Wheel hub bolts red threadlocker

[Walt]

I'm replacing a rear wheel hub and the stock bolts that come out don't have any kind of threadlocker applied.

The replacement bolts from Ford do have red threadlocker applied on those same bolts. I'm wondering if I should use those, won't it make it super hard to remove next time?

Since the wheel bearings are prone to fail especially when tracking, I know I'm due to replacing them again anyway.

Part number W718188S439

Sponsored

 

[Outlaw]

I'm replacing a rear wheel hub and the stock bolts that come out don't have any kind of threadlocker applied.

The replacement bolts from Ford do have red threadlocker applied on those same bolts. I'm wondering if I should use those, won't it make it super hard to remove next time?

Since the wheel bearings are prone to fail especially when tracking, I know I'm due to replacing them again anyway.

Part number W718188S439

1, buy timkin ones they aren't nearly as prone to failure as OEM which fail due to a design defect from my research
2, red locktite really isn't what people make it out to be. It's pretty damn easy to remove without heat. Adding heat makes it come out like a normal bolt.

 

[Walt]

1, buy timkin ones they aren't nearly as prone to failure as OEM which fail due to a design defect from my research
2, red locktite really isn't what people make it out to be. It's pretty damn easy to remove without heat. Adding heat makes it come out like a normal bolt.

You mean it will just loosen using a regular breaker bar? I thought that you will strip/snap bolts without applying heat to red locktite

 

[Optimum Performance]

I'm replacing a rear wheel hub and the stock bolts that come out don't have any kind of threadlocker applied.

The replacement bolts from Ford do have red threadlocker applied on those same bolts. I'm wondering if I should use those, won't it make it super hard to remove next time?

Since the wheel bearings are prone to fail especially when tracking, I know I'm due to replacing them again anyway.

Part number W718188S439

Unless someone was into your car previously, those bolts would have had thread compound on them. For replacement hubs, buy anything but Timken hubs. Ford or BCA/NTN or NSK. The hubs are not defective, they due not get pre-loaded properly or the preload falls off due to fastener torque and they 'fail'

 

[Walt]

Unless someone was into your car previously, those bolts would have had thread compound on them. For replacement hubs, buy anything but Timken hubs. Ford or BCA/NTN or NSK. The hubs are not defective, they due not get pre-loaded properly or the preload falls off due to fastener torque and they 'fail'

I haven't taken them apart yet, I noticed this in an install video but maybe they didn't apply the threadlocker previously.

I ordered Motorcraft HUB352 from rockauto which are Ford I suppose? Are those good? If there is an upgrade or better version available I'll get those next time.

(I order there if available because they have the option to prepay duty and tax for import which saves me a lot of hassle and money)

Local dealer quoted 3x the price for the part.

 

[Optimum Performance]

I haven't taken them apart yet, I noticed this in an install video but maybe they didn't apply the threadlocker previously.

I ordered Motorcraft HUB352 from rockauto which are Ford I suppose? Are those good? If there is an upgrade or better version available I'll get those next time.

(I order there if available because they have the option to prepay duty and tax for import which saves me a lot of hassle and money)

Local dealer quoted 3x the price for the part.

Yes Motorcraft is the Ford Part. You need new Axle Nuts. The torque, or lack of is 100% cause of hub failures in these cars.

 

[Walt]

Yes Motorcraft is the Ford Part. You need new Axle Nuts. The torque, or lack of is 100% cause of hub failures in these cars.

I did check if the nut was loose, I set my torque wrench to slightly higher than 100 ft-lbs and it clicked without moving when tightening. I didn't account for the 45° turn but atleast it wasn't "looser" than that.

I don't have a lot of street miles but I have done ~10 road course trackdays so I guess it was bound to happen eventually.

I noticed that under hard braking on the track my rear end moves to the left and there was also uneven brake pad wear on my pads.

After doing the wheel bearing shake test it is clear to me that they are shot. Hopefully it fixes the rear end wobble.

 

[luc]

Ford reddish thread locker is not the same than the regular red that you can buy
It’s more akin to the blue
As long that the axle nut stay torqued, you will have no issue with the hub
I use a thin jam nut to lock that nut in place
Also do a a telltale paint mark
I run 305 Nt01 so a lot of load on the hub and never had an issue

 

[Walt]

Ford reddish thread locker is not the same than the regular red that you can buy
It’s more akin to the blue
As long that the axle nut stay torqued, you will have no issue with the hub
I use a thin jam nut to lock that nut in place
Also do a a telltale paint mark
I run 305 Nt01 so a lot of load on the hub and never had an issue

I will definitely mark the nuts from now on. But as far as I could tell the one with the broken bearing is still tight.

You recon it loosened a slight bit? Or just a bad bearing to begin with?

What torque do you use for the rear axle nuts? The factory spec of 98 ft lb + 45° turn?

 

[GTP]

I will definitely mark the nuts from now on. But as far as I could tell the one with the broken bearing is still tight.

You recon it loosened a slight bit? Or just a bad bearing to begin with?

What torque do you use for the rear axle nuts? The factory spec of 98 ft lb + 45° turn?

As hard as I can pull on a 25" breaker bar and floor jack handle as a cheater pipe with 32mm 6-point 1/2" socket. Same method confirmed by a Ford tech, lol.

 

[Optimum Performance]

I will definitely mark the nuts from now on. But as far as I could tell the one with the broken bearing is still tight.

You recon it loosened a slight bit? Or just a bad bearing to begin with?

What torque do you use for the rear axle nuts? The factory spec of 98 ft lb + 45° turn?

45° is the spec, I've done 90° still OEM hubs from 2015. Not a suggestion, just that after 8 years the OEM hubs are still good.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Ford and “Ford Motorcraft” doesn’t manufacturer their own parts such as the wheel hubs. It’s manufactured by a vendor who won the contract to supply Ford with the parts designed to Ford’s specs and branded under the Ford, Ford Motorcraft or Ford Performance (now Ford Racing) name.

There’s been tons of documented S550 hub bearing (front and rear) failures on here since 2015 and through the 2023’s, S550’s with very low mileage (under 10k) as well as those that have had the wheel hubs replaced under warranty with “Ford” hubs, where those hubs have also later failed, and there’s been S550 owners who have had to replace their replaced “Ford” hubs 2 and 3x as well.

I wouldn’t replace a Ford hub with another Ford hub… whoever the vendor is there’s either inferior parts floating around or the parts supplied are not mechanically sound if failing in such mass quantities or failing so prematurely before the expected life span of needing replacement.

Tons of threads on here about it…

 

[Walt]

Ford and “Ford Motorcraft” doesn’t manufacturer their own parts such as the wheel hubs. It’s manufactured by a vendor who won the contract to supply Ford with the parts designed to Ford’s specs and branded under the Ford, Ford Motorcraft or Ford Performance (now Ford Racing) name.

There’s been tons of documented S550 hub bearing (front and rear) failures on here since 2015 and through the 2023’s, S550’s with very low mileage (under 10k) as well as those that have had the wheel hubs replaced under warranty with “Ford” hubs, where those hubs have also later failed, and there’s been S550 owners who have had to replace their replaced “Ford” hubs 2 and 3x as well.

I wouldn’t replace a Ford hub with another Ford hub… whoever the vendor is there’s either inferior parts floating around or the parts supplied are not mechanically sound if failing in such mass quantities or failing so prematurely before the expected life span of needing replacement.

Tons of threads on here about it…

What brand would you recommend to replace it with then? I feel like choosing between pestilence and plague here.

 

[sk47]

Hello; I do not have advice on the hubs. There is out an orange threadlocker. Advertised to hold like the red but able to be removed with tools. I have some but have not tried to remove a treated bolt as yet.

I am curious about the hubs as it may relate to the F-150 truck. Helped my brother replace the front hubs on a 2007 F-150. The hub, rotor and wheel bearings all being one unit. We broke 1/2 inch power handles trying to get the 36mm nuts off. Had to get 3/4 inch power handle & socket, but still had to use along cheeter pipe.
I pressed the old beraings out of the old hubs just to see how they were put together. I see why the bearings cannot be reused as had to press on the inner race to get the bearing out.
Was the first time working with such a hub. Unless there is a benefit I am not aware of, the older style hubs were a better way.

 

[luc]

Ford and “Ford Motorcraft” doesn’t manufacturer their own parts such as the wheel hubs. It’s manufactured by a vendor who won the contract to supply Ford with the parts designed to Ford’s specs and branded under the Ford, Ford Motorcraft or Ford Performance (now Ford Racing) name.

There’s been tons of documented S550 hub bearing (front and rear) failures on here since 2015 and through the 2023’s, S550’s with very low mileage (under 10k) as well as those that have had the wheel hubs replaced under warranty with “Ford” hubs, where those hubs have also later failed, and there’s been S550 owners who have had to replace their replaced “Ford” hubs 2 and 3x as well.

I wouldn’t replace a Ford hub with another Ford hub… whoever the vendor is there’s either inferior parts floating around or the parts supplied are not mechanically sound if failing in such mass quantities or failing so prematurely before the expected life span of needing replacement.

Tons of threads on here about it…

No doubts that a lot of rear hubs failed
Mostly driver side
The question is why did they fail ?
On my 17 it was because the nut got loose
I replaced both rear hubs with ford performance extended studs hubs and with the correct torque and jam nuts, had no issues for the past 5 years of tracking the car with 305 nt01

Sponsored