What needs upgraded

[Warship2k15]

Ok I am thinking about buying a new mustang get with the Roush kit on it.
Lebanon Ford or any other one that offers a good deal on this package.
What would need upgraded if someone hypothetically added some drag radials.

Would the trans live at these levels?What about the Rearend and half shafts?
Driveshaft going to be ok??
What times would someone be able to run??
This would be my first mustang since the 80s so any advice would be helpful.

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[Warship2k15]

Ok I am thinking about buying a new mustang get with the Roush kit on it.
Lebanon Ford or any other one that offers a good deal on this package.
What would need upgraded if someone hypothetically added some drag radials.

Would the trans live at these levels?What about the Rearend and half shafts?
Driveshaft going to be ok??
What times would someone be able to run??
This would be my first mustang since the 80s so any advice would be helpful.

Ok I am thinking about buying a new mustang get with the Roush kit on it.
Lebanon Ford or any other one that offers a good deal on this package.
What would need upgraded if someone hypothetically added some drag radials.

Would the trans live at these levels?What about the Rearend and half shafts?
Driveshaft going to be ok??
What times would someone be able to run??
This would be my first mustang since the 80s so any advice would be helpful.

I guess I should be more specific it’s the Roush 750 hp supercharger kit.

 

[EFI]

Would the trans live at these levels?What about the Rearend and half shafts?
Driveshaft going to be ok??
What times would someone be able to run??
This would be my first mustang since the 80s so any advice would be helpful.

Depends on how you launch it. If you slip the clutch and launch relatively normally, the trans and rear end should fine fine, the weakest link being the half shafts. Drop the clutch at 5000rpm and neither of those will last long.

The times depends on how you launch and shift, anywhere from mid 12s to mid 10s.

 

[Warship2k15]

Depends on how you launch it. If you slip the clutch and launch relatively normally, the trans and rear end should fine fine, the weakest link being the half shafts. Drop the clutch at 5000rpm and neither of those will last long.

The times depends on how you launch and shift, anywhere from mid 12s to mid 10s.

Ok I guess I left out some info.
It would be an automatic transmission.

 

[EFI]

Ok I guess I left out some info.
It would be an automatic transmission.

Still depends on how you launch it that will dictate how long things will last. I would at the very least do halfshafts if you want to use the car to its potential, the rest should be ok.

 

[NGOT8R]

Ok I am thinking about buying a new mustang get with the Roush kit on it.
Lebanon Ford or any other one that offers a good deal on this package.
What would need upgraded if someone hypothetically added some drag radials.

Would the trans live at these levels?What about the Rearend and half shafts?
Driveshaft going to be ok??
What times would someone be able to run??
This would be my first mustang since the 80s so any advice would be helpful.

Manual or auto? The consensus is bias ply for a manual tranny and drag radial for an auto tranny. I’ve read that the factory driveshaft has held up well in cars making north of 800 rwhp. Half shafts are very good insurance. At that power level, I’m guessing you’d run low 10’s in the 1/4. I have a friend who has an Edelbrock supercharged ‘19 GT making 880 rwhp and he’s gone 9.80’s at 139-140 mph. He has an auto tranny.

 

[Warship2k15]

Manual or auto? The consensus is bias ply for a manual tranny and drag radial for an auto tranny. I’ve read that the factory driveshaft has held up well in cars making north of 800 rwhp. Half shafts are very good insurance. At that power level, I’m guessing you’d run low 10’s in the 1/4. I have a friend who has an Edelbrock supercharged ‘19 GT making 880 rwhp and he’s gone 9.80’s at 139-140 mph. He has an auto tranny.

Thanks for the response
It’s an automatic.
Also what half shafts are you recommending??

 

[NGOT8R]

Thanks for the response
It’s an automatic.
Also what half shafts are you recommending??

I’ll be going with G-Force. That’s what my friend runs in his car, along with their driveshaft. There seem to be way too many horror stories about DSS half shaft failures and them taking weeks upon weeks to perform warranty work. It appears that G-Force has got their act together.

 

[vanquishvzla]

if you are buying new, with factory from the dealership, launch and shit like you hate it! if it breaks.... warranty!

 

[Zelek]

I went over this same thing when I bought the On3 single turbo kit:

Must haves:
Clutch (Manual only)
Fuel System (BAP can be used but I like my fuel pumps to live)
OPG/CS (debatable but insurance is nice)
Tires
Suspension

Can live without:
Half shafts (Unless you're hard launching all the time)
Driveshaft
Transmission upgrades (Unless above 700-750+ whp)

 

[NGOT8R]

I went over this same thing when I bought the On3 single turbo kit:

Must haves:
Clutch (Manual only)
Fuel System (BAP can be used but I like my fuel pumps to live)
OPG/CS (debatable but insurance is nice)
Tires
Suspension

Can live without:
Half shafts (Unless you're hard launching all the time)
Driveshaft
Transmission upgrades (Unless above 700-750+ whp)

I like these lists and how they’re broken down. May I ask a question about BAP? You say they can be used, but you like your pumps to live. Are you suggesting that a BAP (one that increases voltage all of the time)may cause early pump failure? What about one that ramps up voltage beginning only at 50% throttle and continually increases in voltage until 75% throttle, where it then reaches the max set voltage of either 18V or 22V?

 

[Zelek]

I like these lists and how they’re broken down. May I ask a question about BAP? You say they can be used, but you like your pumps to live. Are you suggesting that a BAP (one that increases voltage all of the time)may cause early pump failure? What about one that ramps up voltage beginning only at 50% throttle and continually increases in voltage until 75% throttle, where it then reaches the max set voltage of either 18V or 22V?

Anything that increases the amps to the fuel pump like the VMP BAP for example can cause more wear on your fuel pump because it's always running. Something like the JMS BAP can prolong it based on what you're mentioning above with voltage based on throttle.

The Rodeheaver's fuel system I'm putting in does exactly that. It runs at stock levels and when you mash the throttle, the pumps get the extra juice they need. Remains very OEM with the connections and GT350 pumps. While cruising the pumps remain at stock voltage. Many fuel systems keep these pumps running with extra power all of the time and that's why you see pump failures. Some of these cars also need the pumps running full time to keep up. There's going to be trade offs no matter what way you look at it.

 

[Soulja4187]

Besides the half shafts I would also recommend the oil pump gears and then stiffen the rear so your wheel hops don't destroy your differential.

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