What's In DFB's Cabinet?

[Evolvd]

I've watched alot of videos but most seem to directly constradict each other which makes it hard to know what's good and what's not. 1 video will sya wash in straight lines while one says circles. It's also seems to be 50/50 in weather the people making videos think grit guard even worth buying or using. It's easier to ask here and ask people who do this stuff than watch a YouTube video where you know atleast one company has sponsored them and then the affiliate links and B's so instead of good things being mentioned it's just stuff they want to sell you to make money.

As for dragging the towel, how does that spread out the drying aid? Or do I need to mist 100% of each panel with drying aid, drag the towel and then come back and buff it off with a microfiber. And when I buff it off stick to straight lines or do circles? Circles seems to work better but I can do straight lines or semi straight arcs. Probably going to do circles for the rims since I'll just go along the outside edge of the rims which is a circle

Here’s some trustworthy YouTubeers for good info on car wash techniques: DIY Detail (probably the most how-tos), ImJoshV, Fine Detailing, Pan the Organizer…and there’s more. Their how-tos don’t involve trying to sell you on a product even if they make or sell some. DIY Detail has a metric ton of how-tos and very rarely do they ever tell you which product to buy, just which type to use.

If I’m towel drying I mist the panel and the towel. If I blow dry it I mist the panel and the towel. Then follow up with a high-pile towel buff. Straight lines. Circles is less efficient as you cover the same areas multiple times. Do one panel at a time and you’ll know where you’ve sprayed and where you’ve buffed.

Sponsored

 

[skinnyb]

I find Bruce's Garage helpful. He gets lots of products from manufacturers to try, but doesn't seem to push any one particular product. I like Charleston Detail, and I like Vermijl Car Detail as well. He does ASMR style, no talking just the noise of the equipment and the products he highlights with sub titles and close up shots... Armour Detail Supply has a youtube channel too, their videos are top notch. And one of the best is Car Craft Auto Detailing, he is the GOAT in my opinion, very consise info and very good at what he does.

 

[MAGS1]

The name of the channel now is Detailing by Apex (used to be Apex Auto Detailing, which Brian turned into an auction car reconditioning channel as he’s semi-retired from detailing now). Brian is really good, his old videos test a lot of different products including polishers, pads and the chemicals themselves. Good instructions on how to do all that stuff too. He’s in the Philly area

https://youtube.com/@detailingbyapex?si=LQsAd2mRaye155Fq

 

[skinnyb]

The name of the channel now is Detailing by Apex (used to be Apex Auto Detailing, which Brian turned into an auction car reconditioning channel as he’s semi-retired from detailing now). Brian is really good, his old videos test a lot of different products including polishers, pads and the chemicals themselves. Good instructions on how to do all that stuff too. He’s in the Philly area

https://youtube.com/@detailingbyapex?si=LQsAd2mRaye155Fq

Agreed, Brian is awesome, very knowledgeable and no nonsense kind of guy. I appreciate that over all the fluff lots of youtubers do that go for ratings(ie Pan the Advertiser, etc, etc... )

 

[DFB5.0]

Another empty gallon.........................

Traditional quick detailers like this are no longer a go-to for many, but I still think they have a place. I'd say with the proliferation of rinse-less wash concentrates, most simply mix those up at a quick detailer dilution rather than buying a specific product.

I used Last Touch and Final Inspection as my only drying aids for many years, of which they did exactly what they say on the bottle. In many cases, these products are much easier to use with less streaking potential. For a while there, I was also using Megs Final Inspection as my clay lubricant as its considered a residue free product.

I've since replaced Final Inspection with either Carpro or Gyeon clay lubricants, and P&S Paint Gloss has replaced Last Touch.

 

[lo-fi]

In many cases, these products are much easier to use with less streaking potential.

This is why I continue to use them as my day in day out go to.

 

[DFB5.0]

Out and about.....................

 

[skinnyb]

SOOOO satisfying seeing Carpro Reset putting in the work. My good friend brought his Cali Special by for a bath earlier last week after going to Mustang Week with us. He decided to get a video of me laying down some foam... Not too thick, not too thin. The Active foam canon is really satisfying to use with the Active 2.0 pressure washer and Kobrajet hose..

I even did my daily driver yesterday with Gyeon Bathe, same dilution and it works fantastic as well. It needed some love after getting new tires. Love how both Reset and Bathe have those little persistent secondary bubbles when rinsing. And then I did a good Stoners Tarminator wipe down of the tires (Michelin Defender 2), then reached in the cabinet for a dressing I haven't used in over a year. NV Onyx was really nice to use and smells great.

 

[DFB5.0]

SOOOO satisfying seeing Carpro Reset putting in the work. My good friend brought his Cali Special by for a bath earlier last week after going to Mustang Week with us. He decided to get a video of me laying down some foam... Not too thick, not too thin. The Active foam canon is really satisfying to use with the Active 2.0 pressure washer and Kobrajet hose..

I even did my daily driver yesterday with Gyeon Bathe, same dilution and it works fantastic as well. It needed some love after getting new tires. Love how both Reset and Bathe have those little persistent secondary bubbles when rinsing. And then I did a good Stoners Tarminator wipe down of the tires (Michelin Defender 2), then reached in the cabinet for a dressing I haven't used in over a year. NV Onyx was really nice to use and smells great.

Carpro Reset, still my benchmark maintenance soap.

Onyx is so underrated, the scent lingers in the garage for hours afterwards, so nice.

 

[skinnyb]

Carpro Reset, still my benchmark maintenance soap.

Onyx is so underrated, the scent lingers in the garage for hours afterwards, so nice.

I do like Onyx, its application is a bit different than the really runny ones I use normally (ie Perl 1:1, Ghost, PSS) but it does lay down smooth and blends in really nice. And I agree, Reset is the GOAT, after buying liter after liter, I finally broke down and bought a gallon the last time....

 

[DFB5.0]

2024 Ranger Wildtrak Detail -

This 2024 Ranger Wildtrak with the 3.0 Powerstroke Diesel V6 was in today for its first major detail since it was purchased last year. Finished in Aluminium Silver, it and also has the $2100 Premium Pack with includes the following -

- Auxiliary 6 Switch Pack
- Premium Matrix LED Headlamp and Tail lamp pack
- Bang & Olufsen Premium Audio System
- Cargo Management System

For anyone buying a Ranger, please please please include the Ford 3D rubber floor mat set in the deal. They make a massive difference in keeping your carpets clean, mainly preventing grass and sand from becoming embedded in the fibres. Carpet mats are completely useless for this sort of vehicle, or any daily driver really. I can also highly recommend the TruFit 3D branded mats as well.

Genuine Ford All Weather Rubber Floor Mats For Ranger & More
TruFit 3D Mats

Exterior Detail –

Wheels & Tyres -

While I sorted out my buckets and tools, I started off by liberally applying NV Purge to all four wheels. After a few minutes, I went in with Bilt Hamber Touch-less, foaming over the top of Purge and allowed to further soak. After rinsing all four wheels, I then went back with Wise Guy for the tyres, then foamed the wheels with Brake Buster for the contact washing. As I moved around the car, I also scrubbed the black plastic wheel arch flairs and side steps.

Pre-treatment & Decontamination -

From dry, the whole car was sprayed down with iron remover. Today I finally managed to use up the last of a 4-litre bottle of Gyeon Iron, which while effective, was absolutely putrid to use. Switching over to NV Purify has been a long time coming, I much prefer these NV iron removers as they do not stink anywhere near as badly, while remaining highly effective. I hear the latest Gyeon Iron Redefined has addressed the stench complaint, but the NV product is considerably cheaper. Another benefit of NV Purify is that it also contains surfactants to break down traffic film.

As usual, an alkaline pre-wash soap was foamed right over the top of the iron remover. At the moment, I’m really liking KCx Active Foam, mainly because its less aggressive as Touch-less, smells better, and cleans nearly as well. After further dwell time, the car was given a very thorough rinse.

While the soap was doing its thing, I made use of that time by giving the engine bay a quick refresh. Nothing drastic was needed, just some accumulated dust and debris caught at the base of the windscreen. So, it too was treated with Active Foam, then rinsed. A healthy dose of Hyper Dressing, a quick blow and the job was done. Oh, and I also filled the empty windscreen washer fluid reservoir, it’s the little details that matter sometimes.

To finish the pre wash treatments, I vacuumed, foamed and then rinsed out the tub. Yes, I vacuumed, it was full of particle board chips and sawdust, vacuuming is less messy than turning all that into an abrasive slurry.

Contact Wash -

For this step, I foamed with Carpro Descale, then used a microfiber wash pad for the contact washing. Afterwards, a very thorough rinse, including flushing out the lower door jambs.

At this point, I had some very stubborn bee droppings on the hood, roof and aluminium roller tonneau cover. While bee deposits are almost always harder to remove than you’d think, typically an alkaline or acidic soap will lift them away. Not here though, they’d clearly been on the car for some time. First, I tried a clay mitt to luck, then progressed to KCx TEA tar remover, still no luck. In the end, I had to get out the sledgehammer, KCx Eulex. Thankfully, this took care of the issue. Important to note, you need to be mindful of using Eulex on small sections as it has a very high evaporation rate and you don't want it drying on the paint, I also like to flush the area with water afterwards.

From here, the whole vehicle got a dose of Carpro Hydr02, including the wheels and wheel arches.

Drying & Paint Protection -

After a blow down with the EGO, I went around and polished out a couple of minor scrapes on the front fender and rear door. It was then time for a heavy application of NV Boost v2. Other than the Hydr02 I had just applied, the vehicle had absolutely nothing on the paint, hence the heavy application.

Spray sealants like this have somehow become drying aids over the last few years. When used like that, typically one to two sprays per panel is used. Thing is, that is nowhere near enough to provide durable “protection”, which then leads to people complaining about a lack of longevity. This is something I’ve noticed with multiple products like Boost, and Bead Maker in particular, people use it sparingly as a drying aid, then bash the product for not doing what they had unrealistically expected.

From here, I cleaned and dried the door jambs with ECH20 at the waterless rate.

Interior Detail –

I actually started the interior before starting on the wheels. This involved removal of the carpet mats and opening all of the doors. With the car in the driveway, I grabbed the air line and my Tornador, then blasted as much dust and debris from the interior as possible. The same was done on the carpet mats. This process is incredibly effective at removing debris from hard to reach places or areas that resist vacuuming, think seat seams, between the seat and console, door trim crevices, air vents ect. Doing this BEFORE cleaning the exterior limits that dust being deposited onto the freshly cleaned exterior.

As with any neglected interior, it’s the vacuuming that eats up most of the time. And it doesn’t really matter how stout your vac is, removing sand, mud, pet hair and grass from carpet is always a tedious and time-consuming task. On this carpet, I found using Paint Gloss as a vacuum aid noticeably improved the situation.

15-hours later, it was time for the cleaning. Starting with the leather, I used Pol Star on the Carpro InnerScrub mitt. Once dry, NV Nourish was applied.

By the way, that mitt should be white…………………….

The rest of the interior wasn’t that bad, so I switched to P&S Swift for a general wipe down. I like Swift because not only does it clean, it leaves behind a subtle dressing, combining two steps into one. I also cleaned the pedals while I was at it.

The glass however was appalling, covered in a hazy film and greasy fingerprints. This is one of those occasions where a simply wipe down wasn’t going to cut it. The first “mow down” was done using Angelwax Vision, sprayed into the towel and not directly as this is the nuke of glass cleaners. With the funk removed, I went back in with Invisible Glass and a fresh set of towels to deliver a streak free result.

Finishing the interior, the floor mats were reinstalled, then a misting of KCx Fresh Up.

Finishing Touches –

For the exterior glass, I ended up having to polish the front windscreen due to an accumulation of water spots and etchings. For this, P&S Clarity Crème was used by hand with foam polishing puck. The glass was then cleaned using the ceramic version of Invisible Glass.

Next, the wheels were wiped down with Bead Maker, the tyres dressed with Capro Perl. The black plastic wheel arch flairs, mud flaps, side steps and rear number plate trims were dressed using Mother’s Naturally Black (aerosol). I only use that product when I want a quick and easy lift without creating mess. Finishing things off, I gave the paint a final wipe down using P&S Clean Maker.

The Ming Mole Strikes Again -

The owner of this vehicle is a family friend, in fact I nearly did a cabinetry apprenticeship with him back in the early 2000’s. When he bought the car, he was upsold on a ceramic coating and window tint package for $2000. I was made aware of this after I’d returned to vehicle. I mention this because, 1000%, there was no ceramic coating on this car, and if there was, it only lasted less than 12-months.

Even before I started contact washing with a strip soap, the water behaviour was completely flat. After the wash, it remained completely flat. I say that because sometimes you can revive a coating after a decon wash, but not here. The thing is, even if a vehicle is neglected for say 9 – 12 months, a coating will still exhibit some hydrophobic qualities. But on this car, the paint was dead flat.

The owner mentioned that he didn’t really notice anything different with or without the “coating”, which is when I made him aware that there was no chance a coating was still on the vehicle. No doubt something was applied by the dealer, but it was probably just a “ceramic” spray sealant and not a proper ceramic coating. Which makes me angry because these stupid dealership Ming Moles are fleecing uneducated customers under the pretence of guilt. In fact, the very same Ming Mole pulled that stunt when the owner was buying another (black) car for his wife, along the lines of “are you really going to buy a black car for your wife and not keep it protected?”. Insult guilt trip 101. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, car dealerships are their own worst enemy.

Anyway, this Ranger was returned to the customer looking “better than it did when it was brand new”. And that’s a reflection of both my skill, and the dealers lack of integrity.

Final Thoughts -

I did a pickup and return with this vehicle. I mention this because it’s the first time I’ve driven a Ranger with the Powerstroke V6. And what a lovely engine it is! There is a layer of creamy refinement that is missing from the 4-cylinder diesel engines, be that the Ford 2.0 Bi-Turbo, or any of its competitors. Also, there is this thing called throttle response, as in you flex your ankle and the engine smoothly responds in a linear and progressive manner. And I’m not talking about “performance” here, I’m referencing drivability. And then there is that lovely smooth waft factor, which reminds me of the diesel Territory that used the older 2.7-litre version of this engine. The V6 is one of the key reasons why the Ranger and Everest have become segment leaders in the sales race, no other competitor has an answer for this powertrain.

The in Bi-Turbo in comparison needs to be stabbed in the guts to respond, almost like its got a giant torque converter mixed with throttle and turbo lag. This makes the vehicle feel super sluggish, which in turn affects smooth drivability. Nor can the Bi-Turbo match the V6’s smooth sound, instead you get the typical diesel 4-cylinder clatter and vibration.

If you are looking at a Ranger or Everest, where available, you’d be bonkers to settle for the 2.0 Bi-Turbo engine instead of the Powerstroke. Worth every penny, simple as that!

 

[DFB5.0]

Both Falcon's uncovered for the first time in a while! The Mustang was washed and covered, swapping places up front with the XR6. The XR8 got out this morning to blow out the cobwebs, some fresh V-Power in the tank, and a few cheeky courtesy revs!

 

[MAGS1]

New product alert. Also, Armour Detail Supply is the brand of the week on The Rag Company’s site. Spend $75 and you get a free pink M22 towel

https://armourdetailsupply.com/coll...F1M2UqRg3OdxsumY4OI7I5h-zRwXOPWoTnybPM.YcSwPG

 

[MAGS1]

Also, any recommendations for a pressure washer hose that won’t twist into a pretzel when dragging it around the car? I have an Uberflex hose currently and it doesn’t kink (which I like) but will also twist up itself pretty easily. Any suggestions or is that just the nature of these things when they’re under pressure?

 

[Evolvd]

Also, any recommendations for a pressure washer hose that won’t twist into a pretzel when dragging it around the car? I have an Uberflex hose currently and it doesn’t kink (which I like) but will also twist up itself pretty easily. Any suggestions or is that just the nature of these things when they’re under pressure?

I use the Kobrajet hose and it’s not bad. I have to flip my swivel once or twice if it creates a smaller loop but it never kinks. The swivel on the gun makes all the difference.

Sponsored