2015 GT PP Rear Wheel Hub Bearing/Assembly

[Braski]

One of mine went bad a 10k miles, it was covered under warranty. It's easy to diagnose, Jack up the side thats making noise and grab your wheel with both hands and try to wiggle it. If it wiggles, it's bad.

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[cop on my back]

One of mine went bad a 10k miles, it was covered under warranty. It's easy to diagnose, Jack up the side thats making noise and grab your wheel with both hands and try to wiggle it. If it wiggles, it's bad.

That is my plan. I don't drive the car much, it is just sitting in my shop. Too many other things taking my time, but I will get to it soon.

 

[cop on my back]

Got the rear up on a jack and both rear wheels are tight, I cannot get any movement what so ever. Back to drawing board.

 

[kent0464]

Unfortunately, no. There have been a lot of bearing failures associated with the 2015-2016 rear axle nuts.

Unfortunately it’s not just 2015-16, my 17 did it also at 1734 miles. I thought the bearing had gone bad, but when I took it in to my shop and actually took it apart and looked it was just that the axle nut had backed off. Doing a quick online search told me this is a common problem, most the time it’s the drivers side rear but often both sides.
Ford, for what ever reason neglected to put a positive mechanical stop to prevent the axle nut from backing off, every other car/truck in the world has either a cotter key or notch that the edge of the nut gets dented in to prevent what we’re experiencing.
It’s something that I have added to my maintenance list, I retighten it every 500 or so miles now to prevent the bearing from failing.

 

[BmacIL]

Unfortunately it’s not just 2015-16, my 17 did it also at 1734 miles. I thought the bearing had gone bad, but when I took it in to my shop and actually took it apart and looked it was just that the axle nut had backed off. Doing a quick online search told me this is a common problem, most the time it’s the drivers side rear but often both sides.
Ford, for what ever reason neglected to put a positive mechanical stop to prevent the axle nut from backing off, every other car/truck in the world has either a cotter key or notch that the edge of the nut gets dented in to prevent what we’re experiencing.
It’s something that I have added to my maintenance list, I retighten it every 500 or so miles now to prevent the bearing from failing.

I've replaced mine, torqued to 150 + 1/8th turn w/ red loctite. No issues for about 2000 miles so far.

 

[squid678]

NO shit, mine did the same thing on the track recently. I wonder if mine are bad. I know I have a clunk in the rear every once in a while and I can't for the life of me track it down. Replaced a lot of parts to find it but still there. Sounds like I have a Winter project.

Have the dealer take a look at it. I rather have them pay for the parts and installation.

 

[Caballito]

I just did mine myself a few weeks ago. I'm not aware of anything that's a real upgrade. I replaced with another Motorcraft one from Rockauto.

how do u know if its your bearing that going bad or that s bad? I have a loud whaling type sound at 60 and gets louder from there it not grinding its more go a loud humming sound... thanx

 

[Caballito]

Just get a new Ford unit. If the other one isn’t bad yet, I wouldn’t replace it since there is no real time or money savings for doing both. Check your brake pad wear while you’re in there.

I’ve replaced 3 rear hubs so far in 50k miles, but my car sees road courses and high G autox pretty regularly and I have more offset than stock. I’m on my 6th set of race tires, so the hubs get used hard.

hi, how can do u know if its the bearings? I have a whaling sound at 60 mph and gets louder the faster I go its not a grinding sound.

 

[vpec13]

hi, how can do u know if its the bearings? I have a whaling sound at 60 mph and gets louder the faster I go its not a grinding sound.

Mine didn't really make a noise.. just handled like absolute garbage at high speeds, and by garbage I mean in excess of 70 I thought I was going to die.

 

[Caballito]

Mine didn't really make a noise.. just handled like absolute garbage at high speeds, and by garbage I mean in excess of 70 I thought I was going to die.

anyway to test them to see if it them maybe lacking the car up and doing something?

 

[vpec13]

anyway to test them to see if it them maybe lacking the car up and doing something?

Yep! Jacked the car up and I could push on the wheel and it would move around, that's how i know the wheel bearing was bad.

 

[Caballito]

Yep! Jacked the car up and I could push on the wheel and it would move around, that's how i know the wheel bearing was bad.

ohh ok I will try that cuz I think that's what it is

 

[thornclaw]

I've replaced mine, torqued to 150 + 1/8th turn w/ red loctite. No issues for about 2000 miles so far.

the videos suggest that you have to remove the lower and upper control arm to spindle bolts in order to reach the hub assembly bolts. can this job be done without removing those bolts? ie only removing the brake caliper?

 

[moffetts]

No. You don’t have to remove the spindle from the car entirely, but you have to get pretty close. Even if you could reach the bolts just by removing the brake caliper (which you can’t) you won’t be able to remove the hub because the half shaft is going through it.

 

[Dana Pants]

No. You don’t have to remove the spindle from the car entirely, but you have to get pretty close. Even if you could reach the bolts just by removing the brake caliper (which you can’t) you won’t be able to remove the hub because the half shaft is going through it.

I did a rear wheel bearing by only removing the caliper and rotor. A good selection of 3/8” sockets and extensions can remove the 4 bolts holding the bearing on.

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