was hoping it would be a little longer before I needed them.
What Pistons/Rings do you use with that combo?
As you may see I am a believer in “spares “ . Saves you downtime when the inevitable happens - sooner or later it will when you are playing with boost on a stock motor . ... but you knew that and was prepared 😎

I used the coyote /JE pistons with Boostline rods in one of the blocks I built . AP rings
I used voodoo/Mahle pistons/rings with Manley rods in the one in the car - Boss crank
 

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Doing a similar build with that block as well rather than sleeving a 5.0. @80FoxCoupe ended up having to sleeve his similar build (5.2 block) as there wasn't enough piston to wall clearance. Maybe he can tell you which pistons won't fit.
 
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Desert Dog

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What kind of clearances do you like to use for supercharged. Application? Piston and ring gaps.
 

olaosunt

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As you may see I am a believer in “spares “ . Saves you downtime when the inevitable happens - sooner or later it will when you are playing with boost on a stock motor . ... but you knew that and was prepared 😎

Fonzie used the coyote /JE pistons with Boostline rods in one of the blocks he built . AP rings
Fonzie used voodoo/Mahle pistons/rings with Manley rods in the one in the car - Boss crank
Clarification. replaced I with Fonzie
I cant build a sand castle . 😬
So have no answer for your last question 🥺
 

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80FoxCoupe

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Doing a similar build with that block as well rather than sleeving a 5.0. @80FoxCoupe ended up having to sleeve his similar build (5.2 block) as there wasn't enough piston to wall clearance. Maybe he can tell you which pistons won't fit.
The piston to wall clearance was ok for 1khp, of course i was gonna need more clearance. Since I already had the Pistons, we only alternative was to sleeve the block. Which was totally fine with me lol
 

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The Mahle 2018+ 5.0 Gen3, 2618 forged piston, pin, ring kit is ideal. No rebalancing needed. This is what I am using on my build:
https://www.us.mahle.com/media/usa/motorsports/ford-modular-coyote-gen-3-2020-web.pdf

Gapped the top ring at .019" for my blower application.
I think I or others asked the question on another forum, how is it possible to sell pistons pins and rings and NOT have to check the balance? It assumes that the piston/pin/ring you're removing has the exact same rotating mass. Which as we know isn't always a good assumption (hence the need for the builder to weigh and pair and make any required adjustments to the counter weights).

I'd be shocked if you found 8 sets of pistons and gear that weighed the same (or within the comfort level of most builders). (I'm talking about the ones on an existing motor).
 

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I think I or others asked the question on another forum, how is it possible to sell pistons pins and rings and NOT have to check the balance? It assumes that the piston/pin/ring you're removing has the exact same rotating mass. Which as we know isn't always a good assumption (hence the need for the builder to weigh and pair and make any required adjustments to the counter weights).

I'd be shocked if you found 8 sets of pistons and gear that weighed the same (or within the comfort level of most builders). (I'm talking about the ones on an existing motor).
let me know what you decide
 

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let me know what you decide
I didn't use these. As I understand it, they've been marketed as direct swap without having to rebalance (ostensibly targeting the DIY builder at home). I'm just asking the question as I still don't have a good understanding of just how that's possible/smart.
 

80FoxCoupe

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I think I or others asked the question on another forum, how is it possible to sell pistons pins and rings and NOT have to check the balance? It assumes that the piston/pin/ring you're removing has the exact same rotating mass. Which as we know isn't always a good assumption (hence the need for the builder to weigh and pair and make any required adjustments to the counter weights).

I'd be shocked if you found 8 sets of pistons and gear that weighed the same (or within the comfort level of most builders). (I'm talking about the ones on an existing motor).
Its the same concept the factory uses. There is just an acceptable tolerance when it comes to bob weight. The factory does not balance every rotating assy.
 
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Desert Dog

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That Mahle kit looks like standard 5.0 93mm bore. Do they make one for the 5.2 94mm Bore size?
I've raced and built my own motors for everything from NHRA Stock Eliminator to Super Comp, you always check weights on every component and balance the assembly as needed for the application.
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